valve tick on cylender two intake

[dinkers542]

Well I went through and measures valve clearance an only the #3 exhaust is in spec. The first valve on #4 intake side doesn't have any clearance at all and the first valve on #2 is .48

Should I be feeling screwed over?

[totta Crolla]

"Purchaced a rebuilt 4age for pretty cheap"

(12-11-2014 10:41 PM)dinkers542 Wrote:  Should I be feeling screwed over?

No.

[Bean]

there's a slim chance that he simply mixed up the shims of these two valves...

[dinkers542]

He may have!

Is there a point where I should be worried that the valves could be hitting the pistons?

These are my clearances

Cylender #1
intake
1. 0.23
2. 0.08
Exhaust
1. 0.15
2. 0.08

Cylender #2
intake
1. 0.48
2. 0.22
exhaust
1. 0.33
2. 0.15

Cylender #3
intake
1. 0.25
2. 0.10
exhaust
1. 0.21
2. 0.21

Cylender #4
intake
1. no clearance
2. 0.38
exhaust
1. 0.09
2. 0.18

[Bean]

No even with 0 clearance it remains a free runner. But 0 clearance will wear down your cams

if I skimm over your numbers most are out of spec - not just these two. .0X is out of spec as is .3X etc...
double and tripple check your measurments and write everything down, then remove the shims (if you don't have the means to remove them with the cams in place remove the cams) - when removing the sims keep them in order! (ice cube forms or egg carton work well and cheap). measure/check the size of all the shims and write does down too (always double or triple measure).

Then you'll have to do some math and/or use an excel sheet - you might get lucky and they are simply mixed up completely or you'll need to get a few - some you'll be able to use in different spots to get the right clearance - aim to get them as even as possible.

[dinkers542]

I picked up some ice trays and a valve compressor yesterday so im going to take them out and size them all tonight after I get off work. I have a couple more blue top heads so I will measure those and see if I can reuse those if I need them.

[oldeskewltoy]

(12-12-2014 11:48 PM)dinkers542 Wrote:  I picked up some ice trays and a valve compressor yesterday so im going to take them out and size them all tonight after I get off work. I have a couple more blue top heads so I will measure those and see if I can reuse those if I need them.

do you have a digital caliper? You will need one when checking shim thicknesses.

What standard? SAE (inches), or Metric


ASSUMING measurements are in Metric....

Cylender #1
intake
1. 0.23 - ok
2. 0.08 - tight
Exhaust
1. 0.15 - tight
2. 0.08 - tight

Cylender #2
intake
1. 0.48 - loose
2. 0.22 - ok
exhaust
1. 0.33 - loose (tiny bit)
2. 0.15 - tight

Cylender #3
intake
1. 0.25 - ok
2. 0.10 - tight
exhaust
1. 0.21 - ok
2. 0.21 - ok

Cylender #4
intake
1. no clearance - tight
2. 0.38 - loose
exhaust
1. 0.09 - tight
2. 0.18 - tight

[Bean]

While you're checking things do a compression check to make sure all is in order on that end.

[dinkers542]

I do have a digital caliper and I do all my measurements in metric.

The engine is on a stand and honestly I only know how to do a compression test if it is in the car all hooked up. I have read up a bit on leak down testing and that seems to be the easiest option. Is that a decently acurate test?

[Bean]

(12-13-2014 09:30 AM)dinkers542 Wrote:  I do have a digital caliper and I do all my measurements in metric.

The engine is on a stand and honestly I only know how to do a compression test if it is in the car all hooked up. I have read up a bit on leak down testing and that seems to be the easiest option. Is that a decently acurate test?

Both test are good - compression test on a stand works the same way, you'll just need to crank it by hand (long breaker bar on the pully).