Bean Bandits Levin 'Globetrotter'

[NoHachi]

Independent height adjustment:
This is just not needed, unless you plan to run a wide range of spring rates. Its a gimmick being sold as an advantage by companies that re-use generic shocks on multiple cars. You will be hard pressed to find any serious race car shock with this particular feature.

What you ought to figure out is what ride height you want to/need to/can run in practice. You don't want to screw around with ride height too much, unless you accept the full alignment every time you fancy a change.
Once you know the max ride height you'll accept, you then need to figure out the stroke you'll need from the suspension. That's a matter of spring rates/tires/arb's, search around here for threads on the subject (short stroking as particular topic).
If you know the stroke, then you know the max shock length that will get you there. Using the max shock length instead of too short shocks allows for lots of droop. Lots of droop == lots of control through wipperman, pflanzgarten, flugplatz and your local mountain roads.
Don't underestimate this, the more stroke a suspension system has to work with, the easier it is to get good chassis control.

Mono-tube design:
Big monotubes can be nice (react fast, dissipate heat easily), but a well matched twin-tube design works really well too. Don't dismiss them to early! The advantage of twin-tube shocks is that part of the valving is placed in the footvalve, instead of competing for piston real estate. The adjusters can be 100% separate and usually they have a much wider range of useful adjustment. If you want adjusters, twin tubes are a MUCH better bet. Just get dyno sheets to be able to match them.
As an example: GAZ do a twintube shock that just about covers all MX5 from stock rates (2-3kg/mm) to 13kg/mm cup cars. The available range is that big.

If you are interested in this path, Koni do the 8611 series compression and rebound adjustable shock that will fit inside a AE86 housing if you ream the housing slightly or strip the housing of its paint. Then you have GAZ, HTS etc which you already know (how do you feel about the HTS setup?)

Adjust-ability to suit normal sane use:
Most shocks will cover this just fine, but don't overestimate their effect. A shock valved decently for its spring should not need different settings for street or track.

If you want to have a chameleon like daily dual purpose cars, the most important factors are not springs/shocks.
Tires have a HUGE effect on initial bump absorption and road clearance. If you have space to run a higher sidewall tire for daily duty, ride quality is much improved with a small performance penalty.
The next big thing are bushings. I changed from linear valved bilsteins and rubber bushings to very sweet double digressive monotubes and poly bushings. Ride quality was worse, despite better shocks. Particularly over short sharp bumps. In those circumstances its the rubber parts reacting quickest, long before a shock builds enough pressure to even start thinking about blowing off.
Earlier I nearly tripled my spring rates from stock and ride comfort improved. If they help keep the stroke of the suspension away from the bumpstops, then ride will improve.
Lower spring rates always need more stroke. Need to remember that.

Big monotubes are better then smaller ones for this..and I mean bigger then what will fit inside an AE86 strut.

I know that this is a ton of stuff to process, but its just an amalgam of things I've picked up along the way. I would now be more then happy to run simply a well adjusted digressive bilstein sport shock, without any adjusters at all at a ride height that won't get me any Speedhunters coverage. You live, you learn.

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Having said that, the dyno curves for the single adjustable Stance valved shocks don't look to shabby. If that's what you get, its certainly in the ballpark. Bugger that there is so little info about them.
If using them with lower springrates I would want to make sure that they have enough stroke available. An AE86 ideally needs about 100mm's to work well, 110mm would be better. Shouldn't be a problem I think.
Doesn't seem like the triples add much over the singles.