Surreptitious.....

[oldeskewltoy]

Well... the steel rivet nuts arrived, and the temps are again under 80, so some more work can proceed.....

I found this image online...

self-explanatory






...and here is my finished job. I forgot to take pics as I was doing this... and I wasn't going to disassemble it just to take pics! What you see in the above photo is one of the brackets (I designed and Jesse welded) double bolted to the front cross member.






Here is the cooler no longer "supported" by lumber, or shop rags, but fully mounted with the brackets. Note the cooler hose is routed thru the grill support - can you see the custom grommet?? The hose mounted through the grill support will help somewhat in minimizing any frequency vibration that may occur, it is a nice snug vibration free mount.



Over the front of the cooler, I plan on mounting a grill(gutter leaf guard) using the tabs you see. The same material will be used to cover the areas outside of the driving lamps, where the horns are




Now for under the hood. All the hoses properly sized and assembled. Looks neat, and efficient, I'll use a few small zipties to mount the sensor wiring to the hose and make it neater.....








A slightly different view.... The sensor is an oil temp sensor. If the oil gets too hot, this sensor will sense the change, and if severe enough will shut the engine down.




Now... to see if I can get AE86 GTS lines(brake and fuel - front to rear) into an AE72... without bending them! If it isn't plug and play, I did get the 3/8" bundyweld tubing......


More to come.......

[oldeskewltoy]

Well... more "hunter/gatherer" techniques used this last week. I finally found(@ LKQ Tigard - thanks Josh) a non efi rwd water pipe... I cut it twice, once about 30mm before the front welded brace - this piece is used... upside down!



Now the reason this is important is that I needed to keep the knock sensor port free. At some point after we are rolling... a fine tune using a knock sensor tuned specifically for this engine will be the goal.





I also cut the 20 degree bend off the remainder of the pipe @ the other end.




The small piece I'm using to fit to the MR2 type rear water outlet, and make connection to the factory heater core hoses fit around the 2nd heater core hose, which is the line that goes down to the back of the pump.

It's all a bit easier to inderstand if you look at all the new clamps

[oldeskewltoy]

Remember this pile o' blank?????




Nasty bit of mess here, and I've been thinking of exactly where the ECU will get mounted. Quite a few of you already know this firewall... likely better than I!! My FJO ecu isn't a small unit(as is plainly visible), so finding a mounting place out of the way... and not under foot(LITERALLY!) isn't easy....

Until I began to think out of the box........... or taking literally... off the firewall!





The mounted ECU - under the heater duct!




All out of the way... and VERY easy to service!!!!!


2 screws into the flange along the bottom of the heater box - thick plastic, I used 19mm long coarse screws and I used a plumber strap mounted as you see........ I did give some thought to the limited potential for the ecu getting wet, since it is mounted under the duct... The screws are very snug in the plastic, I doubt any moisture will seep along the threads.





a few details for the viewer...
1) the pile of black and white wire(upper left) is the tach driver... it is the last of the wiring besides making the battery cables.

2) the FJO little box you see(above the duct)... is the low ohm injector driver. The reason I'm using low ohm injectors is that low ohm injectors respond quicker then high ohm injectors

3) The little box hanging over the ECU is the mini USB connector for tuning access, it'll get mounted in the glove box.

[oldeskewltoy]

one step back..... followed by 2 steps forward......


Smart guy(me)... thought you had the oil cooler all done. Thought it fits the OEM manifold... it'll fit my header..........

[SIZE="6"]NOT[/SIZE]

For those, like myself, who like pics...

It began with this....


looks like the adapter will fit......


It does.... with a stock manifold... BUT the header isn't as compact....

The filter hits #1 tube with the earlier set up... sooo, I have to change the set up AGAIN.

I have to fit the adapter into an area that allows about 3mm of "wiggle" room..... The above photo shows the Mocal adapter mounted on top of a stock filter adapter. Below, the Mocal is directly on the block.



As you can see, the Aeroquip lines are VERY close to the oil pressure sender. They are so close, that each had to be rotated just a bit for optimum(1+mm) clearance.


Here are the final... final... FINAL oil cooler photos....




Hehehehe.... note the zipties!



The final pics from the front shows the grommet inside the hood latch/grill support holding the one line. This photo also shows the tops of the "custom" brackets Jesse made for me.........







I have a Honda part on my car!!! :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:




EEEEEE GAAAAADS....... A Honda part? OST using Honda parts???

When it fits the bill(in this case the hole), I have no problems using Honda parts...

Like this one... from a 1st gen CRX........



Looks like factory... The worst part is the part I cut to fit the harness in... its a bit ragged(the cut hole)

[oldeskewltoy]

Quote:What's that FRAM nonsense doing on there?

I "gave" my last OEM filter to MOmo... I needed something of the correct size to do sample fitting.... I may also use it for the break in, since the break in oil will be in for about 2-3 hours total


http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/products/br30.html

This oil CAN'T be used in a street engine for long... it has zinc and a few other elements in it that ease ring seating, yet do significant damage to cats and oxy sensors.....


Why use this break in oil??? Sinple really... this engine has been on a stand for over a year now.... I need every advantage I can get. Arnie(Arnie Loyning) tells me with regular oil... he can have as high as a 10% failure rate (ring seating). With this oil... the percentage drops by 3/4s!!!! For those mathimatically challenged... if reg oil types lead to 10 failures in 100... this BR oil leads to only 2.5 failures per 100....

[oldeskewltoy]

Throttle body..... I'm running the single T/B, with some modifications.

1) the manifold is a reversed fwd type... so I need a fwd T/B





2) I will not be using the mechanical fast idle circuit to offer me a fast idle during warm up - the ECU will be monitoring coolant temps and the ECU will either;
a) open a BSV.... or
b) operate an IAC motor (idle air control)

because I will not be using the facory equipped fast idle circuit I chose to remove the assembly entirely and make a block off plate instead. IF I choose to go with an IAC motor, I can tap the plate to accomodate the IAC motor fittings.






The top photo shows the bottom side of a T/B, w/ fast idle assembly. The second photo shows this unit removed, the last photo shows the block off plate.

To try to answer questions BEFORE asked....

1) in the top photo... note the 2 large ports in a vertical line(on left)... these are for the coolant lines. The coolant flows through these and warms the small end of the assembly.

2) The middle shot shows the fast idle "circuit". The 2nd round hole on the left(2nd as in closer to the middle) is the port outside of the throttle plate(as in #1 in the uppermost photos), the weird shaped rectangle with the small elongated hole is the inside port.

3) the bottom shot shows the block off plate as it blocks only the air. The coolant ports do not need to be blocked off since there is no longer any coolant anywhere near the T/B


More to come.......

[oldeskewltoy]

No pictures this week... at least not yet. Miura and I finally got the fuel lines from the GTS installed. There IS a bug when doing this... the engine compartment end of the brake line(AE86 GTS) is bent 180 degrees opposite of what is needed for the AE71. Jeff and I disassembled the lines, removed the AE86 brake line, added the AE71 line and then re-fitted the lines. The brake lines up and all the EFI lines are now in their approximate location.


I'm also in the process of assembling the front suspension..... I should have photos in a day or two......

[oldeskewltoy]

As stated, I managed to get a few things done towards the suspension. As with many of you, once you "install" performance springs there is a gap between spring seats and springs when the suspension is fully unloaded. This is very disturbing to me(just don't like loose parts on a car!!!) In my black car I used 50 year old technology to overcome this by using tow strap material, and looping it over the upper spring perch, and gathering the ends under the lower spring perch and using 2 large hose clamps to keep the assembly together. It has worked for near 10 years now, and although "inventive" (using 50 year old tech on a 25 year old car) it has always rubbed me just a bit that it is a bit "ghetto".

When Tokico introduced the HTS112, I felt my problems were solved.... and they were..... almost! Looking at the photo below you'll see the three pieces of the front strut install hardware, 2 spacers, and the gland nut.



Well that isn't what Tokico sent me... the spacer on the far left is about 1/2 of the original spacer. The upper spacer I had my friend Jesse turn for me. This was done (cut the original Tokico spacer and make the new upper spacer) because there was just a bit of free space(about 15mm)with the strut unloaded with my custom springs. The spacer adjustment now keeps the springs firmly mounted in the housing.



As you can see... the spring has a small amount of preload on it... with no straps holding it together........

[oldeskewltoy]

Everyone says all the AE86 stuff crosses over.... I found out that the specs aren't identical... and the distance between the strut towers is 12mm longer/wider in a xE7x chassis.



A Cusco AS strut bar presented itself to me for a very good price. I took a gamble on it. Why a gamble? Because Cusco lists a different AS part # then they use for the AE86. So I wasn't sure about its fitment. I was pretty sure the tops would fit, I wasn't as sure if the bar would be long enough to cover the extra distance.

It seems to fit nicely. It is just resting on top of the strut nuts for the photo. For those who think it may hit the intake... the nuts are about 10mm tall, the manifold is 14mm away from the bar. 4mm to spare to the top of the intake.

It still needs to be cleaned, and polished up, but add another part into the mix.

[SekiguchiUeno]

Man i like how you document everything
We did something similar with shorter ae92 shocks in the front, i hope the upper spacer is from polyurethane, only just to be sure.
What wanted i know more is, what upper mounts you use? It seems TRD items are discontinued.