Camber Adjustment

[NoHachi]

Adjustable caster arms are a special case. They allow you to change the static caster (as you would on an allignment machine) but because most of them use a rod-end mounted further outboard then the OEM bushing, they also change your dynamic toe, caster and camber curves. (They effectively change the lower front from an A-arm to a semi-trailing arm). You should really only use them in cases where you believe that a massive amount of caster will be beneficial. If you only intend to run a degree or two, then you are better of without adjustables with some fresh bushings.

Also: If you do intend to run massive caster, please change the inner LCA bushing to a rod end. The caster arm "pulls" the LCA forward. To do this the LCA has to rotate around its mounting bushing. Rotate it to much and the bushing will start to bind.

Most rod-end LCA's are also adjustable for length (and as a result camber too). Its better to use camberplates though as changing the length again changes geometry (Ackerman

For more info see here:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106522

Thats a lot of technical, hard to understand reading. End result: bumpsteer. Those who want to experience how bad it can get can join me for a drive in my car. Very difficult to live with on a daily basis on non-smooth roads. The advantages of caster and rod-ends are better noticeable on track...just don't hit a kerb.