Break In Secrets by MotoMan

[Apolan]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

this is the topic i have read a couple of times in the past, thought about pasting the link here in case somebody haven't seen this already. And of course the morst importaint question, what do you thiink about this?

[BenR]

Push it ideally.

However you then run into logistical problems.

Your oil is cold so has to be preheated, you have to prime the engine, you have to make bang on sure that the fueling is correct once you open the throttle.

All of which are impossible for the average joe, and for a new engine spec that you wont have a basemap for.

So ideally, you'll want to get things running to a level where you can boot it as fast as possible.

Or, spend more money on a PROPER CNC diamond hone with plateu finishing.

[cannabolic]

interesting...

isn't that when braking-in a new engines with new materials used(honing)?

really waiting for post on this topic

[BenR]

If your not using new parts, then your not breaking in an engine.

And anytime you do use new rings, which is all this discussion is really about, you HAVE to hone and break the rings in.

[cannabolic]

that was not what I meant...


The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements, because as you're about to learn, the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with
newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines.

In addition, there is a lot less heat build up in the cylinders from ring friction
due to the finer honing pattern used in modern engines.

The other factors that have changed are the vastly improved metal casting and machining
technologies which are now used. This means that the "wearing in" of the new parts
involves significantly less friction and actual wear than it did in the distant past.


With that in mind ...

[mrgud]

cannabolic Wrote:In addition, there is a lot less heat build up in the cylinders from ring friction
due to the finer honing pattern used in modern engines.

Actualy, if I may say... The rings are in most old engines, that don't have aditional oil sprayers on the bottom dead center, the only path for the heat to wear of the piston. Pistons are cooled over the piston rings. (I didn't believe this until they said it to me at coledge )


This is a great subject... I wonder what will come out of it...

I am for both of the first two methods... depending what you want to do with the engine... but you get allmost the same result... Factory engines aren't tuned in graduately... they are reved from the start... but then, new matherials, new tehnologies...

[BenR]

cannabolic Wrote:that was not what I meant...


The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements, because as you're about to learn, the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with
newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines.

In addition, there is a lot less heat build up in the cylinders from ring friction
due to the finer honing pattern used in modern engines.

The other factors that have changed are the vastly improved metal casting and machining
technologies which are now used. This means that the "wearing in" of the new parts
involves significantly less friction and actual wear than it did in the distant past.


With that in mind ...

Quite correct, as i stated with the use of diamond honing and plateu finishing to reduce the Ra. With the onset of more advanced and accurate ring manufacture, harder materials, coatings etc etc.......the need to 'break in' rings isnt quite as pronounced as were starting with a much better surface finish that is already (or rather should be) perfectly round.

As for the rest of items 'wearing in' its quite correct aswell, heat treatment of better quality camshaft castings/billet cores results in a lack of a need to surface work the lobes, along with alot of people moving to radius path roller followers with increasingly aggresive cam ramp and flank profiles.

With all this in mind, there is even less of an issue to bed an engine and go straight to tunning and loading.

[cannabolic]

just for the record I quoted motoman

[ZaX]

Just for the record I did it like Motoman says, just on a dyno.
17.000 km so far and no problems with engine.

[Apolan]

Hmm interesting, it appears that half of the people here agree with the "unconventional" breaking in method, and the other half appear wanting to agree yet they are a bit sceptical.. only one person thinks breaking the engine slowly in is the right thing to do. Quite different from 2 years ago or so, when we talked about this topic, if i remember correctly.

I'm wondering since opinions differ like aplles and watermelons.. does this "unconventional" breaking in method have any other implications or better said *conditions* (rebuilding_the_engine-wise) that this "new" method will only work under? i.e. building the engine with very close tolerances etc..