Brakes
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11-19-2004, 12:57 PM
Post: #41
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Brakes
Thanx, this is enough info to go looking around.
No no no noooooooooooooooooooo |
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11-19-2004, 01:05 PM
Post: #42
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Brakes
Damn sorry Jeroen. that should have been a 4x114.4 PCD, which is much rarer.
You see people redrilling discs all the time. When you have acces to a machine shop its peanuts but not everyone does. You could probably play around with the bracket somewhat. Basically its just mix and match. Nothing to difficult and easily done with the struts of the car. A wheel to steer the front of the car A pedal to steer the rear |
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11-19-2004, 01:13 PM
Post: #43
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Brakes
I knew
We have a shop here called "remservice - Utrecht". I always can walk in with the disc specs and ask for a better replacement No no no noooooooooooooooooooo |
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11-19-2004, 01:28 PM
Post: #44
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Brakes
Thats one of the few capable brakeshops we have here in Holland. you can always have some 2 piece AP discs made up with a custom center. They are slightly more expensive.
A wheel to steer the front of the car A pedal to steer the rear |
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11-19-2004, 01:55 PM
Post: #45
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Brakes
I can always go to DBM if i have enough money
No no no noooooooooooooooooooo |
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12-09-2004, 09:45 AM
Post: #46
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Brakes
one thing you need to consider with a brake upgrade is the change in bias.
I'm running an ihi vf24 turbo on my 4agte and stopping power is crucial & on a car as light as the AE86 there are many options. I'm in the process off upgrading to series 4 rx7 brakes/calipers...no modification of the proportioning valve is required...the only modification i have done is upgrade the master cylinder to a slightly larger ae82 item. The rx7 calipers arent that much larger than the AE86 so fluid displacement remains similar Another popular option where i come from is an s13 180sx/silvia upgrade...the s13 struts are a direct fit and give you slight neg camber which is ideal for drifting...parts/maintenance in this area is easier and cheaper due to their availabilty i've also heard of ae92, ae101, toyota crown, ma61 supra & r32 gtr upgrades to list a few. You shouldnt be deterred by the stud pattern either...its a simple task to redrill & restud. Mitsubishi Sigma studs are good for this the t3 brake kit is overkill in my opinion...far to heavy |
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01-05-2005, 02:27 PM
Post: #47
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Brakes
Dot3&4 can be ever mixed, Dot5 fluid is totaly different and you MUST flush all the lines before use Dot5 !!
About the brakes - the facts that I'm in Europe, on low budget and want to use at least 14" rims bring me to desicion to use european car as donor of brakes. I found that oldest BMW 7XX uses 4-pot front calipers with 280 mm discs (rear and front). At the moment I and my friend (a proud 735 owner) disassemble one 728i '79 and soon I will transfer the 728's brakes to AE86. Not easy task but: 1. cheap discs (must be adapted),very big (280 mm vs ~230 mm AE86 ones) and fits 14" rims 2. cheap pads |
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01-05-2005, 11:08 PM
Post: #48
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Brakes
Nice, keep us updated..
FABRICA MI DIEM, PVNC! |
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01-06-2005, 12:07 AM
Post: #49
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Brakes
Quote:Dot3&4 can be ever mixed, Dot5 fluid is totaly different and you MUST flush all the lines before use Dot5 !! True, but DOT5 is pretty rare. The performance brake fluids everyone uses are DOT5.1 which CAN be mixed with DOT 3 & 4. Just to prevent some of the confusion that the similarly named DOT 5 & 5.1 fluids can cause. Flushing the system prior to a change is always a good idea offcourse, even when using DOTwhatever. A wheel to steer the front of the car A pedal to steer the rear |
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01-06-2005, 12:35 AM
Post: #50
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Brakes
for brake fluid, as I have some experience in rallye racing , I use
a Dot 5 liquid : ELF motorbike . It's a very good quality fluid , and I find it cheap, about 8€ for 1/2 liter. Never got fading brake with it , and it's a long lasting product ,not like AP racing , which must be changed very often! Filh Filh Save the RWD cars |
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