NoHachi Wrote:MatthewG Wrote:thats even better! cause you can "change" the hp output easier with a boostcontroller then with a (expensive) set of different pulleys...
for my personal taste, turbo is the best way for a forced induction engine,.
i love the "turboboostpunch" !
Thats the thing about boost.. you just add boost and whoppa magic hp. What they don't tell you is the 200E you spend on intake piping, or 80E here and there on silicone hose and hoseclamp replacements, the ecu and tuning you need to make power. The 400E for injectors that will sustain 250+hp, the fact that a silvertop wil not survive 200+hp on a regular basis without regular rebuilds. Problem's you'll have with boost leaks, exhaust leaks, things melting under the hood. The new fuelpump for 100E, new thicker fuel lines for 50E. Then you break your first T50 gearbox and have to sink 500E into a W-box and bellhousing adapter, but that might mean a custom drive shaft and time to worry about the rear axle: if you want to drift, it will want to break unless you know exactly what works. Stock hachi brakes are rediculously under sized for big power. So best bet is 600E for Wilwood or FD callipers....etc etc etc
Been there, done that, have the 250whp hachi and the resulting hole in my wallet. 
Short story: if you think a PULLEY is expensive, then you have NO IDEA of the real costs associated with a boosted AE86. 
A Rotrex on mild boost is nice but its nothing special and damned expensive. Just a turbo driven of the crank instead of the exhaust.
If I had to do things all over again I would do the following:
Repair chassis and rust proof/waxoil/owatrol/dinitrol the living daylights out of it.
Add poly control arm bushings and new stock 4 link bushes
Add decent suspension, HTS and T3 struts + ARB's and RCAs
Buy capable brakes. Wilwood or RX7
Add a nice full exhaust, over axle if you daily it and don't plan on tortoising over speed bumps. 2.5 inch minimum to make GZE possible later. Header with decent size primaries (again to sustain boost).
Buy nice rims to fit over brakes and complete the look
Take a look at wallet. Decide whether adding power is possible. Choose between 20v (no boost) or GZE. Keep car under 170hp~180hp or so and it will be dead reliable. Go over it and enjoy mucho heat issues, brake pads dissapearing in a single track session. Granading rear axles etc. Really its that simple... ofcourse thats only in my brain and experience. AE86 responds well to KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) 
thats all true! never said that more power will have unlimited lifetime for any components or that performance will cost "nothing".
but for me its clear, that the car is in top condition before any engine performance! as you guys know my car, i would never boost it until its in best technical condition.
every hachi owner/performer knows the weak points of our cars!
you said, that a rotrex is nothing special at low boost, thats true, but why spending money in a rotrex to have the same boostlevel?
every gze owner talks about the magical "200hp limit", with a rotrex you dont have this limit! thats fact! i am also sure that a rotrex have a better hp-output then the other supercharger kinds.
cheers martin
