Blaze's AE86

[r.ave]

i don't have one either under the windshield

[Blaze0010]

It all make sense now, the spot must be there because of the US car, and of course it's such a small detail that Toyota didn't bother to modify the dash. Thanks for all the info, now i can proceed (when the dam kit arrives) with mounting the windshield.

[Blaze0010]

Some minor update!
After all the pieces required arrived, i was finally able to put the windshield back in it's place.
Followed step by step the service manual it was a piece of cake (thanks to a couple of very good suction cup, and a very helpful wife).
Removed all the excess material, marked the correct position with some tape, applied the dam at the correct distance, layed down a nice bead of automotive glass glue (8-10mm if there is no urethane left on the glass), and that was it!
Before everything was dry i've also installed all the clips for the top moulding, that i already have but needs some love.
In the meantime i've completely disassembled the block and the head, ready to be delivered to the machine shop in mid dicember, hoping to start the rebuild in january.
I measured all the internal components and they are all in specs. Some minor surface rust in cylinder 4, and only some leaking from 2 exhaust valves.
Also, in about a week and half i'll be in Japan for a couple of weeks, if anyone need anything just let me know! I already have a couple of package full of parts waiting for me at the hotel

[Blaze0010]

Some times has passed but i've got some update to share!

So first of all i've managed to rebuild completely all of my brake calipers. I've purchased the complete rebuild set from a spanish site (https://www.frenkit.es/en) very competitive price, around 20-25€ for each caliper with the pistons included.
For the brake caliper i did a very basic treatment. Soaked everything in vinegar for a couple of days, cleaned everything with a wire wheel and used as base cold galvanizing spray and as top coat used an high temperature spray, not needed really for the temperature but more because once dry holds better. Overall a very cheap restore i would say, but i'm pleased




I have changed the prop shaft center bearing since, as you can see the old one was in very bad shape. So the prop shaft is now ready!




During my trip in Japan i've managed to take back home with me a gasket kit for the gearbox. So i've opened the gearbox and verified with pleasure that everything was good! So i've proceed with a very good cleaning of the casing, and assembled everything together following the manual instruction. While i was there i also replaced all the bushing in the gearbox lever, using the Cusco brass collar which should improve the feeling, at least compared to the old consumed plastic one!




I've almost finished to fix all the rust on the hatch, just need to clean all the welding, and then proceed to use some filler and painting it. Be aware, my metal fabrication skills are very poor, and i've basically shaped everything with on old vise, a flat screwdriver and a definitely too big hammer. But overall i'm pleased, should be good enough!




Skipping to the engine, the first head i've sent to the machine shop was unfortunately cracked in 3 different place, no chance of fixing it. So i've bought from our good FanIsHere a big port head. This head on one of the combustion chamber had some denting, probably some metal pieces that bounced in there for a bit. Luckily after resurfacing the head it seems a lot better, and i might just go and with a fine file and try to smooth as much as possible the remain imperfection.

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Skipping on the enginge, the first head i've sent to the machine shop, was cracked in 3 spots, with no chance of fix. So i've purchase from our good FanIsHere a big port engine, where in 1 of the combustion chamber there was some denting probably caused by some metal piece bouncing in there. After the resurface it looks much better and i might try with i fine file to just smooth the remaining imperfection as much as possible.






Lastly, the block. It has also been resurfaced and measured the cylinder:

- 81.15
- 81.06
- 81.08
- 81.13

According to the manual the maximum allowed is 81.20 to 81.23, so they are all still in specs, but what do you think? Better keep it like this or just go for bore all of them to the OD size, 81.50? One of the cylinder has some surface rust, but the machine shop told me not to worry.
Another thing for what i am not so happy is that with the resurface of the block they also left a visible scratch on the surface, so i'm still conflicted on what to do about it. Should be minimal and will probably never cause any issues, but you may never know





Since you guys surely have more experience about the 4AGE, what's your take on these?

[Dave W]

I do not see a problem with the cylinder rust. A 320 grit ball hone with 15 to 20 stroke in each cylinder at about 45* you should be good to go. I would use something like copper spray on the head gasket. Torque it down in two or three passes. Let it set over night, then loosen each bolt [one at a time in sequence then re-tighten to spec, then move to the next bolt]

[Blaze0010]

It's been a long time since my last update but i've keep my head down and continued with the works
Since the last update i've managed to rebuild the engine, and basically almost completely put everything back in the engine bay.
Cylinder bored to 81.5mm and crankshaft and flywheel balanced by the machine shop.
Made new brake and fuel lines and and already put up also new clutch and pressure plate and the T50 transmission.
Apart from the front right caliper that i need to replace i would say that as of today 98% of all the mechanical stuff is done!
Now i'm currently battling with the wiring, so far i only got the light working, but i believe i'm still missing some relay and to properly connect some ground point.
Also while on vacation i've managed to grab a pair of blue tint quarter glass, so now i have a complete set.
Completely refurbished the fuel tank, with epoxy primer outside and tankerite inside, new fuel pump cradle and fuel pump and fuel sender.
I'm really really close to attempt a first start, just need to sort out the electrical stuff, which i already know it will be a suffering

[banpei]

You really made some progress! That has become a very tidy rebuild!

[Blaze0010]

I am quite pleased of how the rebuild is coming! What i'm trying to achieve is an almost complete stock version of a Trueno, but LHD
The only thing i'm going to change will be the tyre size, i really love the look of 15".
Can't wait to start it up for the first time, but first i have to fight with the electrical stuff, because i am using the engine loom that came with the engine , which is a Bigport 3-rib with AFM (i have to remove the EGR system because i've purchased a throttle body from Japan with no vacuum tube), a Trueno engine bay loom, dash loom and rear loom all from Japan.
So i had to do some extensions to the plugs that goes in the 2 J/B inside.
Now i've just ordered a Circuit open relay that was missing and i'm trying to understand how the ignition work, because i don't know if i am missing a relay also there.

[decryphe]

That's really impressive, hats of to the work!

[Blaze0010]

I'm committed and trying to work on it everyday, even for just half an hour in my spare time, and for sure having a friend who bought a big garage next to my house and let me use it is quite a big held
A small update that may be interesting for someone looking to wheels. I've purchased a set of 15x7 ET0 wheels from Maxilite. They have the classic look, price is right (205€ each) and most importantly come with a Tüv certificate!
For anyone looking for a nice set of wheels for a reasonable price, this could be a solution.
I've found them in the maxilite site, listed for the Datsun.