Surreptitious.....

[pack]

Nice one man! Really nice!

Glad to see new updates on the machine!

Brakes are done? Or still ongoing? Seems to me youll be braking alot more...

[oldeskewltoy]

pack Wrote:Nice one man! Really nice!

Glad to see new updates on the machine!

Brakes are done? Or still ongoing? Seems to me youll be braking alot more...

thanks....

I'm not entirely sure what you are asking....

the brakes are completely installed now, but as of yet I have not actually finished the swap, so I do not know *IF* the brakes will be operating correctly.... or may need additional(aftermarket possible) hydraulic aids to properly set the balance.

[corolla4agze]

Hi. How much lower your trans support bar did go from STAIGHT??

or do you have side view photo i see what angle your box sit. I think mine look little down on back. But mine car is no jacks so hard to compare.

thanks

[oldeskewltoy]

corolla4agze Wrote:Hi. How much lower your trans support bar did go from STAIGHT??

or do you have side view photo i see what angle your box sit. I think mine look little down on back. But mine car is no jacks so hard to compare.

thanks

Remember I have an AE71, the lower mounting points are a bit different then in an AE86.



If you are still using the J160 trans mount.... it almost "constructs itself", bend it as you see(in purple)...




Looking at the view above, you can see the lower spine of the transmission is almost level with the road surface, with maybe a 1 degree back angle. Below you can see the output shafts are nearly in the same place compared to the mount

[corolla4agze]

i think ae86 have one pair of bolt holes few cm back.. compare to you

[oldeskewltoy]

I still as of yet have not figured out how to isolate the rear hatch... but it may end up with a American car type threadable rubber bumper. it will require a Dremel cut and some adjusting of the area some so the adjustable bumper will function correctly...


for now I'm proceeding with the box....




Using the tried and true version of C.A.D., I go from dotted lines to a template.....

version number one (note lack of handle holds on this one....


version #2 with corrections made after fitment of #1






Digging out the original rear carpet... the new carpet will need to be a bit larger... but you get the idea.......





Now I go out and get a bit of plywood, and some hardware...


I'm still not sure yet what type of access I'll be utilizing. I've been giving a lot of thought into RX7 FC type rear bins..., or even making a pair of hinged rectangular openings in the plywood, instead of the entire top hinged (split along the lines of the carpet split)

from another forum Wrote:Quite cool Dan.
split opening might work best. Maybe do a small reinforcement on the lid.

thanks....

the template was the first key factor... getting something the fits all the contours. Now that that is done, I have to look at what exactly I want.

The RX7 bins would be obvious to even a casual viewer that there is some concealed storage, where as the split hinged lids would be less obvious that they are storage. The RX7 type (bins) is the strongest design type for I affix the lid to the front - adding support/structure to both, and then cut out sections in the lid for the RX7 bins...

I do have the ability to support the front wall so it could stand and fully support the entire width of the lid... if you look carefully at the dotted line drawing, at the front base of the wheel well you can see a 6mm hole, I can add a rivnet there and use that to brace/support the front adequately to support the top. This would allow for the most usable space... but would be the least overall strong.

A possible 3rd idea is to make my own bins... using the strength of the affixed lid to the front, but cutting out large enough panels to allow good access and then mounting the panels back into their cut out locations using a small steel strip to support the hatches, the carpet can then lay over the 2 lids. This way I get strength and stealth (hidden, secure, lockable storage)

[oldeskewltoy]

one step further.....






now I need a piano hinge, and some angle mounting hardware.


More to come.....

[einneb]

Why do you make that box ?

[oldeskewltoy]

einneb Wrote:Why do you make that box ?

good question....

My car is now equipped with Recaro seats., and although the Recaros are blue, they clash (visually disturbing) with the blue OEM rear seat pattern. By eliminating the rear seats, I eliminate the clash.

BUT... by eliminating the rear seat, I cause a large unusable, unsightly, and noisy area behind the seats.

The "box" makes it usable by extending the surface, providing a secure storage area(by adding a hidden hatch), and minimizing the road noise intrusion.

[oldeskewltoy]

Besides working on finishing the rear enclosure.... I managed to come across some Cibie headlamps.

Now before I go to far off track... US road lighting laws SUCKED... or they use too...

oldeskewltoy Wrote:

I sent an email to Daniel Stern Lighting.....

and now for a brief history lesson

Daniel Stern Lighting Wrote:You bought a set of Cibie BOBI headlamps. BOBI stands for "Bloc Optique à Ballon Incoloré", which is French for "Headlamp unit with clear balloon". Remove the bulb and you'll see a glass balloon separates the bulb chamber from the space between the lens and the reflector. This is what is meant by "Bulb-type sealed beam". These are not European-code headlamps; they are US-spec headlamps that were briefly available in the early 1980s until the US domestic sealed-beam industry hollared bloody murder ("THAT'S NOT A SEALED BEAM!!!") and the US Federal Department of Transportation, in the spirit of market protection, hastily rewrote the rules to define a replaceable-bulb sealed beam out of the regulations. The space between the glass balloon and the headlamp lens is filled with helium. The idea was to combine the corrosion resistance of a sealed beam with the optical efficiency and convenience of replaceable bulbs. There were two or three different versions of the 200mm x 142mm BOBI lamp with substantially different lens optics and bulb clocking. These are not bad lamps, but all of them produce a very American beam pattern (central hot spot with wings, not a European-code cutoff-and-upsweep or cutoff-and-upstep beam. For best performance use an Osram 70/65w bulb ($21.59/ea here).

Some BOBI lamps take a standard H4 bulb; others have a ridge in the bulb seat and a matching notch in the modified-special-H4 bulb (in the latter case, grind down the bulb seat ridge to use standard H4 bulbs).

"that were briefly available in the early 1980s" - making them period correct for Surreptitious...






yesterday I found a Cibie catalog dating from 1985.... I took a screen capture to show the differences between E code, and bobi/Z-beams



view on left is light pattern on a wall in front of car, view on right is light pattern as viewed from above


more to come......