What camshafts would be nice?

[Bean]

oldeskewltoy Wrote:Oh... the only non stock mechanical parts are valve springs - TRD type. Wrist pins - lightened aftermarket type and the camshafts and timing pulleys. The crank, rods, pistons, rings, valves are all standard Toyota parts

if I remember right you had the rods treated though and your pistons are brand new and not 100kmiles old

[apardal]

Dan, I don't think it is appropriate to argue about dyno's and their accuracy on this topic, but dyno numbers are hardly a rule of thumb to compare engine power outputs.

My facts are:

298º Kent camshafts (264º at 1mm of lift) and 9.4mm of maximum lift.

143whp (170hp) @ 8100 rpm.



So it is likely that given my setup and assuming it is properly tuned, it'll be producing more power than yours, but numbers are almost exactly the same and I suppose on the road it wont be the same.

Just to say that it is hard to present facts beyond reasonable doubt with dyno sheets, to help Patrick decide on which cams to go for.

[oldeskewltoy]

Bean Bandit Wrote:

oldeskewltoy Wrote:Oh... the only non stock mechanical parts are valve springs - TRD type. Wrist pins - lightened aftermarket type and the camshafts and timing pulleys. The crank, rods, pistons, rings, valves are all standard Toyota parts

if I remember right you had the rods treated though and your pistons are brand new and not 100kmiles old

I had the rods and crank shotpeened and lightened... but they are all stock bits







the pistons are new OEM 10 to 1, and I had the skirts coated




BUT... nothing inside the block makes anymore horsepower then the original European bits did...(I lose a bit less do to less friction).

[ZDoman]

OST is using a smallport head, Apardal is using a bigport. and I personally believe OST's headwork, and exhaust system is better than the one from apardal. so basically I can imagine that the 2 engines having the same power output from different ways.

but to be ontopic, it turned out earlier, that the best option for patrick to choose cam around 288 degree with around 10mm of lift.

[Uzelac]

Changing lift is great, but it costs too much.

From what i know, 272-288 is both street and track drivable car with near stock engine. With 8mm it's enough to produce ~140+ whp.

Going 10mm and 160 whp need much work and costs in whole engine, too much in my opinion.