Krullibulls Ae86 BEAMS is the only way

[krullibull]

(11-03-2015 09:20 AM)georgee Wrote:  Nice project! And I'm really jealous you can change the engine legally even if it comes with certain conditions.

We can't do that... I've just sent an inquiry to the local Toyota dealer and they told me I can only drop in engine that has the same code and kw output and if I wanted to change the chassis for less rusty one, the first 8 digits of both my car and the donor's VIN must be identical

That sucks! . We have quite good rules over here for modified vehicles fortunately.

Did some work last weekend and this one grinded all the joints in the front end for stitch welding.





Started welding today with the hopes of getting most of it done. But there was barely any progress made. I've never welded metal that behaved like this. No matter what I do it "explodes" and disappear, used my TIG first then I borrowed a MIG but results were the same.

Managed to get some crappy welds done tho.





Got my candy from SQ aswell

// Johan

[Bean]

I'm currently (on holiday right now) also trying my best on stich welding the chassis. The metal is very very thin, i.e. 1/16 (1.5mm) wire/rod is too thick and needs too much heat. I managed to get better results (that's for TIG, still need to test with mig for some areas) with a 1/32 electrode and 0.7mm wire, using the pedal and max of 35Amps
Hope this helps. Also thoroughly clean the surface, also the underside if possible

[georgee]

I don't like what I read here haha...

I was going to stitchweld the chassis while I'm swapping the good driveline into the good chassis... Will have to try both TIG and MIG

[krullibull]

(11-16-2015 12:55 AM)Bean Bandit Wrote:  I'm currently (on holiday right now) also trying my best on stich welding the chassis. The metal is very very thin, i.e. 1/16 (1.5mm) wire/rod is too thick and needs too much heat. I managed to get better results (that's for TIG, still need to test with mig for some areas) with a 1/32 electrode and 0.7mm wire, using the pedal and max of 35Amps
Hope this helps. Also thoroughly clean the surface, also the underside if possible

Hmm. I might have to try using smaller electrode. Tried with both red and purple 1.6mm @ 20-40A. Don't have a pedal unfortunately and I've cleaned it as good as I possibly can.

The way I found worked best was to just leave the filler rod in the joint and run over it. That worked "ok" but then some areas the weld would "explode" and the electrode ball up. Same with MIG, the metal would disappear before I could even get anywhere near it (I really suck at MIG so I don't really know if it was 100% right).

(11-16-2015 08:57 PM)georgee Wrote:  I don't like what I read here haha...

I was going to stitchweld the chassis while I'm swapping the good driveline into the good chassis... Will have to try both TIG and MIG

Yea it was a real bummer. Thought it was going to be a "easy" job. Crappy Japanese steel

[Ivan141]

It's mostly such a pain in the behind because it's impossible to clean the seam you are welding.
I get reasonable results using my MIG at a low setting.. .but you really need to spend some time cleaning the metal.
If you think AE86 sheetmetal is hard to weld, try an MX-5. In comparison an 86 is easy.
Also the MIG you use makes a lot of difference as well.. I have an italian Cebora welder and it is relatively friendly to use whilst a mate of mine has a deca (also italian) which takes a lot more practice.

[krullibull]

Got my 1.0mm electrodes this friday and what a difference it made! . Went from totally unweldable to manageable, still some bad spots but it went together

Didn't have time to do more then almost both wheelhouses.

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(11-17-2015 03:38 AM)Ivan141 Wrote:  It's mostly such a pain in the behind because it's impossible to clean the seam you are welding.
I get reasonable results using my MIG at a low setting.. .but you really need to spend some time cleaning the metal.
If you think AE86 sheetmetal is hard to weld, try an MX-5. In comparison an 86 is easy.
Also the MIG you use makes a lot of difference as well.. I have an italian Cebora welder and it is relatively friendly to use whilst a mate of mine has a deca (also italian) which takes a lot more practice.

Yea it's not ideal welding conditions but if you're stubborn enough it'll go together ok. Yes there's a big difference between machines and also torches. I really like my TIG torch compared to the usual style that my garage friend has.

[Bean]

glad I could help, I hope to make some progress too once I'm back from the holidays. What TIG welder do you have? I got a Miller Diversion 180 and it's a good beginner/intermmediate machine. I'll upgrade eventually but for now it's fine.

[McGlinchey]

Very nice build!

[krullibull]

Did some more work this weekend. Really had hoped I'd be fitting the engine by now but there's still time i guess







Decided that it was probably best to remove all the stuff from the firewall before I start welding there. Also found about 1kg of asphalt mats and some light rust under it.

If I feel that I have the time I might rewire the whole car.

Not much left to weld either. Should definitely be done with it next weekend now that I really have it figured out.

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(11-24-2015 01:45 PM)Bean Bandit Wrote:  glad I could help, I hope to make some progress too once I'm back from the holidays. What TIG welder do you have? I got a Miller Diversion 180 and it's a good beginner/intermmediate machine. I'll upgrade eventually but for now it's fine.

It was a huge help! Also found that making a long point on the electrode worked better (think wooden spear).

I have a Kemppi MinarcTig 180. It's in the same range as yours but the only thing I feel it's lacking is a pulse function. The torch I'm using is Kemppi TTC 160S and I would buy a new one in a heartbeat if this one breaks.

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(11-25-2015 12:31 PM)McGlinchey Wrote:  Very nice build!

Thanks!

[krullibull]

Things have been moving along in a ok pace. Changed the timing belt and pulleys on the engine and got it test fitted in the car. Hoping to get the mounts done soon as I'm off work.





Pictures of the finished welding and the KJB braces.



Engine torn down. The belt and pulleys were in better condition then I thought but now they're changed anway, always good with some peace of mind.



Just a pic for the future to prove that it's a MT engine.



All nice and together. Could really use a serious cleaning but that will have to wait.







Found out that there are engine hooks available from Toyota, made lifting the engine soo much easier . Also going to back the cables up so that they end up at the back of the engine.



Cut the excess aluminum of the sump. In hindsight I cut of way more then I needed but more on that later.





Changed out the inner tierods to some Nagasai auto I've had laying around for some time but never got around to fitting.



Got a bit distracted and cut of the flange on the manifold with a plasma.









This is were the engine will end up more or less. I've not lowered the subframe at all and moved the engine so far back that the shifter will end up in the bracing behind the shifter hole even with the linkage being in it's front position . As for the sump bracing I really only would have needed to cut less then half of it.


// Johan