Old Fashioned
08-11-2007, 08:22 PM
Post: #151
Old Fashioned
Okay today we opened the bottom end as well and I have found my culprit! The number one con-rod to crankshaft bearing has totally siezed - it actually "grabbed" the crankshaft and was sliding on the outer side - so the friction was between con-rod and the bearing instead of the bearing-cranckshaft. I have never seen that before. Obviously the engine was rebuild before by some of the previous owners as no gaskets were used, only the silicon/gasket material.. not to mention the bolts were tightened on random setting Confused

So couple of questions (hopefully i can get some pics up soon):

1.) Is the crankshaft factory termically worked? Because my crankshaft is a bit blueish where the con-rods are - not in the middle, where the bearing is, but on both sides of the bearing..

2.) Are conrods thermically worked? They are also a bit blueish.

Im trying to work out if thats normal, or if my bottom end is totally messed up and i should just get a new engine..

3.) My pistons only have the number "2" on them and the letter "C". Does that mean they are the standard 81mm? They are exactly like this one (only a very black): http://www.aeu86.org/download/ae86/id/6844

3.1)Some of the pistons are a little chipped on the top edge (maybe 0.5 mm crack/dent.. Is this too wrong?

4.) Is it common that number one bearing siezes? Is this bearing mybe more prone to oil-starvation than the rest?

5.) What could be the reason of seizure? Ithink that just about anything might be the reason, as this engine was obviously not properly built..

Havent taken the crankshaft and the oil pump off yet.. hopefully that will be tomorrow along with some pics.

So what can you say from my description guys? Thanks for all the help!

Regards, sašo
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08-14-2007, 12:37 AM
Post: #152
Old Fashioned
buuump anyone? really wanna know..
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08-14-2007, 01:04 AM
Post: #153
Old Fashioned
hey apolan,

toss away the pistons. Measure the cylinder wall (should be somewhere around 81 81.10 mm) See if its round or egg shaped.

The crankshaft could be polished. If it has no dmg (carvins etc) it should be no problem. You must order the correct bearings for it.

Order some new bolts as if these bolts aren't turned to the correct setting it could have caused them to become worn or weak.

(get some arps)

The rods are the question.

To be honest I would bring the bottom end away to a shop and see if they can fix it. Just let them do the bottom end. Will also give you some warrant and the correct engine. You can supply them with the correct info.

If none of the pistons says..

0.5 (means oversize should be on the top of the piston) than its standard. But as we say " need to measure to be sure"

Cars:
"99 Lexus IS200
"86 AE86 Kouki Panda Levin GT-Apex (restore project)
"84 AE86 Zenki Blue Levin (project racer)
Motorcycles:
"02 Yamaha R1
"02 Honda Hornet S
"08 BMW R1200GS
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08-14-2007, 06:50 AM
Post: #154
Old Fashioned
If any parts have seen enough heat to turn blue... they are no longer viable parts. The crank might be able to get turned, but only a machinist will know for SURE. I'd STRONGLY recommend a new short block(short block = the entire lower part of the engine)

#2 pistsons - there are 3 sub sizes of standard pistons that came from the factory... yours are subsize #2. This is NOT an O/S piston... Toyota also has those....

Piston crumbling is terminal

Actually #4 bearing is the most prone to failure since it is the furthest away from the oil pump

Keep the engine to "learn on", DON'T reuse anything there in your car!!! At a minimum get a replacement shortblock...


Hmmm also check that photo again... are your pistons raised the tiny bit these are??? Or are yours perfectly flush with no up lift between the valve reliefs


Apolan Wrote:Okay today we opened the bottom end as well and I have found my culprit! The number one con-rod to crankshaft bearing has totally siezed - it actually "grabbed" the crankshaft and was sliding on the outer side - so the friction was between con-rod and the bearing instead of the bearing-cranckshaft. I have never seen that before. Obviously the engine was rebuild before by some of the previous owners as no gaskets were used, only the silicon/gasket material.. not to mention the bolts were tightened on random setting Confused

So couple of questions (hopefully i can get some pics up soon):

1.) Is the crankshaft factory termically worked? Because my crankshaft is a bit blueish where the con-rods are - not in the middle, where the bearing is, but on both sides of the bearing..

2.) Are conrods thermically worked? They are also a bit blueish.

Im trying to work out if thats normal, or if my bottom end is totally messed up and i should just get a new engine..

3.) My pistons only have the number "2" on them and the letter "C". Does that mean they are the standard 81mm? They are exactly like this one (only a very black): http://www.aeu86.org/download/ae86/id/6844

3.1)Some of the pistons are a little chipped on the top edge (maybe 0.5 mm crack/dent.. Is this too wrong?

4.) Is it common that number one bearing siezes? Is this bearing mybe more prone to oil-starvation than the rest?

5.) What could be the reason of seizure? Ithink that just about anything might be the reason, as this engine was obviously not properly built..

Havent taken the crankshaft and the oil pump off yet.. hopefully that will be tomorrow along with some pics.

So what can you say from my description guys? Thanks for all the help!

Regards, sašo

Dan -

You can |Sad .... OR you can ask for help!!!

OST Porting service - http://hachiroku.net/forums/showthread.php?t=19991
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08-14-2007, 01:25 PM
Post: #155
Old Fashioned
Yes my pistons are slightly raised in the middle. (aprox 1 mm or even less
but they are raised - exactly like those on the photo). They are not however raised as much as the redtop pistons.

So basically what you are saying is that this engine is wasted and i should get a new one, or at least the bottom half? Can i get any 16v 4age bottom and fit my bigport tvis head? Like the hi comp bottom end from a redtop?
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09-24-2007, 07:08 PM
Post: #156
Old Fashioned
To continue the streak of misfortunate events, which have bestoved my car in the history of my ownership.. i moved the car to another location, because the "land-lord" needed his garage to be emptied. the new landlord though was on vacation for two days, so my i left my car infront of the warehouse just for those two days. The place is fenced so i thouht everything will be fine. But the next day i left the car there, a whole fleet of construction men came to build some sort of roofing over the place where my car was being stored temporarly. They moved the car (oviously by some spartan means), causing damage to the front a-pillar and two nasty dents into the door.. moved the car to safety now. i hope.

great. just great.
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10-03-2007, 09:59 AM
Post: #157
Old Fashioned
hey apolan buy a gun and shoot the bastards for messing up your car! Evil

Cars:
"99 Lexus IS200
"86 AE86 Kouki Panda Levin GT-Apex (restore project)
"84 AE86 Zenki Blue Levin (project racer)
Motorcycles:
"02 Yamaha R1
"02 Honda Hornet S
"08 BMW R1200GS
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10-03-2007, 05:24 PM
Post: #158
Old Fashioned
Gun? I'd personally would use the tool they used to move his car. Wink

1983 - AE86 Sprinter Trueno - import project
2013 - Honda Civic sport - daily driver
2004 - AEU86 dot ORG - daily domain

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10-03-2007, 08:25 PM
Post: #159
Old Fashioned
Sue them!! Make them pay for the repairs!

Greetz,

Bastiaan "mux213" Olij

Moved down under, no more hachi Sad
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05-08-2009, 07:42 PM
Post: #160
Old Fashioned
hello friends!

Finnally my car getting some of the love and attenntion she deserves Big Grin. Im redoing the suspension and braking system now. As you can see its in preety poor shape. I have new tokico HP's, apex springs, complete bushing set, proper wheels and tyres awaiting the installation. But first some rust problem solving. Here's where you come in.

I will replace the complete brake lines (the copper ones too) and the handbrake cables. Im thinking about overhauling and sandblasting&painting the calipers - i believe it will do the trick. Dont really know it they are siezed or not... But the discs just look too FUBAR. And that flange (hub-mud-shield) is rotten. What would you suggest me to do? It has to be a fairly cheap solution, but not to compromise safety. Performance is reequired to a degree, as this will be no racecar..

Thanx in advance and sory for the bad phone pics!

cheers!


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