AE86 SR20DET - Walaki

[NoHachi]

That's what I meant.. not as bad as it sounds, but still everything is in front of the centre line and adds to the front weight. You'll notice it at turn in unless you manage to move some other weight to the back. You'll definitely notice the extra power..

205-RSR's are pretty good in my experience. But they develop cracks somehow. You can have camskill deliver the AD08's for cheap I think. But they won't help much above the marangoni's (zeta linea?). A used set of AO48s can be very fast for cheaps too.

[[Walaki]D`Lair]

Are you saying that the AD08 are not better than the Zeta Linea? Those are the shittiest slippiest tires i've ever come across No wear, but no grip either...useless junk...

[NoHachi]

Zeta Linea [u:28e32d36ee]Sport [/u:28e32d36ee] = full semi

[[Walaki]D`Lair]

NoHachi Wrote:Zeta Linea Sport = full semi

I have the simple Zeta Linea road tires, back from 2007...But those Sports does look good!

I've just ordered the Federals

[NoHachi]

The Federals ROCK in the rain. Closest you'll get to full-rain slicks.

[Rascal21]

NoHachi Wrote:So basically, if you do everything to a new 2 liter engine that you would do to a AE92 engine, it would cost more money. Sound logical to me.

And also throwing a bone stock AE111 engine into a car ends up nurtering your driving style nicely, but throwing a stock 2 liter engine into the car ends with people at the boat docks using it for an anchor. Right

The only thing I'm missing is an argument about the cars 'soul'.

Lol talk about faceslap

Less power=More flooring it and rear wheels going around more consistantly than you would with more power, or do you think perhaps 800HP cars should be minimum bare legal for beginner drivers? Right.. You mad today or what?


Of course tossing a engine whose internals you havent even inspected into a car that you`re gna do some hard driving with does provide risks of you ending up with a dock mooring?
And if you really are of the opposite opinion then sorry for saying but I for one would not want engine advice from you
Whether it be 1.6 or 2 liter the risk is the same and any swappers run the same risk by putting in non-inspected engines in their AE86`s.


Owh and I dont give a crap about cars soul allthough I do understand from this argument of yours that you must have argued a lot of cartoon ppl and you`re sick of it, understandbly so!
With the shaitbox the AE86 really is it is a entry level car that has shaited in sponsored powerhouses`s beds none the less, the rules of the game is efficiency, simplicity, function and consistency so hopefully we can at least agree to that

Power and light weight `s teh shiz, if its so much about powerhouse and costs hopefully someone mentioned 1UZ-FE?
Weighs less than SR20DET, around same as F20C, hella cheaper than both and hella more torque (And sounds sick)

[NoHachi]

LOL , Ok, I'll bite, but don't think I'm taking this seriously and get all butt hurt OK?

Quote:Less power=More flooring it and rear wheels going around more consistantly than you would with more power,

Correct, if your goal is getting the wheels going round most consistently. Best bet is zero hp and complete standstill.

Quote:or do you think perhaps 800HP cars should be minimum bare legal for beginner drivers? Right.. You mad today or what?

You calling our Walaki a beginner driver now? That's not nice of you .

There's a name for that style of reasoning, its called reductio ad absurdum. And it doesn't make much sense or have any practical applications. But I am having a very pleasant day today actually, thank you

Quote:Of course tossing a engine whose internals you havent even inspected into a car that you`re gna do some hard driving with does provide risks of you ending up with a dock mooring?

Lovely bit of insight that holds true for everything but buying a brand new car or crate engine. What's your point?

Quote:the rules of the game is efficiency, simplicity, function and consistency so hopefully we can at least agree to that

And your advice at achieving that being a fully custom, tuned to the hilt 1.6ltr engine revving to the moon on cobbled together parts. Great thinking there Sherlock. ;-)

Quote:Power and light weight `s teh shiz, if its so much about powerhouse and costs hopefully someone mentioned 1UZ-FE?
Weighs less than SR20DET, around same as F20C, hella cheaper than both and hella more torque (And sounds sick)

People posessing the power of google (usually stinking youths of the videogame generation ;-) ) always collect the 1uzfe weight from the same list.
Think about it logically.
Alloy block (same as SR/F20)
Twice the amount of rods
Twice the amount of cams
Twice the amount of pistons
Twice the amount of valves

Think about where they can save weight. Every part has to be half the weight of the 4 cyl stuff to get things even. Its just not going to happen. I count on the fully dressed 1UZ-FE being another 20-30kg's more then the F20C or SR20DET.

They do sound awesome though.


Now remember to read all of this with a very big ;-)

[Rascal21]

NoHachi Wrote:LOL , Ok, I'll bite, but don't think I'm taking this seriously and get all butt hurt OK?

Let the battle of wits commence! *Takes Kelso stand alà That 70`s Show"
And no worries man, actually I didnt wanna start anything and suddle the thread, BUUUUT I`ll make one exception since you (Being a moderator and all) kinnda just blessed it and if you roasted me from here on out anyway it would undermine your authority and integrity.
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So that if you do fall into my trap you`ll fall into the endless abyss of discredit and I can ultimately end up taking my righteous place at the throne as TEH CHOSEN ONE!! LOL (I.e take all that I wrote there with a big cup of )

NoHachi Wrote:

Quote:Less power=More flooring it and rear wheels going around more consistantly than you would with more power,

Correct, if your goal is getting the wheels going round most consistently. Best bet is zero hp and complete standstill.

I was thinking in terms of wheels slipping because of too much power, you can throttle less through the curves but that means less drivetrain RPM. That (And some sick racing tires) is why even 220-230hp N2 hachi`s does Tsukuba at under 1 minute because the power is spread thin on high rev limits, if you built the N2 drivers a low rev 300hp Turbo 4AG they`d spin around the whole track!

NoHachi Wrote:

Quote:or do you think perhaps 800HP cars should be minimum bare legal for beginner drivers? Right.. You mad today or what?

You calling our Walaki a beginner driver now? That's not nice of you .

Not calling him anything if you take a close look at any of my previous statements! Dafuq?
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Hmm.. -,-
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I got it!! It`s all a conspiracy LOL

NoHachi Wrote:There's a name for that style of reasoning, its called reductio ad absurdum. And it doesn't make much sense or have any practical applications. But I am having a very pleasant day today actually, thank you

Thats ok, looked like you took my words close to heart thats all, if you were just hooning about then no big deal

Quote:Of course tossing a engine whose internals you havent even inspected into a car that you`re gna do some hard driving with does provide risks of you ending up with a dock mooring?

NoHachi Wrote:Lovely bit of insight that holds true for everything but buying a brand new car or crate engine. What's your point?

Well thats a big fast conclusion being drawn there (Or I`m just not getting you, I`m open to explanations ), but I`ll illustrate a quick example (Which btw has nothing to do with Walaki, since you "NoHachi" SEEM to be at the quicker side at drawing conclusions in that regard):

*Le me looks online at JDM parts site*
"Complete SR20DET, low mileage after rebuild, used in track day car, looking for something a bit faster for my Silvia and want to finance RB25DET"
*Le me buys SR20DET*
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*Le me installs it into the car and drives hard*
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*Engine blows cuz previous owner didnt install bearings correctly but I didn`t check for that since I just installed the motor without inspecting the internals and correcting any mistakes*
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*Stupid AE86! I`m selling it and getting a Silvia!* (Even tho engine blow due to wrongly assembled or worn internals has nothing to do with the car..)

Point taken?

Quote:the rules of the game is efficiency, simplicity, function and consistency so hopefully we can at least agree to that

NoHachi Wrote:And your advice at achieving that being a fully custom, tuned to the hilt 1.6ltr engine revving to the moon on cobbled together parts. Great thinking there Sherlock. ;-)

ROFLMCMAO Gotta love the Sherlock joke even when it`s used against me
If you judge all good spec engines on the sentiment of them being built on "cobbled together parts" then a full spec Hasselgren AE92 Kouki engine with their new ITB`s etc etc is also just unreliable scrapheap parts then? (What forum is this? LOL )
Or what did you mean by cobbled together parts? Hasselgren has won shaitloads of "4AG TRD builder of inputword" awards so thats why I`m a bit puzzled here.. Looks like either you drew a fast conclusion or I`m simply not getting what you`re specifically aiming at, please explain so we can dump this whole misunderstanding thing Hopefully you`re not pissed at me or anything

Quote:Power and light weight `s teh shiz, if its so much about powerhouse and costs hopefully someone mentioned 1UZ-FE?
Weighs less than SR20DET, around same as F20C, hella cheaper than both and hella more torque (And sounds sick)

NoHachi Wrote:People posessing the power of google (usually stinking youths of the videogame generation ;-) ) always collect the 1uzfe weight from the same list.
Think about it logically.
Alloy block (same as SR/F20)
Twice the amount of rods
Twice the amount of cams
Twice the amount of pistons
Twice the amount of valves

Think about where they can save weight. Every part has to be half the weight of the 4 cyl stuff to get things even. Its just not going to happen. I count on the fully dressed 1UZ-FE being another 20-30kg's more then the F20C or SR20DET.

They do sound awesome though.

Did I mention the 1uzfe has an alloy block and none of the heavy weight carboid gas "cheap teenager escape for power and glory and possible fiery death" fan stuff of the SR? (Don`t take that in word for word, as I said there are fast SR86`s, I dig SR20`s, Hibino Tetsuya anyone? )
Would think that 4 extra pistons and conrods doesnt make THAT much of a difference anyway considering the weight saved on the engine block

You went pretty presumptious about it (Seriously you are a bit presumptious and slightly quick at conclusions) so I`ll take a risk (Oh I love that game) by NoHachi`ng it (If I humbly may sir) and say that at the very least it evens out
Oh and yes, how dare you use google! You no life teenager you! I`ll have you flogged for this! I don`t need you! I don`t need any of you!..
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No wait..

NoHachi Wrote:Now remember to read all of this with a very big ;-)

No worries! Hopefully I`m not fa(xx)ing about on your house walls either

I don`t wanna sod it all up and look like a jackass at the same time so if I`m going overkill here I`m sorry.

Actually I lied a little, I DO have a soft spot for 1.6L N/A rolla`s, and with Walaki driving the way he does on low costs at high revs it`s all hella fun!

BUT it`s kinnda stupid to shovel away everyone else`s suggestions to pave way for your own, there`s plenty of video material out there that goes to show good points for every viable motor alternative for the AE86, who am I to judge? I just think this build is hella cool and will still be hella cool whatever Walaki decides, `nuff said

[NoHachi]

Ok Ok [ holds hands up in the air] I give up.

Just need to get back to the one thing I was being serious about. You mention the 1UZ saving weight on the block. It doesn't (really!). Its all alloy, just like the F20C and SR20DET (but the UZ is bigger).

[Rascal21]

No worries man, all in good fun, glad to meet a fun spiritet moderator, youre cool bro!

I`m pretty sure that at least in the weight department 1UZFE VS complete SR20DET swaps, the 1UZ prevails, however I sooooo agree with you on the F20C, not to mention the F20C is probably the best stock 2 litre engine in its class!

Honda aftermarket parts companies (Like Spoon) say that you dont even want to fiddle about with breathing mods for the high performance street going Honda V-Tec engines, that in fact you`ll loose power, i.e either go cheap by adding turbo, or go all out tuning it, or totally leave it be (I.e dont buy aftermarket air filter and stuff like that, the engine works better with stock filters etc)

The BMI guys tested the exact 7 year old NSX (Allthough not F20C, at least it`s a v-tec) that they`ve had in the staff since new, stock and non-tuned, and found that with the years of use it actually had like 8hp more than it had when it was new! Speaks loads for what Honda thinks about when they build those engines imho