Suspensions and stearing setups

[matt mead]

Quote:My car is fast, don´t work bad... but I think it can work better I have a problem with understeer and this made the change of understeer/oversteer very hard... I think that is posible make the car more neutral and it work better....

Oh ok, sorry for my basic explination again, i thoguht u had no idea about suspension!!!!! sorry

Quote:think my problem can be the front camber/caster/toe setup

Have a look at this website, give you a better understanding of what toe, camber and castor is:

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

how your Camber, Castor and Toe is setup depends on the type of road conditions and what dicipline you are planning on doing...

for grip driving i run:
Camber: -3.0
Castor: +4 degrees
Toe: Zero (as i dont really understand toe)

Drift:
Camber: -4.0
Castor: +3 degrees
Toe: Zero

Its hard to explain y i do this as i dont really ahve a great understanding of castor,camber and toe... but i know in my head y it works, but i cant really explain it... if you want me to explain it i can try and come up with something

Quote:think my problem can be the spring rates

I personally think that 7 and 5kg spring are to stiff. (but u have to remeber with suspension it personal preference) I run 6.5kg F and 3.9kg R, but this is more grip setup but i also know ppl who succesfull run 8kgF 7kgR for drift....

have a read of what one of my good mates posted up on http://www.hachiroku.com.au about spring rates then you will understand the reasons y i use my spring rates.

Quote: get asked this alot so i will post the answer before the question is asked and doesn't comply with the NEW forum rules which even i don't fully understand

Step 1 .

Now if you walk into any suspension shop of spring supplier and they don't ask how many Lb/In { which is LBS in a inch } which is the amount of force required to compress the spring .

2.

If they answer you in Kg/mm { which is kilogram per millimeter } then they have already spoted that you are a hetic drift kid then there going to spin you alot of bullshit and sell you some rate that they couldn't get rid of .

3.

So you have arrived at the point where you are going off the club4age { oppsclub4AGE , mustn't forget the capitals } school of stupid KG rates . Which really is a stupid idea because who the hell is really going to set up a car that is adjusted to the millimeter crazy .

4.

So you need the maths to convert this but due to imperial and metric rules there are a few ways of doing this , and you get a few different answers .

5.

Lets stick to a basic one l

kg/mm kilogram per millimeter to convert this to Lb pounds you
multiply it by x 2.22 , this gives you pounds in a kilogram

* eg * less take 6kg/mm x 2.22 this equals = 13.32 this is how many pounds in a millimeter

Now you need to convert that 13.32 to force over a inch , and millimeter to inch is x 25.4

so we take 13.32 x 25.4 = 338.32 lbs

a 6kg/mm spring is a 338.32 lb/in spring in linear measurement

now lbs to kg is 1 Lbs = 0.4535924 Kg so 338.32 = 153.459

you need 153.459kg to compress that spring one inch or 25mm

so you hetic drift kid are going to have 8kg front springs which is 451 lb/in spring or 204.57 kg to compress it 25.4mm

your 86 weights 465kg at the front , you add two springs so 409.14kg so you front suspension compresses 28.867867mm loaded

sic

Basicly it say your stiff springs can hold basicly the weight of the car meaning you shock absorbes dont get the opportunity to do there job, also in a 20year old 86 with chassis that are either rusted or falling apart you will find with 7 and 8kg spring the chaisse will bend and twist before your springs will even move....

however stiffer spring are affective for drift as most indivudals are sideways before entering a cornor using the oversteer to counter the understeer, and more succesfull ae86 drifters like ueo actualy like undeersteer as they use this to 4wd drift which prevents there cars from spinning in compititon.

Quote:think my problem can be the swaybars

i havent personally started playing with swaybars yet, but the front oem swaybar is more then what you need for the front... however an adjustable rear swaybar is very worth while (will be getting one when money permits) as it can either cause or prevent oversteer, pending how it is adjusted... but this wont help you at all with your under steer problem......

like i said above, i think you should play with your dampers, runnig your rears softer then your fronts, it will create a better and mroe controlable balance...

and you also must remeber these are my opionins on what works for me and my driving style, the best way to find out what works is to get out on the track and play with stuff..... setting up ur car is a never ending challenge and not everyone is good at it... ppl who setup race cars get payed top dollar to do what they do...

cheers hope i have helped