Bean Bandits Levin 'Globetrotter'

[McKenney]

20mm +/-

[Bean]

pictures as promised of the bolt hitting the tension arm and the remaining travel left on the rack at that point

[Project D]

Get some RCA, problem solved

[McKenney]

well I have roll center adjusters and FC calipers on mine.

roll center adjusters will clear that up.

[Bean]

I will eventually (or make my own if I can get hold of the technical drawing with the dimensions). Non the less I still need to lengthen the LCAs to clear the tire properly and be able to ditch the spacers. Especially as I want to go for wider rims some time soonish.

[McKenney]

I run Cusco rcas, same longer lcas, stock sway links and tension rods, stock hubs with Mini Cooper S rotors and FC RX7 claipers and pads, and 15x8 0 offset XXR 531s. I have 0 clearance issues and 0 rubbing with stock fenders(rolled inner lip). The car is on P.A.S.S. racing coilovers and sits low! I'm running a stock MR2 manual rack with Corolla inner and outer tie rods. I have 2.5 degrees of negative caster, 2 degrees negative camber, 0 toe. Just to give some perspective and measurement guidelines. I daily drove this setup for 3 years with no issues or adjustments after my initial setting.

[McKenney]

*the same lcas you have pictured above. just shaved off the big ear...

[Project D]

Bean Bandit Wrote:(or make my own if I can get hold of the technical drawing with the dimensions)

RCA are one of the easiest part to make
If you really need some drawing, I can give you that :wink:
PM me

[Bean]

Project D Wrote:

Bean Bandit Wrote:(or make my own if I can get hold of the technical drawing with the dimensions)

RCA are one of the easiest part to make
If you really need some drawing, I can give you that :wink:
PM me

You have PM

[Bean]

UPDATE time again

as driving with massive toe in was unbearable I fitted my Corona lower arms today. As mentioned and can be seen in previous posts they are longer and ARB as well as tension rod mountings don't really line up with the original.
Now for the surprise, it all fits with out modifications apart from grinding of the lock stop.
I then went to do an alignment (surprise #2: despite the fact this country lives in the middle ages in more than one aspect, they had a modern laser alignment unit). So I set caster to 4°, camber to -2° and corrected the toe to almost 0 (0°01' in each).
It drives as good as before only now with almost 4 turns of the steering wheel lock to lock and slightly more than 45° on the inner wheel.

Surprise #3 I won't need to make RCAs (thanks anyway ProjectD) at least for the moment as the angle of the balljoint on the Corona arms is shallower and the brakes clear the tension rod with ease.

First (finger) measurements of the clearance between tire and chassis seem to be in the regions of 40mm (still with 25mm spacers). So I will remove the spacers tomorrow and see how things are.
The topmounts have also room left on the positive side so less than -2° is possible still.

First impressions so far seem to be very lucky indeed as I think I can ditch the need to fab up my own LCAs and still run 8"ET0 wheels in the future. Although I might need some 10mm extra I think but that can be solved by some aluminium hubs from GRP4.

Now the next step is get my block sorted and try to convince my friend to bring me some new wheels and tires on his next flight so I can fix my arches.