4AC-4AGZE swap
Here's some more info, from my post on club4ag.
http://forums.club4ag.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=109141
Quote:SR-5 to GT-S conversion / swap - basic info.
Cut and pasted from my post in the technical section for those of you new and want an idea of what you may be getting into.
EDITED: For a little more clarity.
********************************************************************
1. Swap to electric fuel pump and gas lines (just do all the lines including the brake, much easier. GT-S tank if possible for the baffle - you could fabricate lines if you have the know how, but it's expensive and a pain)
Tip: have the brake line to the rear diff, the upper right 4-link disconnected and the car up on 4 jackstands as high as you can get it. (I had jack stands for my truck which go almost twice as high as the 2-ton cheapy models from the parts store)
It's a pain to get the lines up and you'll have to disconnect the center strap for the fuel tank to slide the looping portion of the return or vent line up to its mounting point.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
2. Remove & Replace all 3 harnesses attatched to the car w/all their electronics, the only thing I saved was the brake pedal switch, turn signal switch and under the hood the wiper motor, turn signals and parking/corner lights.
Some of the modules/relays are interchangable such as the head light relay, but the only way to tell is to physically compare them or their part#'s w/one off a GT-S. It's best to have a parts car or at least a running GT-S to compare to if it is you're first swap.
(ie: front harness [has fusebox,ect] dash harness [w/cluster,modules,ecu,cruise,ect] and rear body harness.)
Tip: buy some picks from sears or elsewhere, and use them to unclip the harness clips from the body/sheet metal - much easier, or a really thin/small set of needle nose pliers w/angled ends.
Note: When I did the front harness I pulled the fenders/head lights to make it easier. Also when you do the dash, if you haven't done it before plan to take a full day just for the dash (took me 5 hours to pull, install and reinstall and i've pulled one before)
Also, when doing the rear body harness on my 84 sr5 it had the park brake wiring on a seperate short harness coming from the pass kick panel fuse block under the pass carpet to the center.
The 85 GT-S body harness I had, the park brake wiring came from the harness itself as it passed the drivers seat, under the carpet to the center console.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
3. Remove the hood & radiator, pull the engine/trans/engine harness as one and replace. (the SR-5 and GT-S radiators are identical as is the fan clutch, and the heater control valve. You can swap the T50 trans from the SR-5 with a GT-S bell housing to the 4A-GE)
I'd also recommend locating at least the factory oil cooler set up and running it w/new hoses. If you do so clean out the oil cooler w/some parts clean (fill it up, shake it around and dump it out a few times)
Tip: remove the BVSV's from the rear coolant outlet of the cylinder head when removing/installing the motor, the top of them are plastic and are in a position they are easily broken when sliding the motor in and out. (BVSV = bimetal vacuum solenoid valve)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
4. Replace:
a. clutch hard line (from master cyl, to pass side trans tunnel)
b. MAF sensor
c. reservoirs (coolant/washer fluid)
d. install fuel filter on pass inner fender (stock mounting points are already on vehicle/welded in, just use the 10mm bolts - note: new toyota fuel pump comes w/the correct long bolts and isolators)
e. charcoal cannister from gt-s model (different than sr-5)
f. A/C idle up valve if you're going to run A/C.
g. Catalytic Convertor and exhaust from the cat back.
h. GT-S driveshaft.
i. GT-S throttle cable
Swap the clutch line bracket/mount from drivers side to pass side.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
6. Swap complete GT-S differential.
Complete = Housing/3rd member with: gears, axles, brakes (incl calipers/brackets/lines)
Tip: if done in conjunction with #1 it's easier and may save you some time.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
7. Whatever I missed in this short walkthrough/list. Anything I forgot or didn't mention.
********************************************************************
Parts needed:
1. Engine (complete, w/distributor, manifolds injectors, alternator smog equip, oil pressure sensor, coolant outlets/sensors, ect)
2. Engine harness
3. Throttle cable from GT-S (or cruise system w/cruise cable for a gt-s)
4. MAF sensor
5. Ignitor/Coil
6. Starter
7. Flywheel/clutch
8. GT-S bell housing
9. Coolant reservoir (GT-S is different)
10. Washer reservoir (if you want it, GT-S is different)
11. Dash harness (w/associated electronics & ecu)
12. Instrument Cluster
13. Fuel pump (don't worry about the fuel level sender, its the same)
14. Fuel & Brake lines.
15. Front body harness (w/associated electronics - ie head light relay, fuse box, ect)
16. Clutch fluid hard line
17. Catalytic Convertor
18. Cat-back exhaust (stock or not)
19. Rear body harness
20. GT-S throttle cable
21. Complete GT-S rear differential.
22. Brake proportioning valve if using an SR-5 built before 10/85 (any built after have the same one as the GT-S)
+ Anything I missed.
Note: Parts swapped over may need the brackets from the GT-S, IE: the coolant reservoir (has a small bracket that bolts the the pass side strut tower)
Or like on the ignitor/coil, my SR-5 didn't even seem to have the mounting holes for the bracket. So I had to make some out of aluminum stock bought at home depot.
The only other thing i had to fabricate was a small 1" 90 degree bracket for the cruise control motor.
********************************************************************
[blue]Enjoy, because I don't think I'll type this up again [xx(]
Andrew
|
Anyways its a van made by Toyota that also has a fixed rear axle that with some small alterations fits under the Hachi. The cool thing about this axle is that there is a wider and cheaper range of R&P's available for it.
