MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!

[jondee86]

The damper might be a Toyota specific part, so probably easier to
just try and find a washer. I don't have a pic just now, but consider
a standard round copper washer. On the outside it is smooth like a
regular washer.

On the inside circumference, parts are cut away to about half the
width of the washer, leaving around six "teeth" or posts that serve to
locate the washer on the centre bolt. Fuel passes up the outside of
the bolt thru the cutaways in the washer.

This is why if you put a plain washer in there, that fits close to the bolt,
fuel can't get thru. The toothed washer still seals, but around the outside
edge.

If push comes to shove, you can probably file some grooves in
the inside of a standard copper washer... enough to let a bit of fuel
thru and prove the point. A few 1 mm x 3 mm notches would be OK.

Cheers... jondee86

PS: Did you change the ballast resistor wiring ?

[Nanaki]

Okay I did wire the resistor up like that and it didnt make a difference then I wired it like i had it before.. same.. then I removed it all together and it was the same. So I left it off. I replaced the fuel pump and it seems to be alittle better but if I cram the gas pedal it will still bog down alittle. However if I just barely step on the gas i can get it to rev up to 5000rpm ( Might go higher but I stoped there. ) Also before It would only go up to about 2000 and then bog and die. ... Also there is still no fuel getting pumped back to the tank... I ran a new rubber gas line off the FPR and ran it into a coffee can and nothing ends up in there.. I did not find the said washer or anything like it with teeth cut in the inside diameter..

Im thinking that the timming is off or something.. i dont know.. !!

[Ivan141]

Either you dont have enough fuel pressure for the FPR to bypass some to the return line, or it is faulty. If youre sure your fuelpump is working, then where is all that fuel going?

[Nanaki]

Ivan141 Wrote:Either you dont have enough fuel pressure for the FPR to bypass some to the return line, or it is faulty. If youre sure your fuelpump is working, then where is all that fuel going?

Yah.. Its a new pump just installed yesterday.. I blew out all the fuel lines and even replaced the fuel filter.. It should be getting the right amount of fuel pressure.. Maybe that little seal is all I need.. also this morning for the hell of it I removed the jumper wires and it only will fire for 2-3 secs.. So that jumper wire jumping the 'black with orange' with the 'yellow' will keep it idling.. My question is this.. The plug behind the cam covers along the firewall ( Pictured above ) where is the center 'Yellow' wire going on your guys's cars? Or do you guys not have the Japanese spec engine? Im wondering where the yellow is traced to on the loom that goes into the firewall/side fender.. Just out of curiosity

[Ivan141]

Wish I could tell you, but my car is in storage 60 miles from home, and the one sitting in front of the house has nissan wiring.
That washer might be what you are looking for... does the little bugger stop the fuel from returning to the tank? In that case the engine will flood I guess..not too healthy for the fuelpump either.
Have you tried pulling the plugs right after it stalls? One look at those can tell you quite a lot about what the engine is doing (flooding, poor mixture, oil contamination).

[jondee86]

If the car starts and runs, then fuel is definitely getting into the rail.
The question that needs to be answered, is how much fuel ?? Dying
when you hit the throttle can indicate that there is only a dribble of fuel
getting in. At idle or revving without load, the amount of fuel required
by the injectors is very small. But when you stomp the throttle, the ECU
calls for a big squirt of fuel, which because of low flow/pressure, the
injectors cannot deliver. I'd guess that it just goes so lean the mixture
cannot be fired, and the engine dies.

Pull the FPR off the rail and crank it. If there is not a heap of fuel squirting
out from the rail, you have a blockage.

Pull the pulsation damper off the rail, take out the bolt from the banjo,
and crank it (or just get the pump to power up). If there is fuel squirting
out of the hose, the blockage is at the damper.

Fuel comes out of the banjo and goes up the outside of the bolt,
lifts the diaphragm, and then goes down the inside of the bolt to the rail.

Cheers... jondee86

[Nanaki]

I did pull the incoming fuel like off the rail and removed the damper and cranked it. Fuel comes out. I will try the same but just by removing the FPR later on.. Im still having a hard time locating one of those washers with the teeth in it.. Im curently not running a washer on the top of the banjo fitting and it isnt leaking oddly enough I thought that it would be getting enough fuel or more than enough that way but the more I think about it that washer does seem to play a part with giving the damper just enough fuel to create the right amount of fuel pressure? If this is true then that is my problem as i am not running one. Just hard to think something that small could cause such a big headache ( If that turns out to be the problem. ) im going to keep looking for one. however. If anyone has a pic of that 'toothed' top cooper washer that would help full to show some shops as they dont seem to know what the hell im talking about even if i draw it out ( from what I have pictured in my head that it looks like. )

[Ivan141]

A banjo fitting has a hollow space inside that is supposed to exactly align with the hole in the bolt. If you leave out a washer, the hole will be partly shut off by the banjo fitting. This might be a bad thing.. but any copper washer will work if that is the case (dont remember them being thick washers, so I dont suppose this is causing your problem).

[Nanaki]

Ivan141 Wrote:A banjo fitting has a hollow space inside that is supposed to exactly align with the hole in the bolt. If you leave out a washer, the hole will be partly shut off by the banjo fitting. This might be a bad thing.. but any copper washer will work if that is the case (dont remember them being thick washers, so I dont suppose this is causing your problem).

I agree. But however the Fuel Damper on the fuel rail is not made like the bolt that threads into the top of the Fuel filter. The damper is shaped like a Mushroom. It seems to allow fuel to flow into the banjo fitting and up along the bolt and up into the " Hood " like part at the top. Then down thru the inside of the bolt and out the very bottom. As the one that is on the fuel filter just shoots fuel up into the bottom of the bolt and out a drilled hole in the side of the bolt, and into the banjo fitting from there. The washer as jondee said allows for the top ( Between the " Hood " and the top of the banjo fitting to be sealed and hold the seal evenly around the bolt yet with the " Teeth " in the inside diamiter of the 'Top' washer it will still allow fuel to flow up into the 'Hood' of the Damper.. Or atleast that is how it is pictured in my head..

BUT.. Also as Jondee said a normal washer ( No teeth ) would prevent fuel to flow up into the 'Hood' of the damper, resulting in little or no fuel pressure/flow... In my case however there is no seal at all so its straight flowing from the fitting up into the 'Hood' Of the damper.

So im not completly ruling out that I need this ' washer with teeth on the inside ' as a posiblity i guess..

On a side note what is the timing suppose to be set up as? Im bad with remembering some crap.. I think i remember reading 10* @ BTDC??
I want to check and rule out timing first as I heard it can cause problems like this to happen ( Will start and idle but bogs when revved. ) I think it maybe off due to having to replace the Dizzy and all..

[Ivan141]

The engine will run with the timing off a fair bit.. I drove it a full tooth too advanced for a week once, and I've seen one set at 5 deg ATDC as well.. You'd really have to be far off the mark there. Timing should be 10 deg BTDC with the diagnosis plug jumpered. Make sure you've got the correct ignition components for your ECU and loom though, but I doubt this is causing your troubles.