Central locking system

[amigaguy]

I'm gonna mount a new central locking system in my car.

The central locking system I have now makes it hard to turn the key to open the door. That along with problems with ICE in the keyholes makes it a difficult task to get the car unlocked sometimes. I have two keys which both are about to crack it seems.

To solve the situation I'm gonna mount new central lock motors in the door and hook it up to a combined remote controled car alarm / central locking / remote start system. (Probably not gonna use the remote start part, since it's probably to complicated for me)

The wiring diagram seems pretty straight forward, but I'm a bit uncertain about how to connect the direction light part. Should I hook it up directly to +12V on the direction light under the hood?

One more thing, what does the brakelight has to do with all of this, do I need to connect that? (I'm thinking that I would not have to connect PLUG 2 at all if I don't want the remote start to work)



Advice is appriciated.

[Ivan141]

The brakelight wire is used as a sort of switch I guess.. when you press the pedal, the wire gets 12 volts, which switches the starting system open or something like that. (so you'd need to press the brake pedal before turning the key).
The direction lights are probably hooked up parallel to the existing wires, so you'd need to splice into those wires or hook up the extra wires at the connectors.

If you leave your starting system as is and forget the start-interrupting device and remote starting then you wont need thoseconnections either I think.. the additional anti-theft measure couldnt hurt though.

[amigaguy]

I have now installed the central locking system in my car. (More or less.)

The control box requires a ground "signal" when the door is opened, but I could only find a wire that gave +12V when the door was closed, and 0V when the door was open.

Thought it would be the opposite so that the 12V would power the ceiling light when the door was open, but no

I have solved this (sort of) by using a "inverted" relay which connects to ground when the door is opened. The relay lets the signal through when the power is cut (when the door is opened).

This is how I have hooked it up now:



It's not a good solution I suppose as the relay is consuming power when the door is closed and the +12V goes through.

The reason why the control box needs the ground signal is that it will lock the doors automatically if I accidently unlock the car and don't open a door within 25 seconds.

So... well it works now... sort of... the thing is that if I turn the lightswitch in the ceiling to ON, or OFF the doors open sign in the dash comes on :-D

If anyone has any bright ideas for how I can rewire this that would be nice :-)

[EE80Liftback]

You could have used the signal on the door switch right away. This actually is a "ground signal" when the door is open.

The ceiling light bulb is connected to 12V on one side the other side goes to the door switch. If the door is closed the metal part of the door switch doesn't connect the wire to the chassis, hence there is no circuit and the bulb does not light. If you close the door the switch connects the wire to the chassis and the bulb lights.

If you measure the voltage on the wire once the door is open you measure 12V, however, what you measure is a current flow trough the bulb. Since your voltage meter consumes hardly any current the bulb doesn't light.

If you do not believe me try one of these:

1) Connect one wire of your multimeter to ground and the other one to the wire in between bulb and door switch. If you now set your multimeter to measure resistance (ohms) you should have a small reading when the door is closed (current can flow from wire to chassis) and a large reading or some indication of infinity (usually O.L.) if the door is open.

2) Instead of using a meter you could use another bulb. If you connect one side to ground and the other to the wire you'll see the bulb you connected and the bulb on the ceiling both shining at half their usual intensity if the door is open and the ceiling light on and connected bulb off when the door is closed. This shows that the lights are in series once the door is open (proving you measured the 12V you originally read from the meter trough the ceiling bulb) and the wire is connected to the chassis (hence, no voltage so no light on the connected bulb) if the door is closed.

[Ivan141]

Ahhh...I love it when people talk nurdy
Just kidding offcourse, what ee80 is saying seems to make perfect sense to me, it's the most basic idea to get the light on when the door is open, so it's probably what toyota did (no reason to overcomplicate things).

[amigaguy]

Ok, thanks...

I will try to hook the wire up directly to where my relay is now.

I just hope the central locking control box doesn't mind getting the 12V input when the door is closed...

I also disconnected the indicator lights from the control box today. They where blinking to much. (One time when unlocking, then FIVE times when I open the door.... and then after a while it flashes like 3 times more)

It looked like I was in a major traffic accident everytime I opened the door :-D

I think the three last flashes is because the engine isn't started, or at least the control box doesn't know it's started because I haven't hooked up the ignition signal wire yet. (didn't think I had to)

[Knudsen]

Use the stock doorswitch, "hack" into the wire running from the switch - NOTHING MORE! The Switch gives ground when door is open, when door is closed theres no connection what so ever.

The brakelight is for the remote starter circuit.

[Knudsen]

Which alarmunit is it? I may have installed it sometime in the past...

[EE80Liftback]

amigaguy Wrote:I just hope the central locking control box doesn't mind getting the 12V input when the door is closed...

It won't. In the control box there's a circuit that needs to flow to ground via the switch, no ground = no flow.

These control boxes are meant to fit most cars and almost all cars ceiling lights work this way. If you would switch off the ceiling light and the light in the boot with their own switches you'll see the 12V has gone and your relay set up won't work any more...

[zounds]

It looks like a THOR alarm diagram...