Adam's volvo 242 nonsense

[Rascal21]

(10-14-2018 12:57 PM)adomz Wrote:  

Destiny works in mysterious ways, this gave me an idea for TA40 leaf-spring rear end>4-link rear end conversion.
Thx

Volvo's are awesome, been following a certain Canadian Volvo enthusiast on Youtube for a few years now and have seen what he can do with non-turbo+auto+open diff Volvo's when he's pretty much stoned.
For reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QPBSqnOAdo
I have been drifting a friends turbo 940 wagon (open diff) a little.
The minimal effort needed in getting and keeping that thing sideways on ice/snow is staggering.

With that as a reference, if the only thing you ever do to this car is rust welding and some coilovers with Bilstein inserts and 16v+turbo conversion you have an insane car already, much less with a LS400 rear subframe assembly!

Honestly that rust isn't hard to stop, and your Volvo is a battle master tank.
I have an AE86 in my shed that's FAR worse and it can still easily be saved.
All that structural rust you're seeing on the rear axle brackets on the body is mostly surface rust on some seriously thick steel construction, it's pretty much harmless surface rust easily taken care of by a wire-wheel on an angle grinder then some "rust milk" splashed on and spread out by hand for quick measure before you paint it, bathe it in some Wurth zinc spray, then some black Corroprotection spray paint, then spray 10-15 boxes of that rough surface protection (the plastic kind of stuff that wrinkles up when it dries) that they usually just change the brand and name on for every cheap autostore in every country (in Scandinavia its Biltema, in the U.S its Harbor Freight and so forth) and it should be good to go.

I've seen Volvo's slam into street lights fully sideways at 60-70kph and still be structurally sound (in comparison, most BMW's get bent all out of shape when lightly clipping into said street light or rear wheels hitting curbs sideways in roundabouts at far less than half that speed), so don't be too bothered by those rocker panels, they're just formal aesthetics for a Volvo.

Just get some 1mm thick plates breaked up in a 20-30 degree angle so you have something to work with, just use the edge right under the door as reference and keep cutting all the way, use some magnets to hold the b*tch in place and spot weld every 3-4cm.
If you ask me even that is too much, I can pretty much count the amount of factory spot-welds on older cars by mind, and they still need to be 50% gone to actually be structurally unsafe.

Seen cars with rocker and wheel arch repairs mostly held together by Fusor body-glue and the metal broke AROUND the glued areas!

Don't bother making the profile where rocker's meet perfectly round as from factory.
Smooth out the edges before rocker meets front and rear wheel arches with some bodyfiller = good enough for that Swedish battle machine

For the LS400 sub-assembly just modify it until it fits the volvo floor with just some holes drilled through, that's what they did at the factory anyway, it just looks fancier.
Some plates welded in up top on the floors inside the car should make sure it doesnt budge even with 700hp.

Just use what you got and make it count, if you start nitpicking on this car you'll never drive it, if you smash it up just bring the 16v and LS400 stuff over to a 940 or something