How do you make your handbrake lockup?

[jamiemirror]

Kristian, this is a picture of fuel surge tank, not handbrake - I think :-)

[Ivan141]

So true...

[KristianAE86]

jamiemirror Wrote:Kristian, this is a picture of fuel surge tank, not handbrake - I think :-)

I know man

it also says - pics shortly

[auxoura]

what happened to the pictures shortly...

[KristianAE86]

auxoura Wrote:what happened to the pictures shortly...

I honestly forgot.

here is the vrite-up.

buy this item from british http://WWW.RALLYDESIGN.CO.UK

Hydraulic Handbrake Conversion Kit
[RD3624] £37.50

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/pro...ts_id=4092

Then find the rear going brakeline.

Just before it attaches to the rear axle there is a coupling.(split)

screw this apart & attach an 100cm new brakeline to each of the splitted brakeslines.

The line that comes from the master brake cylinder will be attached to the rear of the handbrakecylinder - & the other brakeline will attached to the front of the cylinder.

for the handbrake cylinder, you must find a way of attaching it to the cars body / stock handbrake mounts.


Now all you have to do is to bleed the rear brakes & you will have an HYDRAULIC HANDBRAKE in your car.

please observe - do NOT pull handbrake & then press fotbrake without letting go of handbrake


kristian[/b]

[TE71corolla]

pfffff i dont even HAVE a handbrake in my driftcar

so i dont need this

[banpei]

I've added the writeup on the frontpage.

Reminds me: I still have to add the 7A-GE writeup there.

[SutteR]

Hi,

why don't press the brake pedal until the handbrake is not fully released? I don't get the point...

[kid]

Hey guys...just get this baby..

http://www.isa-racing.de

thats the one I just bought... stunning quality!!!

[assassin10000]

Try this: Its my post from club4ag.com
http://forums.club4ag.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=136537

With how well my hand/e-brake works after this I see ABSOLUTELY no reason for me to go the hydraulic route - it works that awesome.

Quote:Well since I've seen several post in regards to a poorly working e-brake/hand/parking brake - I'm posting this just to let everyone know I found that my 'way' of adjusting the rear brakes and parking/e-brake's to significantly improve how well the parking brake/hand brake works.

Mine stops the car from rolling with 2 clicks up if I'm stopped and on level ground. And not much further up when rolling/driving which is very nice if I need it to initiate or mid drift.. No need to use the regular brakes with, dive the car, weight transfer or anything else, it just grabs really well.

(I'm currently using pbr pads, bradi drilled/slotted rotors. But that shouldn't matter as far as the adjustment goes. I probably loose some initial 'bite' due to the loss of braking surface area due to the drilling/slotting on these small rotors.)

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Here's the written steps/How to adjust the parking/e-brake my way:

1. Jack up rear of car, remove the rear wheels. Be sure to use jack stands.

2. Undo the nut on the center cable and get as much slack as possible. (hand/park brake cable adjustment nut - on my vehicle I removed the top nut so I no longer need to remove the center console to adjust it, just put a deep 10mm socket down inside and turn)

3. Remove the brake caliper retaining/slide bolt on the bottom of the rear caliper. Rotate the caliper forward and slide back slightly for access.

4. Turn the brake adjuster in atleast 1 full turn (more is OK). Make sure to line up the notch/groove/slot openings on the caliper piston with the pin/tab on the brake pads. Slide caliper back on and put the bolt in a few threads by hand. (if this is the first time you've had your rear calipers off go ahead and turn it all the way down till it's basicly flush with the caliper, it wont hurt anything and helps free up the piston/adjusters)

5. Here's the trick to the adjustment.

A) pull the e-brake cable adjusting lever on the brake caliper towards you so you KNOW its all the way off. (after adjustment this gives you the most leverage/range of movement/clamping force)

B) Pull the whole caliper assembly towards the outside of the car (towards you) and push between the caliper fingers on the brake pads inward (away from you) so space/slack is visible between the rear brake caliper/fingers and brake pad on the outside.

C) Have someone LIGHTLY flutter the brake pedal so it forces the caliper piston out a little at a time.

What that will do is force the caliper out little by little and as it comes out and then back it rotates. The adjuster/opening on the piston will catch the notch and "auto" adjust the rear caliper correctly. You should have little to no space left after the adjustment.

6. REPEAT for the other side (can be done one side at a time) & install bolts for the rear calipers.

7. Reinstall wheels and put back on the ground.

8. Now you can tighten up the nut in the console hand-brake to the point where about 2-3 clicks up it will stop the vehicle from rolling.

Test drive - even if it doesn't work quite as well as mine it should be significantly improved.

NOTE: I do have 3 new e-brake cables and a new handle, but it locked up fine with the old cables as well.

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Here's the PHOTO guide which should help all the visual thinkers...







EDIT: It helps if you spin the piston in about 1/8-1/4 turn past the marks where it lines up and then back it out. Something to do with the design of the adjuster inside the caliper. Be sure to do so.





Post up you're results, if done correctly you'll be suprised and happy with how it works... or so I hope after typing all this out. EDIT: and now taking pictures, cropping and editing.