My Tuned AE86 project

[thanhngo]

Had to shave the block to fit 16v rwd thermostat housing


Also shaved the 16v rwd alternator


Planning to use a EWP


Water outlet/inlet plans are as follows

[thanhngo]

After all that trouble...I decided I need to relocate the alternator to exhaust side for more space.

Decided on trying a Daihatsu charade alternator (3.1kg vs 3.8kg) Not much weight saving there. 20v alternator is 5kgs. I just hope it will have enuf amps...i think its around 40-50amp range.


Started measuring and making template for alternator bracket:


Again wasted more time >< because I found this:


Its a SR20DE alternator bracket, but if you mount it upside down on the exhaust side, it bolts up perfectly.


Here is the plan with the alternator:


Need to shave 14.6mm off the front and .4mm off the back of the bracket and it should line up (according to my measurements). The bracket is really heavy so next will be to put it on a diet while I get it shaved.

[thanhngo]

Boring Chassis Prep. Usual stuff of removing rust and deadener (this car has extra deadener) so nothing that interesting on that side.

Got a new toy however:
P-craft 4-2-1 N2 extractors from Japan.
Primary: 36mm ID, ~750mm length
Second: haven't measured
Exit: 2.5inch.

Brought this based on the tuned length was what I was after. Might be tempted to install this on the 16v to compare it against my current 4-1 RSR.



Oh and heres the other 'side project' (yeah I have a few of them...probably explains why im taking so long).


If I can't have a f20c, at least I can pretend I have one.

First step was to organise the 'electrical' wiring.
I went down to the salvage yard to find the connectors for these (ebay wants $150) or so but I found them on combination Honda Prelude (80s), Mitsibushi magna (90s) and Mazda (90s). So I started pulling out wires that weren't needed. Here is my SST of choice, a modified fruit pick.


Connect A: Just gotta wedge the top down and the wire will come out.


Connect B: Left sides and retainer, then pick the clip out.


Connect C:


Connect D:


Lots of excess wiring removed and quite boring but satisifying at the end. Will post wiring diagrams later.

[Dimitri]

looking like the same amazing quality as the last one, only this time with a lot more trick stuff

p.s i do quite like the s2000 cluster, was just trying to make an easier suggestion thats all

did you manage to speak to anthony?

[Conrad]

Quality, keep us updated

[thanhngo]

Thanks mate, yeah im playing around with bit more now since I like the 86 and trying to build it with stuff I like. I have a few more engine parts for later projects Which i will uncover when I get to it

Ok so to get this cluster running properly on an 86, there are 3 problems.
1. Speedo is electric
2. Temp Guage is pwmish signal (in order to light up the bars according to temp)
3. Fuel Guage reader is different.

There are commercial kits to resolve these problems and would cost around $150-$200. I wanted to do it a little different so here is the plan:

Use the 'speedo' as LCD readout with a toggle switch.
Output
* speedo of course
* water tempature
* oil tempature
* oil pressure

So thats 4 signals IN and 1 signal OUT - to accomplish this I will be using a 'Microcontroller'. (Ok I am NOT an expert...actually I am a newbie since I started this few weeks ago but sharing the experiences/learnings as I go).

So the first step is to make the speedo turn on from 0-300 on command. To get started, I needed a programmer and microchip at the very least.

Here is the programmer I brought: Its a Pickit2 starter kit with a lowpin count prototype board which comes with 16F690 microchip (microcontroller).


With this I write software and burn it to the chip. My first step is to build a signal generator to output 0-300. Got excited and twinkered with some lesson code, I was able to generate:

[parrot]

You crack me up!

There is no way anyone can say you go in half arsed.

As always, shall watch developments with interest and envy.

I thought your own recent personal developments may have put a stop to all this.......

[Ian.G]

Nice work man.

have you done any work on intercepting the fuel level sender yet ?

from my readings the s2000 fuel level sender provides

in the s2k manual (page 11-120) it tells you about the sender that is in one of 2 places:

1. On the main cartridge if its a UK car
2. On it's own separate catridge if its a US/Cananda car (this drops straight into the ae86 tank - if you can find one).

It outputs for ranges based upon E 1/4 1/2 3/4 F



can you try converting this on your PIX board and see what you get ? do you know the pins on the cluster for fuel yet ? I think there are two sets - one set that drives the fuel gauge and another that drives the low fuel light.

On the AE86 side of things page (BE-26) in the manual describes the fuel level sender as so.





Any tests you could do based upon the above would be very useful as I have to do this myself as my sk2 powered car still runs the 86 fuel level sender.

Good work so far man.

[Conrad]

Nice one Ian

[thanhngo]

I have had a brief look and have a solution (haven't tested it yet).

If you have a AP1 cluster, the Fuel Sensor Guage input is C8. There is no separate wire for 'empty light' as I am sure its built-in to the cluster. Hence when you reach that resistance (130-132ohms), the cluster will light empty. When I turn the cluster on with wire not connected, the empty lights up by default.

They are both resistance types (varied resistance gives different guage readings) so its not a hard problem that I can foresee.

There are 3 ways that I can see to solve the fuel problem.

1. If you are using a toyota sensor, you can use a mutlipot or fixed resister to linearise the signal. Problem is the guage won't read full bars but at least towards empty will show - easiest but not the most accurate.

2. Use the microchip to perform a ADC then DAC. This will give you flexibility but its a little more complicated than 3

3. Get a s2000 fuel sender! I brought one from a US car but it isn't a bolton affair as I read.

The fuel sensor is part of the fuel pickup but can be easily separated. I plan to disassemble the 86 one, then modify it so the s2000 fuel sensor can be mounted onto it. Wiring is easy, but the only other thing you need to think about is mounting/calibration.

My initial measurements indicate that the s2000 cluster has a -2cm displacement heigh over the 86 one. The solution I have planned is bend the float arm to reduce some of the angles to enable a "longer" float arm throw. This will allow the sensor to have the same displacement as an 86 guage and hence, calibrated to the same tank height. I will do a detailed writeup once I get to this stage but im confident this will work.

In addition, the 86 sensor is notorous for failing so hence why I ended up deciding to replace it with a modern unit which is of more robust design. Two birds, one stone.

If you guys are using aftermarket ECU with you f20c you will still have a temp guage problem as the temp bars use semi-pwm style output. http://www.modifry.com sells a temp guage adapter if you are interested.

I'm building this one myself, in addition to speedo corrector. I will post results soon. I have the temp guage bars working and working on a robust program to read a toyota VSS and display the speed on the cluster.

Hope that wasn't too detailed of a response