Bean Bandits Levin 'Globetrotter'

[Bean]

totta Crolla Wrote:Bean the brake master cylinder is from a very late car.
I have the same one, it's good but made from steel as opposed to aluminium and I think that is why it has four fixings instead of two.
From my experience with the same cams as yours you will definately need adjustable pullies, at the recommended setting my exhaust cam was 18 degrees off (advanced) and if yours are the same and you are still using a distributor you may have issues getting the ignition timing right.
They do make good power and on my engine respond well to having increased overlap at TDC
Somewhere around 108 degrees inlet and 104 degrees exhaust :wink:

I got Toda pulleys
Eventually I'll see how much performance I can extract from my setup and if not pleasing enough I'll go a step or two up in the catcam range. First I need to have a base figure though. Not sure how much money I will through into it once finished as my final goal is still a Beams engine so will see how I get on

[Bean]

finally managed to get my CAD working again so went forth making the final design for my stacks - after lots of reading and measuring I opted for the following solution with the curve-back of the bell merging into each other rather than have the complete circle with less than 1mm between.

for those who looked into it as well - I extended the original taper (instead of parallel) and finished off with an elliptical profile rather than basic radius or aerofoil. Now I need to find or build (a basic) lathe, so I can make a mold to reproduce the design in CF. Once this is all done airbox will be next.


some of the different designs I went through can be found on my photobucket account

according to my calculations I should get 3 efficiency boosts @
~3500 from 4th wave (weakest)
~4700 from 3rd wave (mostly used on race cars)
~7100 from 2nd wave (strongest)
[rpm figures are ballpark figures calculated representing my catcams and a total runner length of ~340mm]

PS: if one would extend the original tapper of the AE101 ITB simply straight in 1mm thickness you can reach upto a length of 362mm before they would interfere with each other (obviously this would be difficult to fit in the car )

[Project D]

Wow really nice design
But be careful, the distance between each TB is 87.5mm, not 87mm

[Bean]

Project D Wrote:Wow really nice design
But be careful, the distance between each TB is 87.5mm, not 87mm

cheers for that - they'll be made with the full circle and then trimmed down so no worries

[Project D]

Bean Bandit Wrote:cheers for that - they'll be made with the full circle and then trimmed down so no worries

I have no doubt about that, but if your design is based on 87mm you can have small radius on your elliptical shape and so it may create flow perturbations.
Personally I think it's always better if everything is PERFECT in CAD before making the real parts

[Bean]

small update:

my head (OST#13) is finally on the way to me and should arrive towards the end of the month, including a matching fuelrail
also acquired a 24-1 dizzy which I'll modify slightly and use as a CAS with the MS and 1NZ-FE coils to complete the sequential ignition.

still some parts left to make and buy (injectors, fuelpump, airbox, stacks and other small hardware) but as time is on my side - nothing to worry about

[Uzelac]

Project D Wrote:Wow really nice design
But be careful, the distance between each TB is 87.5mm, not 87mm

Hmm, sure about 87.5mm ?

Everything i made by today was with 87mm, and it was allways perfect fit to 16V head.
2mm would make enough difference, but there is none, as i said, perfect fit (intake manifolds).

[BOOMEX]

great reserch and calculation

Good luck with your MS

[Bean]

BOOMEX Wrote:great reserch and calculation

Good luck with your MS

Thanks, I'll have to measure the angle of the TB again with some more accurate tools as a preliminary test with a piece of paper cut (as good as I could) at 6° appeared a bit to shallow, so the actual angle might be slightly more than 6° but not by much (less than 1°).

MS is keeping me very busy at the moment as I try to figure out how I can incorporate the phormula KS4 knock unit to provide a good signal for the MSs knock safety feature and have the raw data (from KS4) logged at the same time. Unfortunately the KS4 alarm wire, which I intended to use for the MS safety feature, won't work as planed as after pulling the signal to ground (perfect), keeps it there (bad) until I manually push a button on the unit to reset the alarm.

As most of my parts won't arrive before end of march I have some time left to clean up some loose ends

[Bean]

sourced a smallport highcomp block too now, just need to convince a friend to transport it within Switzerland to my matching head that's coming over at the end of the month

still a few bits and bobs missing here and there but looking good right now and definitely will get me going