Bean Bandits Levin 'Globetrotter'

[Bean]

yay, just drove my car the first time after 4.5 weeks of holiday just realize my brakes are barely working - got back (2min drive), popped the hood and found my brakefluid leaked completly out between the BMC and brakebooster ...
off now to take it all apart and see what's the damage at least this gives me the opportunity to fit my russel speed bleeders I have lying around for more than a year.

[Bean]

took the BMC out and apart and one off the seals is past it's good days - strangely enough it wasn't the one in the far back ... will try and source a rebuild kit now, so I can put everything back together again.

another thought that crossed my mind is maybe one or more of the brakes got stock during that month sending all the pressure back to the BMC - although that shouldn't cause a complete loss of fluid in the BMC on it's own.

[Bean]

my 4 bolt BMC seems to be a real odd ball - searched on toyodiy and google for the right partnumber for almost an hour now and the only one who comes close is of an US 4runner which doesn't exist here :/

[Dino86]

Hi,

I bought a BMC 4holes from HiAce (84-89 I believe) from Ebay.
Brand new: 10Euro
Diameter is higher (15/16) than OE. It needs higher force but I prefer the feedback in the pedal (rigidity is higher)

It is almmost plug&play.
Need to bend the lines a bit and swap the adapters for the line-connection (they are M12 instead of M10)

A rebuild kit for the OE should be available at remshop.nl I guess

[Bean]

Problem fixed, managed to source new seals locally. Used this occasion to rebuild the front calipers and would have done the rears as well but didn't have enough brakefluid of the same kind. So this is postponed 'till I can import some more.

[Bean]

As promised pictures of the new goodies - for now just one, more to follow:

JimStim v1.5 for my MS DIYPNP - freshly soldered together

[Bean]

more pics:

Phormula Knock KS-4 (incl. additional output to be logged by the ECU)


also started to assemble the DIYPNP (will support sequential fuel injection and wasted spark ignition with 2 direct drivers)


AE101 ITBs with the T3 manifold (will feature custom carbonfibre stacks and airbox, once I get around making the necessary mould)


and here two more detailed pictures of the areas which will need some work to smooth/increase flow on the T3 manifold


click pictures for higher resolution version

[BOOMEX]

I'm nearly going on the same set up

But i'm litel woried about the T3 plate. isn't it too a litel too short?

Do you chose the cams you are going to Use?

Bonne continuation

[Bean]

Yeah, cams are already purchased (catcams ...138s), in the end I went for the slightly milder catcams, see on page 1 somewhere with 9.5mm lift instead of 10.5. Same duration, similar to 272s.
Still need to figure out a good way to get the head delivered, post system/customs here is a bitch to work with.

The T3 is ~75mm long, add ~80mm to that from valvehead to port face and another ~25mm from the itb to the throttle plate. Itbs themselves are also around 70mm and I will make some stacks in the regions of 80-110mm so should end up with 300-350mm runner length. All from the top of my head - there is a thread somewhere we exact figures and calculations, if you search for intake runner length.

[totta Crolla]

Bean the brake master cylinder is from a very late car.
I have the same one, it's good but made from steel as opposed to aluminium and I think that is why it has four fixings instead of two.
From my experience with the same cams as yours you will definately need adjustable pullies, at the recommended setting my exhaust cam was 18 degrees off (advanced) and if yours are the same and you are still using a distributor you may have issues getting the ignition timing right.
They do make good power and on my engine respond well to having increased overlap at TDC
Somewhere around 108 degrees inlet and 104 degrees exhaust :wink: