4A-GE + Individual thotlle bodyes
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10-28-2004, 11:53 AM
Post: #4
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Ok Zax,
The modification you are describing is not a small one. I would never attempt it if I didn't have acces to a steady state dynometer. Steady state means that the dyno can keep the engine at a constant rev number, while you modify throttle settings and tuning. The standard dynojet dyno's that every shop seems to have are useless for tuning. They can only simulate transient behaviour. the trouble starts in steady state operation like cruising. The engine starts to heat soak and do strange things. Second. These kind of cams and daily commuting do not go well together. If you ever get into a traffic jam you will know what I mean. Idle quality etc will be hard to get back to OEM quality. With all this said...it would be one hell of a little screamer and blast around the track. To answer some questions: Quote:How does the cam lift afects the manner of engine? What's the differenc btw 288 7.9mm lift cam and 288 8.5mm lift camSee above Quote:Valve springs, do we need whole set (shims + buckets), or are the only springs enough? I know about the yaris bucket "hack", but what kind of buckets to order? You have to set the valve lash of the engine (distance between bucket and cam). The only way to know the correct buckets to order is by measuring this lash with a feeler gauge. I think that there was a conversion method to determine which buckets were equivalent to which shims. Quote:ITB's, what make? Best power can be expected by running a LARGE plenum over the ITB inlets, feed it via a cold air inlet. You will need the individual runner throttle bodies, some sort of throttle linkage, a new fuel rail and regulator, some sort of vacuum collector for the map signal (beercan wil do fine or if you go with the plenum, then you don't need anything) and most importantly, an ecu that is capable of running MAP/TPS Blended fuel en spark curves. The biggest problem with the big cams and IRTB's is getting a map signal at idle. usually this is very week. Using some sort of MAP/TPS blend can sort some of the issues with this signal as well as some of the MAP issues on acceleration. Quote:Injectors If the stock injectors are 185cc/[email protected]/mm2 then there isn't that much potential left in them. I hear people using them up to 160bhp but you would be hitting 100% duty cycle and the sloppy fuel delivery that goes with that. @80% duty cycle the injectors@stock pressure are good for 132hp. Upping the fuel pressure to 4.7kg/mm2 should be enough, but I'm unsure whether the stock fuel pump kan handle it. I would suggest using the high comp 4A-GE 235cc/min injectors at 3.9kg/mm fuel pressure. That way you have plenty of room left should you ever decide to shoot for more hp. So you'd need a fuel pressure regulator too, add it to your list. @stock pressure and 80% duty cylce you would need 265cc/min injectors. ECU: whatever your engine shop is used to tuning. THE most important factor in this kind of setup is the way it is tuned. If you have no previous experience in this then let an expert do it. They usually have one type of ECU that they are familiar with..use it. I would also strongely suggest investing in a Wide band lambda sensor (WBO2) and a knock sensor that you can hook up to some earphones while tuning. Good luck! A wheel to steer the front of the car A pedal to steer the rear |
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4A-GE + Individual thotlle bodyes - ZaX - 10-28-2004, 10:05 AM
[] - NoHachi - 10-28-2004 11:53 AM
[] - Ivica aka Pero - 10-28-2004, 10:46 PM
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