Bought a Ae86 and super scared cause of rust can any one hel

[adamsaiyad]

I have bought this two door coupe from japan and its still there but th auction grade is grade 2 and there is rust on the left rear fender back arch and on the boot.
Can any one understand the auction sheet and help me understand what the car has and hasnt got ?
How bad is the rust should i toss the car for spares?

[adamsaiyad]

**Bump **
Any one please ??

[Ivan141]

There are very few people who can read Japanese on the forum.
Why the anxiety? You obviously knew there was a risk when ordering the car, just take it easy and see what you get when it arrives. Knowing how bad things are wont change a thing, unless you have the money to go and order another one so you wont have to wait too long.

Generally, jap AE86's are not complete rustbuckets.

[adamsaiyad]

I appreciate the quick response.
Im thinking of possibly Cutting this chassis for spare.
And buying another 2dr levin
It might and might not be a option.
i got this one fairly cheap.
I am stressing though because no point in paying for container shipping on a car that is a rust bucket.
Might as well pay shipping on a car that has some life out of it.
Its a pitty toyota stopped making parts for this beautiful car
Any other suggestions any one else ?

[Bean]

Quote:Grading:

The auctions on our website are a combination and translation of a number of japanese auction house auctions. Their gradings are not exactly the same, but the summary below is fairly accurate.

Good Grade vehicles:


Grade Means Comments Remarks
5, 6 or above As new condition Usually current year model, very low k/s and no blemishes or marks, showroom condition
Pay the money but get a near new car
4.5 Excellent condition Showroom condition slightly higher k/s
4 Good condition for age & k/s Good condition for age & k/s may require some minor paint touch ups. Best target !!! Value for money
3.5 Average condition to below average for age & k/s Will require some reconditioning &/or paint touch up work, usually cheap for age & k/s Ok if you don't mind scratches etc

Note 1:

After the number sometimes you will see two letters, the first letter relates to the exterior condition and the second letter relates to interior condition. Any repair required is not due to a road accident, but general wear and tear:

A - No need for repair. (Excellent nice condition)

B - May require cosmetic repair or cleaning. (Reasonably nice condition)

C - Needs repair. (Some work required)

D - Obvious it requires repair. (Needs attention, poor condition)



Lower Grade Vehicles:


Grade
Means Comments Remarks
3 Some small previous accident repair or poor condition Small repair or poor condition but often if small repair can still be in tidy condition for age & k/s and often cheap Sometimes ok sometimes needs a lot of work
2 Very bad condition Would not recommend a grade 2 Are you that keen?
1 Modified car or some other situation Will only consider if client requests a modified car.
0.1, R1, RA1 Modified & repaired Will only consider if client requests a modified car.
0, R, RA Accident repaired vehicle or Small or very good repair hard to see Sometimes ok
Larger accident repaired vehicle or bad flood damaged.
*** Damaged unrepaired or suitable for parts only





Other Letters:


Grade Means
S (better than grade 7) Perfect new car condition
T Special purpose vehicle

Note 2
Auction Houses differ and there are some variations to the above grades but generally these will give you an idea.

Quote:Ａ：Scratch
Ｕ：Dent
Ｂ：Dent with other defects,deep scratch
Ｗ：Repaired trace
Ｓ：Rust
Ｃ：Corrosion
Ｐ：Paint required
Ｘ：Replacement required
Ｇ：Windowscreen Stone chip and /or scratch

hope that helps

[adamsaiyad]

Dear bandit,

Thankyou for that informative response.
Would it be possible to interpret what is written on the auction sheet
I know the car has a lsd diff.
but thats about it.
Should i be worried about that level of rust or should i still import the car and be prepared to do some sheet metal work and rebuild the different sections of the body work??

Hope to hear from you soon.
Cheers and thanks again adam

[Mikzu IV]

Its very rare to find an ae86 without rust, just don't be scared of rust. treat it and drive it.
I can also imagine that the level of rustyness in japan is a good step lower that for example in salty europe.

[Bean]

I would import and fix it but that's me so do what ever you think is best - I can't read japanese so do know what's written there but as mentioned before every ae86 has some rust now and then so no surprise realy... regarding the spec shhet it category C and not D so I guess mild repairs...

go get it especially if you have the money to get another one get this fix it and spend some time on the track with the leftover money

this is just my 2p and how I'd go about it...

[adamsaiyad]

I feel a little better after hearing that from dean.
Something my best friend here would say his name is also dean.
Thanks i will be getting photos tomorrow of the rust and if its really bad i will still get it drive it and learn to drift in it and then get a better one later on. i intend on buying a really clean ae86 2dr later on.
Where can i get a good set of wheels for this one from any one out there ??
i am thinking of getting a J-blood Body kit for it as well later on.
can i cut out the rust get new peices of metal made up and weld them in.
for the wheel arches can i find a suitable car and install them off there.
Like a corolla from 1984 four door.
will have to see and try my best with this one as i already own it
Thankyou all for the encouragement.

[Ivan141]

Find yourself a competent car restoration guy to do the welding if you cant do it yourself. Arches from a Ford Escort mk3 or the 80's toyota starlet are the closest matches we know of.

One piece of advice: handle rust as quickly as possible: rust is the first step to more rust. I'm sure it wont be as bad in Africa as it is in europe, but be sure to treat it.