Can't fire up. Buzzing from the relay, lamps blinkin- HELP

[mrgud]

Hello, I was afraid to put this only in my topic because it probably wouldn't be so seen...

http://www.aeu86.org/viewtopic.php?t=373...c&start=50

As you can see, i had a blown head gasket, and did the servicing (poorely, world smallest bugdet (and thanx to a few loans)), put a new gasket, and everything is on again.

I connected everythig, checked it, checked the timing belt, it is fine (according to the manual), and started crancking the car. I cranked it for some 15min (with delays obviously), like 20 times. I realized that there is a lot of air in the fuel rail, and asumed that i can't fire untill the air somehow gets out... (it should of go to the tank on a back link)...

Long story short-
the car didn't fire, and now after all the trouble, when I turn the key to contact on the check engine lamp is of. I can crank the engine, it will not fire, and when I turn the key back to off the check engine lamp is weeakly blinking along with batery lamp and there is a strange buzzing sound from the 3m relay underneath, at the fuse box. It won't stop until I kill the power manualy from the battery...


Now, I changed the relay (there is the same one in the engine bay) with the other one, (changed places of the relays)- the same story... turn the key, no check engine, turn of- buzzzzzz

I checked all the fuses, check the wires (nut'n burned or similar)....

Few questions, if you would be so kind:
1. WTF is it with the circut?
2. Is it the fuel pump? (i can test it by hot- wireing it at the back, but maybe the problem is in getting the power to her)
3. It is a zenki model. Does it have the diagnoastic jack and where is it (searched the whole engine bay- no sign of it)?

4. When putting the distributor back, pullys on the mark, crank on the TDC of 1st cilinder- everything Ay OKAY- when I put the marks on the distributor right, since it is a hypoid gear, it turns a degree or so when pushed in. Does the mark on the distributor have to be right when putting or when it is in place (inside)??

Please, I am on a werge of nervous brakedown... Checking the car for a week now, still nothing... Problems just getting bigger...


PS
Did you notice that in the manuals, on- TIMING belt instalation, on the it says that crankshaft must be on the mark 0 (TDC of 1st piston), pins on camshafts (intake up, exhaust down) and pullys on their marks... BUT on one picture the crankshaft is on 5deg advance...? I supose that is a print mistake... (hope, because I did mine 0)

[Ivan141]

relax.. looking at everything all at once is a sure way to notfind anything.

No check engine light when contact is on means the ECU isnt working.
At least in my experience it's the ECU. Check ALL the fuses, including those big ones on the battery clamps.

Buzzing relay...dont know about that.. sounds like you might have a short or wrongly connected wire.

Fuelpump: loosen the banjo bolt on the fuelrail, give it a short blip of the startmotor. This is our very own JesseP's expensive-fountain method of checking fuelpump operation (need I say more?). Do watch out with open fire though!.

I did a post once with pictures explaining the check engine connectors. Do a search, you'll find it no doubt.
It's a loose round yellow connector with 2 contacts, on the firewall behind the intake plenum. You need to have the contacts connected for diagnostics, and when adjusting the distributor (otherwise you haveto set it around the 14 degrees advance mark and hope the ecu hasnt corrected anything).

Distributor: it's normal for it to turn a tiny bit when you insert it.. it would still run even if it is a tooth too far one way or the other.

Just remember the only 3 things that matter for the engine to run:
FUEL
AIR
SPARK

Check that you have all three, although air is never really the problem now is it.

[mrgud]

thanx Ivan... gonna do the theral check of all wireing circuts...

Emazing what you learn when you are out of money, broke... Hope I don't make it a habit...

Today I checked, the buzzing comes from rear fog lamp relay ( ??? confused)
going to check your posts, I believe you ment this ones:
http://www.jmross.freeserve.co.uk/part3p1.html
http://www.jmross.freeserve.co.uk/part2p1.html
and
http://www.aeu86.org/viewtopic.php?t=249...highlight=

I hope that is it. I am on 56k ( ). Sick as a dog, stayed home, have some toothache with a bit of cold... Drunk and on tabs (not realy what you call driving capable)

[Ivan141]

Get better soon man...I know the feeling.
Those posts are not what I meant, you dont need to know ANYTHING about how the ECU works...just make sure that it does.
If the wiring is correct, and the ECU works, then the check engine light should light up when contact is on.
If it does not, a fuse may be blown.
For the rest..just check for fuel and spark. If both are there it might need readjusting of the ignition, or the engine is getting flooded by the fuel.
Make real sure you havent missed any fuse, dont forget the ones inside the car, and the main fuses on the battery clamp.
Report back when you know more and I'll help you through it.

[Red]

mrq, let me add from experience that when you are sick as a dog AND on meds...resist the temptation to go near the car! When your mind is clear and sharp it is hard enough to solve the problem. When your mind is drugged and fevered, it is more likely that you will screw it up even worse.

So let the car sit, ignore it until your head is clear. You will probably get it fixed faster AND cheaper by leaving it alone until then.<G>

One thing, the starter motor. Starter motors are built for intermittent use. If you use it for 2-3 minutes, it may need 15-20 minutes to cool down, or else the coil windings heat up and you scrape the insulation off them when you crank it--and that will lead to ruining the starter motor as well. If you can't put your hand on the starter and leave it there comfortably--it is overheated.

The check engine connector, at least on the 85, is one of two that hang down on the firewall next to the the rear windshield washer valve, in front of the passenger. If I remember correctly it is the smaller (narrower) of the two connectors. Both are covered with black rubber caps from the factory.

There's no real "diagnostic" connector like modern cars have, you can't get any data out of this connection.

[mrgud]

thanx guys..

Right now, I crossed to more efficient drugs (heavy duty stuff) so rakija (schnapss, alchohol) is out... just Nalgasin double dosage!!! No pain!!! You should try it just kidding... Don't want this to nobody... haven't had a 2hrs sleep all together... Toothache is the worst, anoying thing...


Althou- in one of my ablivious states, I remembered... It could be the modul! I saw the spark jumping from the coil to the one of the conections (+ or - ) on the inductor... I changed the inductor, and left the old module (changed it to the "new" inductor). The module on the inductor from the 1/4 Hachi that i have had the module, but some prick cutted the cables 2mm from the module!!! AAAARRRGHHH (no conectors, too short to make some sort of conection).

Anyways... tumorow I am calling some sort of exorcist or a voodo master, and we will try to make the deamons go Going to check all the wireing, all conections, top to bottom...

2 Ivan- thanx, I aprechiate it! Will do... Just want to get sure in some stuff first not to drag you guys with stuff that is trivial...

[Red]

mrq-
The relay that was buzzing? Probably is a 12v relay but you'd want to confirm that, either from the rating stamped on it or the schematic. And then apply 12V to the coil terminals. If it clicks and doesn't buzz, you'll know the relay is good, the buzzing usually just means the relay isn't getting enough voltage from the supply. That could be a low battery or wiring problem in the car.

[Knudsen]

With exessive cranking (like you described) you risk burning a fuse, one of the big ones at the plus-pole on batteryclamp. That fuse supplys the ECU, the ingnitor coil and several other circuits. If its blown, you are able to crank the engine but will not get any spark, you wont get the "ECU light" in dash and (like in my case) a wierd ratteling noise from under the dash.

I blew the fuse by driving the car onto a trailer, using the starterengine and thereby overheating the starter.

[delange]

Knudsen Wrote:I blew the fuse by driving the car onto a trailer, using the starterengine and thereby overheating the starter.

this is the best way if no one is around to help you push the car
or if you're just lazy, like me :wink:

[meshin]

2 Mrgud: check the big round yellow fuse in engine compartment... it's easy to miss him because it's deattached from fuse box and all other fuses.

My car just stoped in the open road because lose contacts from that fuse, I could crank the engine, all the lights where OK, everything was just fine... but it wouldn't fire up no matter what I do.