New member from the Netherlands.

[IBMFD3S]

Hello all!

My name is Andreas and i'm from the Netherlands. I bought the Levin which was for sale from LevinGT here @ the forum and i love the car already!!!
ibmfd3s? Stands for Innocent Blue Mica FD3S: i have one so i don't work for IBM .

Well, following the ae86 scene for some years now and i like the car more than other cars because it's a nice model and i like the power capabilities of the engine besides the handling. Because of that i want to investigate a high revving engine like Dori-Dori drives in the Option videos. 4age? black top? silver top? no idea yet what is a good base for such an engine, guess i have to read some threads ...

It is new for me that i have to look for valves, pistons, cams, belts and i don't know the difference yet between a 4age and a 4agze. Only thing i know is that some engines are 16 valve and some 20 valve equipped.
I don't know what's a black top and what's a silver top and which is better for reliable 9000 rpm (which i easily reach with my modded 13B-REW). I have some reading to do here and @ other forums lol.

I have several cars with a 12A or 13B-REW in it but pistons are new to me and it is difficult as piston engines have so many parts in the engine

Well, I'm going to restore the Levin that i bought from Seth so that it is reliable as a daily driver and visit trackdays once it's finished.

If there are (International) meetings i'll be visiting those events when i have the time.

/edit: my homepage is http://www.brap-brap-brap.com
/edit: Levin it is

[oldskull]

First welcome Andreas! and second it is Levin not Trueno.

BTW keep the car in good condition and hope you like to drive the 20 year old corolla like us

[Mux213]

Hey Andreas old friend,

Nice to see another rotorhead switch sides

Engine types:
4A -> Engine type of our nice engines (the whole range of them including the 8v, 16v, 20v, if it start with 4A, it will fit one way or another)
GE -> Fuel injected twin cam version
GZE -> Fuel injected supercharged twin cam
GTE -> doesn't actually exist The name we enthousiasts give to any turbo charged 4AG, usually a GZE converted to turbo.

Then bluetop, redtop, silvertop and blacktop are names that you will often hear. The refer to the color of the camshaft covers on our 4AG engines and are a less then reliable way to recognize the type of engine. The problem offcourse is that these covers are interchangeable and especially with the bluetop/redtop engines Toyota themselves have mixed and matched....

Bluetop engines usually are the early model big port 16v twincams found in most AE86s. You can also recognise these engines because they have the TVIS valve that closes part of the ports at low RPA (very similar system to the 5+6 port system on N/A FCs).

Redtop engines usually are the later model small port 16v twincams found in later AE86s (I think) and later model FWD Corolla's. These engine's no longer have the TVIS but are tuned slightly better so the give a slightly higher output then the Bluetop. It does have stronger and larger conrods and this makes the engine a tiny bit less quick on the throttle.

There is also the important factor that at some point in time Toyota switched from a bottom end that can be visually recognized by 3 'ribs' running down the lenght, and the later 7 'rib' model. The 7 rib model obviously being stronger and better.

So we get to silvertop, silvertops are the first generation 20v 4AG engines. Basically the same engine with a new head design and a whole new engine management system. Also these engines have ITB's yum yum.

Blacktops are the second generation 20v 4AG engines in which Toyota addressed certain small problems and gave the engine a few HP more.

When you look at tuning obviously silvertop and blacktop engines are the most powerful to start with, but these engines are harder to tune. Over 10k rpm has been reached with these engines but it will cost you.

However, if I where you I'd start with the car itself first, suspension, drive train, bodywork. If you drop in a powerful engine in the chassis you have now its asking for trouble
Besides, let the standard 4AG surprise you, even stock it revs to 7k8 very nicely and enjoyably

[adomz]

hello and welcome man!
hope you'll like it here!

adam

[banpei]

Welcome!
You can also put a rotary in that hachi. Has been done before. >

[Mux213]

banpei Wrote:Welcome!
You can also put a rotary in that hachi. Has been done before. >

Yeah but if you put anything other then a 4 piston engine in, you get into trouble with the RDW here in Holland....

Yesterday Andreas visited me with his new car. I've seen it a couple of times before when I met Seth but never gotten a chance to actually drive the car.

I have to say, I was very pleasently surprised by it in all respects. I knew Seth had put alot of work into welding the car some years back and knew the body work needs to be finished from there. Now its a matter of doing the last bit of welding, fixing returned surface rust and getting it properly painted. Except for the usual bootlid and door problems all the serious stuff looks like its been properly fixed.

The car currently stands on real crappy tires that have little grip and are HUGE. New tires have been ordered and I think this will make a world of difference.

What did pleasently surprise me was the mechanics. Andreas was worried about sounds from his diff but I didn't really hear much. I have to add to that that the sound of his ricy muffler has a bit to do with that so once he's got a nicer exhaust you may here it more clearly but I dont think he has to worry about this.

I did not have a chance to try out the diff itself, Andreas is not a fan of drifting and I don't want to take any chances with another persons car. But at one point taking a sharp corner the rear wheels did sounded like they lost traction and it felt more like an open diff then an LSD, but this could simply be due to the crappy tires on the car. Winter tires squeel much more easily and still have 'grip' when you think they are spinning.

The gear box and clutch feel alot better then my car, you wouldn't give those the 300k km on the odo.

The engine.... damn that engine. Most hachi's I've driven that have 300k on the odo you can feel the engine is getting old. but this one.. it misses a slight bit of power in the low end but once those tvis valves open, it brings a BIG BIG smile on your face. I'm pretty sure the low end power is there but the engine just needs to get a small tuneup. I don't think there is much power diffference between my car and his, and mine has only driven half as much in its life time.
Anyways, technically I'd give this car a 9 for sure, I would not think this engine as been in this car for 300k km.

All in all, this car is a good base to continue on. Yes the body work is going to take some effort to finish if you want it done properly, but it has much potential for sure.

[IBMFD3S]

Mux213 Wrote:Yesterday Andreas visited me with his new car. I've seen it a couple of times before when I met Seth but never gotten a chance to actually drive the car.

I have to say, I was very pleasently surprised by it in all respects. I knew Seth had put alot of work into welding the car some years back and knew the body work needs to be finished from there. Now its a matter of doing the last bit of welding, fixing returned surface rust and getting it properly painted. Except for the usual bootlid and door problems all the serious stuff looks like its been properly fixed.

glad you gave a thumbs up for the body!

Quote:The car currently stands on real crappy tires that have little grip and are HUGE. New tires have been ordered and I think this will make a world of difference.

the Hatchi stood on tired 185/65-15 wintertires















of course ordered them through this forum so the forum gets a part of the money.
i like the grip on dry tarmac and not much noise. i find them very sticky in the corners but of course can't go to far with the car as i don't know the car too well and don't want to damage/total it. yet have to drive them in the rain to see how the tires behave in those conditions...

Quote:What did pleasently surprise me was the mechanics. Andreas was worried about sounds from his diff but I didn't really hear much. I have to add to that that the sound of his ricy muffler has a bit to do with that so once he's got a nicer exhaust you may here it more clearly but I dont think he has to worry about this.

will be looking for a nicer not so ricer sounding and looking catback in the very near future.

Quote:I did not have a chance to try out the diff itself, Andreas is not a fan of drifting and I don't want to take any chances with another persons car. But at one point taking a sharp corner the rear wheels did sounded like they lost traction and it felt more like an open diff then an LSD, but this could simply be due to the crappy tires on the car. Winter tires squeel much more easily and still have 'grip' when you think they are spinning.

i'm a grip man and i want a sort of 'ultimate grip and response machine' for on the road and @ trackdays

Quote:The gear box and clutch feel alot better then my car, you wouldn't give those the 300k km on the odo.

i was surprised that a 21 year old car has such good mechanics after 300k but of course it's a Toy so enough reserve is in the parts.

Quote:The engine.... damn that engine. Most hachi's I've driven that have 300k on the odo you can feel the engine is getting old. but this one.. it misses a slight bit of power in the low end but once those tvis valves open, it brings a BIG BIG smile on your face. I'm pretty sure the low end power is there but the engine just needs to get a small tuneup. I don't think there is much power diffference between my car and his, and mine has only driven half as much in its life time.
Anyways, technically I'd give this car a 9 for sure, I would not think this engine as been in this car for 300k km.

i was pleasantly surprised to hear that when Bas was driving the car. i know it has to get some fuel tuning when WOT and i hope to have that fixed in near future.
when WOT the engine is like drowning to my idea, far too much fuel. the catback spits out black powder so pig rich. if driving and giving WOT the car goes fast but lifting the pedal a bit gives the engine less fuel and the car goes faster forward. so there is some progress to be made.
anyone experience here in the Netherlands?

Quote:All in all, this car is a good base to continue on. Yes the body work is going to take some effort to finish if you want it done properly, but it has much potential for sure.

will restore the car in the near future to a solid example of a 21 years old Hatchi.



new bushings are ordered. the only suspension mod is yellow Koni's @ the back.
so i could:
a) yellow Koni's @ the front and APEX springs around
b) fit a coilover set

don't know yet for sure but i think i'll go for option a) so anyone in NL has some yellow Koni's for @ the front for me?

[IBMFD3S]

banpei Wrote:Welcome!
You can also put a rotary in that hachi. Has been done before. >

thanks for the welcome!
then i'll have to change the gearbox and the diff and so too because i like the stock 12A or 13B but i like revving the crap out of it. and with a 180+ horsepower 10k rpm bridged Wankel on the stock drivetrain ... i guess it's a no-no.

[IBMFD3S]

oldskull Wrote:BTW keep the car in good condition and hope you like to drive the 20 year old corolla like us

i like the car more and more... i knew the driving in a Hatchi is pleasant but now i'm impressed.
furthermore it makes me laugh! driving around with my wintertires and ricer catback seemed to give me the opportunity to race 2 other cars, one Golf TDI and a new Mini. both lost to my surprise.

fun factor is high!!

[Mux213]

Since you're using this car as a dialy driver I would go with the APEX/KONI setup myself. You've driven in my car and the sort of suspension we talked about that you were looking at are even stiffer then my car is set at atm.

Then again, you also mentioned you go out to the track from time to time and you may find APEX to soft then.