MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
05-09-2008, 06:30 PM
Post: #11
MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
Doesnt matter how you connect the injector pairs, those two outputs on the ECU are connected internally on the ECU's pcb, so it fires them all at the same time anyway.

FABRICA MI DIEM, PVNC!
Visit this user's website Find all posts by this user
05-09-2008, 07:40 PM
Post: #12
MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
You check your grounds on the ignitor or the intake manifold?

Fully Restored 1985 Corolla GT-S
1987 328ci SR20DET Drift Car
1989 Honda Civic Si-R Current Project
2002 Corolla CE Daily Driver

http://www.TheTunerSource.com
Find all posts by this user
05-09-2008, 09:50 PM
Post: #13
MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
Ivan141 Wrote:Doesnt matter how you connect the injector pairs, those two outputs on the ECU are connected internally on the ECU's pcb, so it fires them all at the same time anyway.

Very true that is why I have it wired the way it is now due to all four of the injectors being fired at the same time. It is unlike the USDM 4AGE-C where the injectors are paired which I found out after I looked at the wireing diagram. Im going to check the fuel pressure. I have a bad feeling it maybe my pump or something not letting enough pressure to be built up or something..
Find all posts by this user
05-10-2008, 12:00 AM
Post: #14
MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
Quote:Doesnt matter how you connect the injector pairs, those two outputs on
the ECU are connected internally on the ECU's pcb, so it fires them all at
the same time anyway.

I am aware of this Tongue However, if you are using a factory loom, the
downstream side of the injectors will be wired as I described, and can
be traced to make sure there is no wiring problem.

But the main point I was trying to make, is that when using the ballast
resistor, there are two separate feeds out of the resistor, each feeding
two injectors. If you wire the two outputs of the ballast together, the
internal resistors will be in parallel instead of in series. Therefore your
injector circuit resistance will be wrong.

By all means check that the igniter has a good earth, and certainly check
that the earth on the head is secure... both are common causes of
poor/erratic running.

Cheers... jondee86
Find all posts by this user
05-10-2008, 12:14 AM
Post: #15
MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
Ah, very good point about those resistors ending up parallel. That's something you shouldnt mess up, ECU's built for high-Z injectors dont live long if you use them with low impedance injectors.

May I ask how the car idles when it is started? If it runs like crap, then something is likely to be very wrong. If it idles smoothly, but dies when revving, then it might be a smaller problem altogether.
Also, put your nose next to the exhaust next time you get it idling.. if it smells pig-rich, you can assume it's not the pump that's causing you problems (unless the circuit opening relay is not working properly that is, but you can rule this out by just jumping a permanent 12v source to the pump).

FABRICA MI DIEM, PVNC!
Visit this user's website Find all posts by this user
05-10-2008, 10:03 AM
Post: #16
MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
It will start and run( Idle ) fine sounds normal to me no sputtering or anything as far as I can tell. and it will run for a good minute maybe alittle more and then die. However this is running with the Injector Resistor wires tied together and then tapped into the yellow injector wire. I will rewire it as stated above and see if that helps...
But Ivan to answer your question it seems to be idling fine. It will idle at 1500rpm or so.. Not every time but some times it will sorta flux in idle like.. 1500..then drop to around 1400 or 1300 rpm and back up to 1500rpm kinda like a wah wah wah fluxing if that makes any since at all. Confused But I think it started to do that only after I had started it and idled it, killed it and started it again and repeated while tinkering with it.. But in the long run it doesnt seem to bad while idling..

As I said before I will rewire it and post up later on if that helped or not.. Just a thought that crossed my mind.. It wouldnt have anything to do with the TPS would it? just thinking that maybe that is why it kills over if you try to give it gas.. but maybe Im over thinking it abit to much.
Find all posts by this user
05-10-2008, 12:06 PM
Post: #17
MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
Hmmm.... there is one thing that might be worth checking while
you are under the hood. Pull the return hose off the fuel rail and
make sure there is fuel being returned to the tank when the engine
is cranked. Should squirt everywhere, so be careful !!!

Cheers... jondee86
Find all posts by this user
05-10-2008, 09:45 PM
Post: #18
MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
jondee86 Wrote:Hmmm.... there is one thing that might be worth checking while
you are under the hood. Pull the return hose off the fuel rail and
make sure there is fuel being returned to the tank when the engine
is cranked. Should squirt everywhere, so be careful !!!

Cheers... jondee86

That is a negative.. No fuel going out of the fuel rail being returned to the tank.. what does that mean?... Could that be my problem, whatever it is? Crying
Find all posts by this user
05-11-2008, 12:17 AM
Post: #19
MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
If the return hose is dry, you probably are not getting a proper fuel
supply to the rail. If there is fuel coming to the rail (pull one of the
hoses and check), then the problem may be with the fitting of the
pulsation damper (assuming that you have one).

The pulsation damper looks much like the FPR, but without a vacuum
hose. It attaches at the front of the fuel rail, on top of the banjo fitting
that brings fuel into the rail. Above and below the banjo fitting are
copper washers. One of them (the top one) is a thin washer with "teeth"
on the inside diameter. If this has been replaced by a plain washer
that is a close fit on the bolt, it can severely restrict the flow of fuel
into the rail.

If you don't have a pulsation damper, check for a blocked fuel filter,
kinked hose or flattened hard line. Disconnect the hoses one at a time
working away from the fuel tank, until you find the point where you
lose flow/pressure.

Cheers... jondee86

PS: Going down the shed to check some of this stuff now Tongue
Find all posts by this user
05-11-2008, 01:49 AM
Post: #20
MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
Hmm This could be the problem! I think Im going to maybe just get a new damper.. What I did was replace the damper and the FPR with the ones from my GTS motor. However the GTS one was leaking alittle. BUT.. Seemed like It maybe made alittle difference. But however it was still killing over upon trying the throttle. The washer had gotten messed up when I took the GTS damper back off.. Do you have a pic of the ' Teethed " Washer that is supposed to be on there. I dont think that mine had it. ..

to me it looked like the Inside of the washer was flanged out on both sides but im not sure that is what you mean.. If you have a pic that may help.. Im sure If I can get a replacement damper at a autoparts store it will come with some but I want to be sure.
Find all posts by this user


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  No idle below 2000 rpm rich running Steller Engineering 3 1,410 11-30-2022 02:45 PM
Last Post: RolanTHUNDER
  Red top in the ae86 gh0st 25 10,219 08-08-2022 08:43 PM
Last Post: gh0st
  Running issues sam3007 6 2,736 06-26-2022 01:34 PM
Last Post: Dave W
  Replacing Top Windscreen Moulding chrisae86 2 1,968 06-18-2022 08:56 PM
Last Post: chrisae86
  4age 16v running roughly - diagnostics shows unknown code Ryo 8 7,185 11-09-2020 10:51 AM
Last Post: totta Crolla

Forum Jump:


User(s) browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)

Contact Us | AEU86 | Return to Top | Return to Content | Lite (Archive) Mode | RSS Syndication