TPS and stop screw set up

[kazi]

Anyone have a link on how to set the TPS and stop screw?

Car hunts something stupid but the TPS set up I've followed hasn't seemed to work.

[Bean]

It's very late here so for now just a short answer: You can find the proper adjustment in the manual available in tech section. I'll add more tomorrow if needed.

[banpei]

You can find it on page 145 of the 4A-GE manual:
http://files.aeu86.org/manuals/4A-GEManual.pdf

[jondee86]

Then look for information on how to check and clean/replace the
thermostatic idle-up valve under the throttle body.

Cheers... jondee86

[kazi]

Thanks for the replies

Jondee, I've had a look at the thermostatic idle-up cleaning but am I wrong in saying that the idle up is just for AC and power steering on the underside of the throttle body?

[jondee86]

The A/C idle-up uses a separate solenoid valve to let air into the
downstream side of the AAV. The P/S idle-up is a mechanical valve
that allows air from the upstream side of the AAV to pass into the
downstream side. Neither of them are affected by the operation of
the AAV itself.





The AAV is contolled by a wax filled capsule that is heated by the
circulating coolant so that it gradually expands and cuts off the
extra air by-passing the throttle butterfly. It is very common for the
AAV (or the two little water hoses) to get blocked. If the idle goes
high and stays high as the engine warms up, at a certain temperature
it will start to cycle on fuel cut. The effect is a rise in fall in revs that
sound like you are gently pressing and releasing the gas pedal.

Here is some information on how to clean the valve if it is blocked...
http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12013
When the engine is warmed up, both of the little water hoses should
get hot. If one gets a bit warm but the other one stays cool, the valve
or hoses are blocked and the valve will not close to bring your idle down
as the engine warms up.

Cheers... jondee86

[Dave W]

What Jondee is referencing to is the waxstat under the throttle body, that has the two small water line hoses connected too. You can remove, and try cleaning the waxstat with carb cleaner. If you go that far, I would remove the complete TB and clean everything. The problem could also be an air-lock in the cooling system if the coolant has been drained. If you do adjust the waxstat, it does not take a lot to reduce the RPM. I my case .5mm adjustment reduce the RPM by about 400 to 500 RPM while cold. Dave W

[kazi]

(04-23-2017 01:22 PM)Dave W Wrote:  What Jondee is referencing to is the waxstat under the throttle body, that has the two small water line hoses connected too. You can remove, and try cleaning the waxstat with carb cleaner. If you go that far, I would remove the complete TB and clean everything. The problem could also be an air-lock in the cooling system if the coolant has been drained. If you do adjust the waxstat, it does not take a lot to reduce the RPM. I my case .5mm adjustment reduce the RPM by about 400 to 500 RPM while cold. Dave W

AH! now i never thought about a coolant airlock. i did have to drain the system after the timing belt tensioner snapped to change the belt. i might try bleeding the system first before i do anything else. its only started doing this since the belt change. either that or I've set the TPS up completely wrong. failing that i might change over the throttle body to my old one as i know that one is fiona and set up well.

---

(04-23-2017 01:15 PM)jondee86 Wrote:  The A/C idle-up uses a separate solenoid valve to let air into the
downstream side of the AAV. The P/S idle-up is a mechanical valve
that allows air from the upstream side of the AAV to pass into the
downstream side. Neither of them are affected by the operation of
the AAV itself.





The AAV is contolled by a wax filled capsule that is heated by the
circulating coolant so that it gradually expands and cuts off the
extra air by-passing the throttle butterfly. It is very common for the
AAV (or the two little water hoses) to get blocked. If the idle goes
high and stays high as the engine warms up, at a certain temperature
it will start to cycle on fuel cut. The effect is a rise in fall in revs that
sound like you are gently pressing and releasing the gas pedal.

Here is some information on how to clean the valve if it is blocked...
http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12013
When the engine is warmed up, both of the little water hoses should
get hot. If one gets a bit warm but the other one stays cool, the valve
or hoses are blocked and the valve will not close to bring your idle down
as the engine warms up.

Cheers... jondee86

thanks for the always detailed response dude