Denmark

[Mux213]

Dont forget adrenaline though, I must say, I wouldn't mind a trip in a dual seat top fuel dragster some day. 0-100 in less then 2 seconds, that is an experience.

But I do feel it doesn't have much to do with driving skill, it has to do with how much money you can through into a car and how much guts you have.

Also I find it BOOOOORING to watch then again, I only like watching rallyes anyways

[Jan Pedersen]

As you all know everything gets less exciting after a while - I need more power

The plan for the engine was to go with a std 20V og get a agze drop the super charger and put on a turbo (agte). Neither of the plans are legal, but the turbo is harder to hide. The agte would be able to make ~250 whp with a few mods. However the gearbox and diff isnt the strongest part of the hachi so I might have to use parts from a celica or supra. The agze isnt an option to me, as I dont like the sound of it and it wont give you the kick a agte would :wink:

With that said, I am going to spend quite a bit on handling! I couldnt agree more: Going in a strait line just isnt fun!!

When its finished it wont be using it every day nomore, so I dont have to compromize as I do now...

[robokill]

handeling wise is a 20v blacktop very good tuneable

friend of mine seen one run on

16v AE92 gti ecu with piggyback for ITB's

with some fine tuning it produced 190 hp at the wheels on the rollerbench

the 20V are held in for econmic reasons

[NoHachi]

I once modified a car from 90 stock bhp to 130bhp. Thats a rise of 40bhp or 45%. It wasn't that spectecular to begin with and in about a week most of the novelty had worn of. It could be just me ofcourse..
I also had a similar car to that one (the engine donor) for about a month, but it had a modified suspension. The grin lasted until the day I tore it apart for the engine.

General suggestions for building an all-out go-hachi:
Minimize weight (carbondoors etc look cool aswel as being wonderfully light..might be a bit expensive though.

More importantly, minimize weight where it counts: unsprung weight. The influence is about 3-4 times the influence of sprung weight. Sadly, every solid axle vehicle suffers on this front. Places to improve upon:
Light rims: biggest gain to be had here. Large expenses as well (eg. volk TE37 deepdishes)
Alloy multi pot brake callipers. 2 piece rotors with alloy hub.
Alloy monotube shocks. billstein springs to mind. Affordable as well.

[NoHachi]

Robokill, do you happen to have the dyno printout of that friend of yours?
Check out Bill Sherwoods site and the desk top dyno model he has of the 20V's. With optimal fuelling and spark they produce 140bhp at the wheels. These models are reliable within 10%.
You don't have to limit engine performance for economy. For economy you lean out the part throttle low RPM areas of the fueling maps (where you spend 90% of your driving). The high RPM wide open throttle maps can be as rich as they need without sacrificing this. Toyota knows this and tunes to suit. they are not carburators after all, they can be tuned to suit both needs.
190Hp at the wheels is BS. Thats more than 210bhp at the crank. 1.8l integra typeR engines running monstercams, high comp pistons and standalone's barely see these numbers. And these are factory hand built 9000 RPM engines to boot. Claiming similar numbers for a 4A-GE running less then 11.000 RPM is just silly..

[Mux213]

nohachi,

sweet car in that post

It brings up a totally different question for me.

Why does everyone run without the plastic cover over the distribution belt and can it do any harm to do this because I think it looks super cute

[NoHachi]

They do it because it looks cool and makes it easy to adjust and show of your adjustable cam-timing wheels. You do not want your hands or small rocks etc to get caught in there, so this would be more of a showmod.