Surreptitious.....

[oldeskewltoy]

Well...... since that new airbox is taking up the space where the old overflow and washer tanks were, I need to find places for each.


I took a close look at my washer/overflow tanks and noticed that they were NOT 2 tanks in one plastic mold... but 2 tanks rivetted together! Drill out the rivets and you have two separate tanks.







This provides an opportunity to retain the original overflow tank *IF* I can find a place it can fit........

there are 3 holes in the overflow tank designed for mounting purposes... one that was used before I separated the tanks, the other 2 were the rivet holes used to keep the 2 tanks together.


Here is the shroud as fitted to the fan....



see all that room to the right of the fan???



Now here is a view of the now single overflow tank taped(sorry... no wood this time) into place. the overflow hose, in a gentle loop, fully clears the top radiator hose.



Note the tabs(on right of tank) at the top, and at the bottom, I can either add a riv-nut to these places on the shroud, or 2 regular rivets and make it permanently affixed to the shroud. The tab on the left can get removed




An overhead shot... shows the odd shape.... The tank WILL fit here... without interference... but I'm undecided as to keeping it, or trying to find something that fits better (if there is such a tank)


A few questions.... I've yet to answer...
1) Can the tank take constant heat??? Will the shroud conduct too much heat into that tank - full contact is different then when/if the rad belches some coolant now and again

2) can the overflow tank be 3"-4" below the overflow outlet?

[oldeskewltoy]

I'm undecided whether or not I'm keeping that overflow, or will be working on something different. I'll be at the boneyard soon to see what is available......



I went and got some more parts - rad cap... fuel filter... and some other bits(hose and vacuum caps)

The photo below shows quite a bit going on....




Working on the fuel system some more..... the new coils are exactly where the AE86 fuel filter goes... so the metal fuel line get a "soft" 90 degree bend, and the fuel filter now has a new location, with a new bracket! The braket goes down to the engine mount and through the smaller hole, I used a 6 x 19mm bolt, nut, and fender washer to secure it to the mount. I'll have a filter to fuel rail line made



So besides the filter.... we have the new iginition wires... and that weird SAAB (heh, yep another manufacturers part) wire loom holder - it makes it so neat. This might be the only 4AG with the wires routed through the intake manifold... Nice thing is NO heat, this is the cool side of the engine


Besides the ignition wires, and fuel filter there is some of the linkage shown. Note how the cable is routed UNDER the ported vacuum valve and the port for the breather. Also note the cable mount is modified for clearence. And finally... the nice new throttle return spring.

[oldeskewltoy]

Quote: why not use the oem AE water overflow tank? it mounts to the strut tower and is pretty much out of the way.

I've looked into this... and it is an option - BUT the inner fender is different, and the special mount will not fit without adding rivnuts(which I have).

Quote:if not then one of those hot rod overflow tube?? should work as well, they come in different lengths and are made from aluminum.

I've also given this some thought too.... ands if the idea I have doesn't work.... I'll look into both of these ideas more..........


I was out at the bone yard today.... and found another Honda part (eeeeeeeeee gawds, not just one, but TWO Honda parts now....)



off of an early 90s Civic I think... there was no front end on the car


Well here is where I thought it might go...... the driverside of the fan shroud has a metal tab(green arrow) just sticking out asking for something to be bolted to it....




In the upper right corner is a small, VERY bad photo... you'll have to trust me.... but it is the mounting bracket - the green arrow is pointing to an 8mm bolt, the purple arrows are pointing to the gradual slide the tank slips into. It needs a quick weld, right now it has a ViceGrip holding it together.


This small bracket will allow the tank to sit close to the radiator, and yet not mounted directly onto it. The shape fits the cooling fan opening rather well too..........




Well, the cooling system details are getting worked out... one of which is....

How do you re-direct an overflow pipe pointing to the passenger side....




....to "vent" its contents to the driverside, where the new overflow bottle will reside.....






Well, I think I've got the cooling system covered....

[oldeskewltoy]

Well, this past weekend I tried to get the transmission in and I failed..........


Seems I forgot to purchase the pressure plate dowels, and so the clutch didn't get installed until today (Tuesday...) with hopes of getting the trans into place by thursday.

I had though of deleteing the dowels..... then I realized that dowels are what hold the pressure plate firmly to the flywheel, firmly as in rotationally. Without the hardened dowels, the bolts would have to also hold the sheering forces as well as the clamping forces.




you'd be surprised how hard it is to get the lens centered, and the light on the right place, without moving too much.... but the inset shows the disc centered in the pressure plate. The trans should slip in easily enough


The transmission DID go out on Sunday...... to the local do it yourself car wash.... unfortunately the "coating" on the trans required a chemical cleaning to get it even this clean........



There has also been a new throwout bearing installed to keep clutch operation smooooooooooooooth

[oldeskewltoy]

Well, I realized recently that the new engine harness has no labelling describing which connector goes where. If I have to remove something.... it may be VERY difficult to re-attach things in their correct locations..... Currently only the injectors have labels

So, I went on a search for labelling.... and I found these



Zip ties with a small 8mm by 19mm pad - perfect for labelling the individual sections of the harness. I plan on using the type on the left


They are Panduit flame retardant cable flag ties

[oldeskewltoy]

this is what .2 mm looks like - the gap between the crank angle sensor and the crank reluctor ring.

Btw.... Jackson Autosport did a VERY good job in making this pulley/ring assembly... the reluctor ring is 150mm, and the run out(amount out of round) is 1/10mm The air gap between the ring and the sensor wil vary between .2 mm and .3 mm



Oh.... POP.......

one dead lift and the transmission is in! So is the driveshaft.

Thank you Jesse!

This all means I can now measure the distance to have a custom made clutch line made, and I can now hang the Brave Exhaust and do the geometry to figure out what length/angle adapter will be needed to connect the Brave to the KBD.


Further progress!!!

[JEssE]

Your welcome!
haha no just kidding
Nice project, keep it going!

[oldeskewltoy]

JEssE Wrote:Your welcome!
haha no just kidding
Nice project, keep it going!

but this is the Jesse I was speak'n bout....

http://www.sidewaystoyota.com/

[oldeskewltoy]

On to a bit o news.........

oldeskewltoy 4/14/09 Wrote:Well... I won the auction on the wheels:thumbsup:... now it'll be 3 months till I see them :thumbsdown: Ahhh the pleasures of Yahoo Japan

Hmmm remember that /\


3 months would have been July....


it is now October.... so add another 3 months.... BUT they finally arrived!





For tires...... I've got a set of heat cycled 195/50/15 Yokohama ES100 that should do fine for now.......

[oldeskewltoy]

I want to thank Jack(towat16, when I went up to pick up my wheels, Jack had a spare AE86 GTS charcoal canister!!!

And guess what.... the cars that are supposed to be the same...... are not(AGAIN!)

A bit of out of the box thinking got this issue solved. The brackets for the AE86 canister didn't fit, but the bracket for the AE71 canister does......


So this was a small issue solved... put AE86 canister into AE71 bracket.... and its complete....


It fits sooooo nicely. I need to run a piece of vacuum line from the open port, over to the ported vacuum valve on the back of the head, and then from there up to the "C" fitting on the T/B. All just routing of vacuum hoses. I may try to run a steel line, but it isn't necessary.



Not a common view for a 4AG photo... radiator is out of the car, so this shot is through where the radiator should be. This shows the new fuel filter location, as well as the fuel return line (center bottom, w/tape). Center top shows the underside of the modified T/B - no warm up regulator. The pipe remaining is just a remnant of the warm up regulator, it goes no where, and nothing goes to it.