GZE Swop with PAS & AC

[Lauren]

Well, after some diagnostics today, the GE was found to only make 50psi on No.4. That spark plug was black too. Other cylinders made >200psi, so I'm guessing it's an issue with the rings.

We happen to have a rebuilt GZE in our shed which was rebuilt three or four years ago (by my fiance and SC Guru, Mark), so we think we may as well go for using that. The rotating assembly was balanced and used all new OEM parts for pretty much everything, so should be good! Is running a Blitz pulley and will likely make around 170bhp. We have a new clutch (everything is OEM) too.

My car currently has PAS and AC (it's a road car and my daily driver). It is my understanding that there was a variant that had a GZE with PAS and AC, so there must be a way to fit all the ancillaries on.

Currently the SC would be where my alternator currently is. I would be interested in anyone who has done the conversion whilst keeping AC and PAS.

We are trying to come up with a list of things that need to worked out.

So far we have;

1. Brackets for all ancillaries to be figured out. Do we need different pulleys, ie double pulleys and the like?
2. Wiring. We have the complete loom from the AW11 including ECU. Engine is from an 87 AW11 SC. Expecting loom will need messing about with.
3. Intercooling. Am guessing that this won't be too much of an issue. Will likely just use the stock AW11 one as airflow ought not to be a problem.
4. Throttle body/intake. Can it be turned through 180degrees, or is fabrication required?
5. Expect I can swop senders over okay as I have a digi-dash.

There are probably a load of other things I haven't thought of, but reckon we'll have around 6 weeks to plan until Mark gets his new workshop premises sorted (expecting mid to late Jan) as I won't be doing all this on my driveway!

Thanks for any help!

[assassin10000]

If you're running an electric fan, that will allow you to use all the MR2/FWD parts (waterpump/pulleys/etc), instead of the RWD waterpump which is stronger/reinforced for the fan clutch. That helps as it keeps the pulleys inline.

I would consider dropping the p/s and just using the a/c & alternator brackets off an MR2 GZE setup, IIRC it will put them both on the left side of the engine. Just some minor rewiring of the engine bay harness for the alternator is necessary, a/c wiring might not need to be touched.

Then you use manual rack specific top-hats (or aftermarket camber plates), and change your caster to somewhere between 3.3-2.5 depending on wheel well clearances vs the stock 3.5-4.0. This will make it easier to steer even though it's manual rack.

If you can source them a set of manual steering knuckles will also make it much easier to turn, but with the loss of steering angle. If you're gonna drift or prefer quicker steering response, keep the p/s knuckles.


Some good info here:
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=90711

The AE92 4agze had all 3 (P/S, A/C & Alt) on the left side BUT the problem is you are putting it in a RWD layout, and the alternator would foul on the swaybar/tension rod bracket IIRC. The guy in the link above said his cut AE92 alt bracket worked, but it was cut to allow the alt to swivel much 'higher' than it would uncut/complete.

Andrew

[Lauren]

Hmm, thanks for that thread, very useful indeed.

I honestly cannot do away with the power steering. I use the car daily, do a lot of three-point turns and parking. I don't have the strength of a man and just cannot manage a manual rack.

So, I will need to find a way. I am currently sourcing the AE92 parts, ie PAS pump and AC compressor and that bracket. Hopefully the alternator mount can be modified to clear the ARB.

Is there not one person who's put in a GZE and kept the PAS and AC?

[assassin10000]

I honestly don't know... If I did I'd tell you .

Andrew

[Lauren]

LOL! I know, Andrew, thanks anyway.

[Lauren]

Mark (my fiancee) has had a brilliant idea! We are looking to put the alternator where the idler is on the SC side, so it'd go below the supercharger.

Looks like there is a small denso alternator that will do the job, is a racing one with a 50A output (stock is 60), but this thing is tiny. Might need a bigger battery. A bigger alternator pulley will be needed and it'll be running on the outside of the belt. Hopefully a bigger pulley will help prevent slip and provide more area for the belt to grip. It's a bit experimental, but it is a great solution if it works.

This will mean no messing about with my existing PAS and AC (which all works fine) we can just bolt it to the new engine.

In other related news, Mark has done the deal on his new premises and looks to be moving in a bit sooner than we expected.

We still have some potential issues with regard to where to run the intercooler piping, though we'll nip over to where we've stored the car today and have a better look as it may be that the drier pipework for the AC is in the way.

[assassin10000]

You could also do a 'custom' bracket to relocate the alternator under the S/C, and then use an 'idler/tensioner' in between the two to create a serpentine style setup. Which would do a lot more to prevent belt slip.

I don't think that the back of these belts will have anywhere NEAR enough grip to NOT slip. Plus with how low the S/C already hangs, it looks like the ALT may be just as low, if hung below the S/C as it is below the A/C.

Andrew

[Lauren]

Apparently one of the Irish guys bought a car with a GZE already in it and imported it over. He said that the alternator is below the SC, so it must be possible.

Will take on board what you say about belts and additional idlers.

[Lauren]

Latest plan is to try fitting an additional water pump pulley turned the other way round to the existing (AW11) water pump pulley. This will then be used to drive a slave belt for the alternator which we are looking to use a 'racing' one that is tiny and generates 50A (stock is 60A).

We will still look to mount it below the SC.

[heshan]

Hi, I have a 4agze with A/C and PS.