DIY: Hopeless project.

[Rascal21]

Thanks a lot for the offer Totta, I have inverted inserts though.

Thanks a lot for the reassurance on the diameter speculation

My top mounts are 5/8" ID, so I eventually found out they should fit, though IF the inserts have bigger top shaft diameter I can probably drill out the bearings.

The ones I ordered are 300/70 long, the springs I mentioned are probably a bit harder than that, so it shouldnt bottom out, I`ll be reporting on this later

My old inserts are definitely short stroke, and on closer inspection they did not seem to be leaking, but they have definitely seen better days, either way, I have no welding device capable of doing good job on cast metal, would also have to fab up a jig to do the job, have no time for that ATM so I`ll leave the old inserts alone for now, and see what can be done later on, in that case I can get new universal 40mm bilstein struts.

I was considering TRD inserts and TE71 spindles, and see if the 3-piece brake setup up front would fit on the TE71 spindle along with the brake caliper brackets.

The rear are definitely Escort coilovers with some fabbed up brackets on the axle and strut tower tubes with pitches in the wheel housings, for height adjustment I presume..

At the moment I also need new brake discs up front, they are probably 257x25,1 (Not to sure about the original thickness right this moment), and CP2270 calipers, but the brake pads are only allowing for 21mm discs, so I will simply get the same kind of discs I have in the rear (257x21) and mill the pads flat (Ferodo DS3000 with plenty left) as they are probably a little worn on one end and re-use them.

The same brake discs diameter front and rear is probably a bit weird, but the CP2382 2-pots w/DS2500 pads in the rear wont be as "bity" as the CP2270 4-pots w/DS3000 in the front, and I also have the Girling bias adjustor, so I should be able to find the balance

It`s a weird and hopeless car

[Rascal21]

A lot earlier than I expected, the inserts arrived already, I guess express shipping really means express!
Can highly recommend Burton Power

I`m guessing the top hats are on the way too, and ball joints for the LCA`s will be here tommorow.
The top mount bushings may have to be trimmed down quite a lot for the top shafts to get through enough to get the nuts on, they definitely have to be drilled out a bit but other than that I foresee no problems.

Quick question, I`m slamming a JDM ae86 motor into my TA40, I read about external 4AGE 16v fuel pumps here on this forum, and I noticed that a 130lph 5 bar pump is cited as being pretty good for the 16v, I found a Mercedes 280 external pump with those very same specs.
Any chances I`ll be facing issues with fuel pressure regulator?

[Bean]

Regarding the pump 130lph is more than enough if you stay NA, it will support 200+ easily.
If you stay under 170hp, a 80lph (I.e. OEM) one will be fine.

[Rascal21]

Nice, so the 130lph 5 bar one is to hardcore.
This one coulda been an alternative if only they`d stated lph
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-Maestro-Met...4d06f5c53b

Would have done a project thread on the ta40, it`s a fun car to work on because of it`s simplicity, but not sure where to put the thread, technically its becoming more and more of an AE86, but the bodystyle and chassis is still just ta40 after all.

[Bean]

The 130lph will work, just be sure that your fuel return line is adequate (OEM size is fine if clear).
So it's down to the price, if you can't get a smaller one for less, stick with the 130

[Rascal21]

Alright, 130lph it will be then
Will use old inlet line for return, and lay a new 8mm pipe for new inlet.

A little time-waster update on that:
Ready:


Set:


Go:


LOL:


I`m guessing HG, valves and pistons/rods because theres oil leaking around the whole engine now and the sounds it made the last time it ran reminded me of a arctic steamer ship.

It never ran right, valve-float at around 4000rpm somewhere.

Heck it costed me almost 3x more to just keep that engine running for as long as it did (3 years) than to just swap to 16v right away, I had just changed oil (not some shit oil), new OEM oil filter, changed dynamo, starter, fuel filter, air filter etc etc, and it simply died despite my best efforts considering the alloted time and budget I had, so thats that.

[Rascal21]

   
Progress earlier today, after coming home from a dinner party I got the engine&tranny in the car with transmission mounted on chassis, not entirely sure but I could have sworn I`m the first in the world to slap a 4AGE into a TA40.
Because if people had seen what I`m seeing (Will update with pic later on) they`d regret tossing the old TA40`s away like candy, this chassis has potential!!
Starting to rethink future plans for this car..

[Rascal21]

If I knew the engine was going to be placed this far back on TA40`s I should have just bought the two the previous owner of this one had, instead of just one!

The silly part is that the 4AGE mounts line up some 6,5-7cm further back than the 2T.
And since the 2T block is wider than the 4AGE, the mounts have to be longer as well, this poses a problem on the passenger side mount because the alternator gets in the way considering the 90 degree engine mount fabrication rule.

But other than that the swap was a breeze, this car already had a TA60 gearbox and driveshaft, so I took a EDM AE86 bellhousing (JDM can also be used, but it has clutch slave on our driver side so youd need an AE82 slave) and bolted it to the TA60 transmission, this way the shifter lines up with the OEM shifter placement

I know the AE86 gearbox has a better input shaft bearing, so will simply have to make do with the TA60 gearbox until I can find a AE86 gearbox to swap the TA60 bellhousing and tailgate+mechanism over.

[Rascal21]

Quick question, for powering up injectors, coil, ecu and fuel pump, I`m going to use a wire from Column and to a bunch of relays that I`ve set up in the engine bay.

Also put a wire for constant ECU power (7,5A)

I noticed that the ignition switch wire colors are the same as AE86, but I cannot for the life of me remember which one was for Ignition switched on? (I.e, not starter signal, which is Black-White, using the OEM one for that, put a wire on OEM, and to the firewall plug)

[Bean]

It's best practise to measure it instead of just relying on the schematics