DIY: Hopeless project.

[Rascal21]

Yeah, especially on a simple enough system like the Nippon/Hitachi Digifant.
Experience so far dictates just buy brand new part even if it`s not Toyota made, rather than juggling about with used parts.
Found this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignitor-Original...54&vxp=mtr

"Interchange Part Number:89620-12270, WA8500, TP203, CBE598, JA1109, 3VX800", should work just fine.

[Rascal21]

I got the new Ignition Module, but things wont settle for the better.
No fuel (new pump), no spark (new ignition module, tried a total of 5 coils).

After one startup try, #3 plug was wet, all others were dry.

So I managed to get the injector plugs off and measured voltage with ignition on, there is no voltage.

I took off the + and - leads that go from Ignition Module and to the coil, and measured Voltage with ignition on, and got 5,5 Volts with the old Ignition Modules and 6,9 Volts with the new one.

I installed the + and - leads back onto the Coil, and turned ignition on, and measured 0 Volts on the same wires, so I`m assuming this is because the Coil is charging.

So I checked if ECU got power from ignition and battery, which it does, I opened ECU to check for burn marks, blown capacitors etc, all seems well.

Seems I have no more cards left to play..

[Rascal21]

I`m biting the bullet, found a ECU with the same parts number as mine on Ebay (The 12060 one), situated in the UK so the shipping will be fast.
It`s been tested and has a 30 day warranty, its around 130`ish Euro`s total with tax, but if it`s no good I can just return it the same way it came and get back around half of what I paid, which is better than nothing.

On the flip-side, back when my brother and I opened up the ECU and gave it a visual inspection (and clean up), on the underside of the board some solder had melted and connected two soldering points (Somewhere underneath the right side of the board with the plugs pointing toward you and the board with the correct side up, unless I`m mistaken), I wonder what might cause that?

[Nakilad]

It's unlikely to have melted, a lot of ECU's and CB's in general have connecting links made from the solder.

Hope a new ECU solves your problem though!

[Rascal21]

Changed ECU and the same symptoms appear to haunt the car, she wont start but she cranks with the best of them.
In a bid to make sure the battery is good, I took that out of the car and put it into an audi with far more voltage requirements than that of a 4AGE, and the Audi (which has not been fired up for a year) started right up on first try.
So then I put it into my AE86 (which has rear-battery reloc and not been started for 2 months) and it too started on first try.

All ignition components are changed bar the distributor itself.
ECU, Igniter, Coil, relays, fuses and wires, fuel pump etc etc have all been changed, some more than once.
This leaves wiring harness I suppose, but it`s odd that I cant get a test light working on any of these two ECU`s, I turn ignition on and probe W-pin directly on the ECU with positive probe from the light and earth on the other probe without as much as a single flicker..

I KNOW the ECU is getting power with its own completely separate and fully working wiring harness that I`ve measured and tested into oblivion, so it is quite puzzling that the Warning/CEL wont work, if the ECU could just squeak to me as to what just might be the big deal I would not be sitting here wasting everyones time

The good news is I now have the spare parts that I`ve always wanted for this car should they ever go bad (4-5 coils, 2 ecu`s, 3 igniters, 3 alternators, 2 starters, 2 tps`s, 4 injectors etc), all I have to do now is to measure resistance between harness plugs at the ECU and injectors+igniter and so forth to find out if the harness is bad and from there attempt to either patch it or make a new harness.

For a pre-historic EFI system it`s putting up a darn good fight all things considered..

[Bean]

Not sure if you checked that already but did you connect/provide proper ground to the injectors? On a stock engine there's a small ground strap on the intake runners
Without it the engine won't run more than 2 seconds

[Rascal21]

Yeah I even made a secure earth from there to the chassis to make sure.

I got a multimeter and checked
Injectors > ground - Good.
Injectors >ECU (NO.10 and NO.20 pins on ECU Harness side to Injectors Harness side) - Good
ECU Harness side > Igniter Harness side (ECU pin#5 called IGt on middle plug) - Good.

I checked one of the Engine Revolution Sensor wires too (Pin called G1, From ECU harness side to the distributor Harness side) which also looked good.

Will check the other two to make sure.
If anything is wrong with the harness it must darn near be here because if ECU does not sense that engine is cranking then it wont give the engine any fuel or spark.

Glad to see that all the wires I`ve checked so far are 0.00 Ohm resistance exactly, not 0.01 or 0.02, but 0.00, healthy wires and pins is good stuff

[Rascal21]

Tried a bit more fiddling, noticed that ECU/Ignition/Fuel earth leads on intake clamp (runners for cyl #2) was a bit green and just plain old, despite testing OK for all earths throughout the entire harness I decided to lightly file then heat up the entire clamp and add a bit of tin, no change to status quo though.

I also put the engine in TDC, extracted the entire distributor, checked if it was alligned (which it was), checked for slack in bearings (there was none) as well as leaks through o-rings (there was none, I can eat food out of this thing) and sensor clearances (within spec), so I reinstalled it, still no change to status quo.

Kind of at a loss here, I tried sending a message to Tweak`d Performance (being told by a friend that they sometimes do the odd job) about making a fresh harness for me if I send them my old one, but alas they simply replied they do no 16v stuff what so ever.

I turned ignition on to check if injectors were getting any power, nada.
I turned ignition on to check if the new igniter was sending any power to the coil, only 6v.. what the..?
Checked with the bunch of older igniters I have, and got around 5,2-5,5v on all of them.
I don`t know what this means though.

As for the AE86, it`s getting better in every respect, the new inserts are as good as expected, I might be imagining it but the newer Bilstein generation feels better valved and less mooshy than the TRD`s in a friends KE70.

And contra the 16v in the wagon, I`m having zero issues with the 20v Blacktop (which a lot of people say is more finicky and more prone to problems than the 16v) in the ae86, it`s as civilized as ever, runs a little rich and pops now and then (especially after heavy load) but from what a friend in Japan tells me (he drives and works on his AE111 every day in same elevation, temps, density and humidity as me) thats exactly what a Blacktop should be like.
Apparently if it seems to be running perfectly you had better start getting worried..

I added a RHD JDM TRD quick shifter to the JDM gearbox (EDM bellhousing), made a new gearshift boot plate and a pretty thick boot, which should eliminate some road noise, I also added a NOS Italvolanti steering wheel (it`s 99% like the cartoon one, but wood-look finish on the center).
I also had my brother help me bleed the brakes, afterwards I took it for a spin and had no issues with either brakes, quick shifter (old transmission but quick shifter still works great with it) or anything else.

I only have to get used to that TRD 2-way LSD, we all know they can sound like clickedy-clacky, but the uniball rear end makes it sound like the diff might break apart

[pack]

What you mean is that the 20V when running properly will give you pop now and then?

I have the same issue on mine..... Always tought it was too rich...

[Rascal21]

(10-07-2015 04:29 PM)pack Wrote:  What you mean is that the 20V when running properly will give you pop now and then?

I have the same issue on mine..... Always tought it was too rich...

Well, if I were you I would not worry too much.
If its running a bit too rich (gasoline showering out of the exhaust and into peoples faces) you can add an adjustable FPR and get to work, I got a Tomei FPR and 16v adapter (which mates well with the 20v also) and started fiddling with pressure, timing and idle adjustment, all in CEL mode, so in the end you get a good enough tune when you rev the piss out of it at idle.
But another thing entirely is when the ECU starts "learning" as you drive on the road (500km or whatever I heard is supposedly what it needs to "learn everything")

Running a little bit rich is apparently good and does no harm as far as I see or hear, rather a little rich and darker combustion chambers than a few tenths lean and melted pistons, also consider that the exhausts we all usually run with actually makes the 20v sound and seem like its running richer than it really is.

I`ve heard stories of commuter fwd 20v`s in far worse internal condition than rwd 20v`s owned by people like us, much like those 2.2 turbo Audi inline 5`s, the 4AGE 20v`s are built to be used and revved a little to stay happy.

Another thing to consider is you have to put your foot down when it goes to fuel pump, you want something that outputs 120lph at the same pressure as a inline Walbro 255 to reduce fuel temperature and all that stuff, I have a Bosch parts number for a inline pump that I`ve been using very successfully on the wagon 16v.

If you`re curious I can post what part number, ideally you should run a electronic carb pump for lift to fill a 2 liter catch tank from the main tank, with that Bosch pump for high pressure, and a vendor Subaru Impreza fuel filter between the Bosch and fuel line, this way you can theoretically (but not recommended for the lift pump) drift/race the main tank empty without leaning out and melting your engine.

I have a vid to share, but want to say my 20v has a heavy AW11 flywheel which put together with the stupid VSV (which I think is there to keep revs up for the A/C and P/S, as well as slow down rpm`s on coast to avoid too much backfire?) makes the VSV spend 5-10 gut wrenching seconds pushing on the throttle quadrant AFTER I let go off it (brand new vacuum hoses, supertight fitment, no leaks).

In this video the engine was cold, there is a little bit of water in the exhaust and I don`t like revving the piss out of it unless I`m actually driving, so I mooshed the quadrant and found the balance to keep the revs at around the VVT-i engagement point (which makes it sound like it`s under a little bit of load).

So lets compare my average RWD 20v conversion (mods are full race + heat wrapped exhaust+ITG foam race filter and P.A.S.S ITB trumpets), with this bone stock, up for sale AE111 Corolla GT with one of the higher revving M/T ECU`s getting the piss revved out of it:

Same idle as mine, same ticking as mine, same rich backfire on coast wind-down rpm as mine, same throttle response as mine.
I think it`s safe to say 20v`s are supposed to be like this.

By that I mean, these are designed to be "racey" little 1587cc (1.6L) engines to cater with the loud FWD "zip along curves" racer culture that fast arised back in the mid to late 90`s all over the world (And to professionally compete with 110-170hp Honda`s, Citroen`s, Peugot`s and VW`s on the track), if yours "poff and pang" a little it`s not doing something it wasnt designed for, I think you can buy adjustable FPR and fiddle a little with it, but you can still go to bed with a clear conscience