Old Fashioned

[Ivan141]

Let me rephrase that, wrong braking/throttle in corners. The way you set the car to enter the corner is crucial to getting under or oversteer. Usually you get better steering responce by shifting more weight to the front of the car (letting go of the brake just after steering in). You can change it a bit by tuning your suspension but your better off learning how to get the car to steer correctly when it doesnt want to do so automatically.

[Apolan]

note to ivan.. the car hasnt been washed ever since it was departed. =)

anyway, back to the problem. the car understeers at 5 km/h.. its probably the wheel alignment+too stiff shocks+sucky tyres.. maybe understeer isnt the right word, the front setup just feels ackward..

the shocks are standard. only the front have been stiffened.. than i had them un-stiffened, and its still bad. actually its so stiff i dond believe it can ever be un-stiffened.. so i wanted to know how expensive is a new set of shocks.. maybe those from a mk2 celica supra. we have one here on a junkyard. are those a direct fit? does anybody else have a pair of front standard hachi shocks extra?

can somebody write some prices for new kyb, koni, tokico sets? ppros cons..

i havent driven it much, far from pushing it. as said b4 wheel alignment must be done first , because the caster diference between left and right is like 2 cm's.. =)

engine feels great most of the time. its very fast. good torque too. most of the time... sometimes when i open wot it kinda stalls/jerks for a while than jumps like hell. it feels like a fueling problem. thou ther is no such problem revving the engine in neutral up to 7500 or so.. i also dont hear any detonation, it feels like there just isnt enough juice coming in. what can this be?

i have a VW fuel pump, which is located outside of the fuel tank. maybe that could be causing some problems?

ps: also the rear "back-up" lights work all the time. it doesnt matter if the car is in reverse or not. the just go on as i turn the key. i tried connecting those two wires that go on to the transmission manually - no effect! help?

tnx a lot! cu!

[Kas]

Kas Wrote:I'am intersted for Celica/Supra wheels if offset is corect.

[Apolan]

hello brothers =)

today, all the hard work i have invested in my hachi finally started to pay off. i had done the wheel alignment, and all the problems have gone away. the car rides perfectly! =) i looove it!

the wheel alignment wwas waaay off.. i knew it was, but 20' degrees toe-in is crazy =) also i had almost 2' to much caster on right front wheel...

also the jerking problem has been fixed. i checked the lead on my fuel pump as Dreja suggested (arigato =)), and the connector was just barely hanging on.. thats why i had those problems at fulll throttle. now the engine revs smoothly and lively. also the car feels very torquey and very light.

i just have to fix the exhaust and thats it. =)

q: is there a way to adjust the "stiffness" of the gear shift knob, so it would be a bit harder to shift.. it feels a bit to light i think. is this okay?

q2: how are the brakes on your 86s? mine are pretty soft, and i have to really floor the brake peddal in order to get the best of it..

ZaX, Kas have you tried out those brake lines that i provided? are they good?

tnx, bai.

PS: kas if you are still interested in those wheels i shall get the number of the scrapyard and you can make a deal.

[Mux213]

Apolan,

I have no idea about the gear knob, mine shifts like a knife through butter once its warm

As for the braking. I had this with my hachi aswell. I changed the brake pads and bled the brakes and it even worsened but after driving it for a week or so my brake became rock hard. Only during my trip to the nurburgring it went downhill but now they feel great.

My suggestion to you is check out your pads, if they are warn replace them, if they aren't warn out then possibly you just need to bleed your brakes and give it a few days of regular driving. Esp if the pads are new they probably need to wear in.

Also keep in mind that if your pads have been sitting unused on your car for a long time their quality may have gone down aswell..

[Apolan]

mux yes my brake pads are new, thou they have been sitting wrapped in a package for couple of yrs.. and i have bled the brakes...

do i have to bleed all 4 ends at the same time?

maybe they just need running in.. i have only done some 40 kms so far..

[dreja]

Apolan, have you already got number plates (passed the mot, etc) or you drive illegaly?

Andrej

[Mux213]

Apolan, please no, just one at a time.

If they are new, then your brakes just need to wear in a bit. Drive around with it a few days, you should feel the brakes getting stiffer as the pads wear in...

[NoHachi]

Ivan knows this a lot better then i do, but squishy brakes could be any number of problems..Someone should post a solution algorithm in the general archives section of the site, I'm sure that they can be found somewhere in some book.
It would probably look something like:
1. New pads: allow a few days for bedding in.
2. Change fluid and bleed brakes
3. Check fluid reservoir for bubbles -> bleed brake master cylinder
4. Check all connections for leaks
5. Replace brake cylinders and boots
6. Replace BMC

I'm sure I'm forgetting lots of things, but you get my point..Feel free to correct and expand the above.

[Ivan141]

I still havent got rid of the squishy brakes...my car brakes like shit..
I have rebuilt my calipers and master cilinder.
Next on my list is replacing the master cilinder with a professionally reconditioned one (40 dollars...gotta love ebay), and put new brakediscs on the car. Eventually I'm going to add some mintex pads but the standard pads I put on 2 years ago are still not worn out..