4agze wiring problem
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01-11-2017, 04:12 PM
Post: #1
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4agze wiring problem
Hi there mates, i have a big wiring problem with my agze swap...there is no spark at all.
I have all correct +12v on all wires, ive checked continuity on all main wires related to spark and there is all ok. I have correct wires on igniter and on anlge position sensor. How can i check if the igniter is working of the angle sensor is damaged? Any other idea of where can it be the problem? All possible help and advices are very much appreciated...im on a dead end? Cheers |
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01-13-2017, 10:24 PM
Post: #2
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4agze wiring problem
It seems i finaly sortrd out the problem and now i have spark and injector are working. The next question is: does anybody know how is the 4agze timming?
I cant find info about it on the net and i dont know what should be the alignament mark on the angle sensor. Cheers |
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01-13-2017, 10:35 PM
Post: #3
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4agze wiring problem
This diagram (from the internet) shows the basic 4AGZE ignition setup...
If you are using coilpacks, the only unusual feature is that you must use the OEM igniter. Instead of having a standard 2-channel igniter, the 4AGZE has a single ignition output and a flip-flop circuit that tells the igniter which coil to fire. Note that the outer case of the igniter must be grounded. Cheers... jondee86 The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man. |
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01-14-2017, 01:14 AM
Post: #4
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4agze wiring problem
Thanks Jondee86, this stuff its controlled (seemsly) im using a ford dual coilpack for the moment. Oem coils seems rare to find and seriusly pricey.
I have 4 sparks running great for the moment but i have no idea to make the timing to start the engine. I,ve made a search but i cant find the real one for agze. It seems its same way as 4age but on the rotor there is no notch. It seems it has a tooth a bit longer than the rest, and i guess it needs to be align to a line marked on the rotor housing. Cheers |
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01-14-2017, 05:51 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-14-2017 05:53 AM by jondee86.)
Post: #5
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4agze wiring problem
Yes... the GZE CAS has one tooth that seems a little longer than all the
others and has a small circle or dot on the end of the tooth facing you. Make the CAS fixing bolt about the middle of the adjustment slot with the long tooth aligned with the groove on top of the CAS body casting. Push the CAS straight in... always works for me Then you need to connect each coil to the correct pair of cylinders. 4-post coilpacks are usually two double ended coils... each coil fires two cylinders in wasted spark. Firing order is 1-3-4-2 with one coil firing cylinders 1 + 4 and the other coil firing cylinders 2 + 3. If the engine does not fire up after a couple of tries, swap the coil trigger wires around. Cheers... jondee86 The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man. |
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01-14-2017, 02:33 PM
Post: #6
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4agze wiring problem
Thaks a lot mate, great help indeed.
I have to make a bolt extension for the CAS because on the oem position, it hits exhaust manifold. If the engine is on timing marks, i assume it does not matter the Cas position as far as it be aligned. Doesnt it? Plus, my pulley advance mark is missing due to broken edge when remove it. Does the 0 degree advance matches the pulley mark when the cams are on timing marks for replacing timing belt? Cheers |
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01-14-2017, 10:36 PM
Post: #7
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4agze wiring problem
If you use the details shown here for the 4AGE you should be able to get
the engine set to TDC on the compression stroke... If the engine is already in the car, you will have set the cam timing using some of the same details... 1. Cam pulleys to marks on backing plate 2. Dimple on top of intake cam (OEM cams only) 3. Notch on crank sprocket against dimple on oil pump 4. Cam lobes on #1 cylinder pointing left and right (ears out) 5. Notch on crank pulley matching pin or zero on scale If the crank pulley no longer has notches then you can use some of the other details to set the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke. Use white paint or some other method to make a mark on the rim of the crank pulley that matches zero on the cam belt timing scale. Install the CAS with the fixing lug to the front like this with the fixing bolt in the middle of the adjustment slot... Using a light, adjust the timing to 16DBTDC at idle with the engine warm. Cheers... jondee86 The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man. |
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01-15-2017, 10:05 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-15-2017 10:35 PM by leon205gti.)
Post: #8
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4agze wiring problem
Thanks mate. I will try to start it tomorrow. I let you know how it goes.
Cheers Also, it blows my mind of how poor info is avaliable about 4agze. As you post right before, the only info about tech data you find on the net is from 4age. It makes me think that being so near each other it maybe does not exist info of this type about it... |
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01-17-2017, 02:28 AM
Post: #9
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4agze wiring problem
(01-15-2017 10:05 PM)leon205gti Wrote: Also, it blows my mind of how poor info is avaliable about 4AGZE. As you The 1988 MR2 Repair Manual for the USA and Canada covers the timing procedure for the 4AGZE. It is essentially the same as for the 4AGE except that the timing pin is mounted in the end of the bolt that holds the pulley for the tensioner. There are three notches on the rim of the crank pulley, and I guess this was done to put the marks up higher where they could be seen with the engine in the MR2. AFAIK the AE101 4AGZE with the smallport head, CAS and coilpacks was only sold on the Japanese market, so there would not have been any manuals produced in other languages. I would imagine that cam timing and ignition timing is set the same way as the MR2 version, using whatever timing marks are found on the engine. For sure when you start to mix and match components, you will have to use your imagination Cheers... jondee86 The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man. |
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01-17-2017, 08:27 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-17-2017 09:11 PM by leon205gti.)
Post: #10
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4agze wiring problem
It filally started couple of hours ago. Just twist the key and it goes without a touch on the throttle. Im so happy, many thanks to all of you for your help.
Now, couple of things... It has very high rpm on idle, i guess it is sucking air from anywhere. I have to check it out. For the moment i have no IC so ive put a hose to join sc outlet with inlet manifold but on this high rpm idle, the hose is sucked in. Is that normal? Cheers Btw, how you guys have your vacum lines sorted? Which ones can go on same port? For the moment i have fuel preassure valve, superch valve and map sensor. Iirc map and sc valve joined and to port next to tb linkage, fuel valve and brown plug solenoid are joined and feeds from between tb and brown plug solenoid |
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