10% faster ?

[Nomuken]

Power (hp) only make you faster in the straight line. But I don't think you wanna do 1/4 miles.
Tires, suspension, weight savings, proper gear ratios make you fast everywhere.
Seat time makes you a lot faster everywhere.

But if you do 1/4 mile calcs:
950kg 140hp will let you run 1320 feet in 14.366 seconds
so by adding horsepower:
950kg 150hp=> 14.039 sec
950kg 160hp=> 13.762 sec
by reducing weight:
850kg 140hp => 13.828 sec

So in straight line acceleration from a standing start +20hp = -100kg

[NoHachi]

Nomuken Wrote:So in straight line acceleration from a standing start +20hp = -100kg

We ran the same numbers on track MX5's and got similar results. +25hp= -100kg.

Other equivalency numbers.. I plan to run sub 02m:05s on our local track in slightly modified trim. Current prediction is 02m:07s with 1100kg raceweight and 140hp. To best 02m:05 we'll need 196hp.
Stock: 02:07/4300m = 29.5s/km
Race: 02:05/4300m = 29.0s/km

~50hp increase = ~0.5s/km
Thats just a 2% decrease for 50hp..

Run the same numbers for max lateral and longitudinal G's and you get a whole different picture..Thats why I'll be investing in AST triples and 225-15 hoosiers instead of hp. I expect that the 86 is very much similar.

[NoHachi]

There is a free program out there called Bosch trackSim that will run these kinds of numbers for you..but its not exactly intuitive in its user interface and needs LOTS of numbers.

[Project D]

Nomuken Wrote:So in straight line acceleration from a standing start +20hp = -100kg

HP make you faster only on acceleration but weight reduction help also on braking (newton's laws) and cornering (down mass center).

Like lotus's slogan says: "light is right"

[Bean]

As for what to use as you have it already I'd go for the cams and freedome ecu (if you know someone to map it) along with what you have on there now so modified smallport intake etc... that should be good for 7500rpm if you could stretch for underbucket shims you can take it to 8krpm all day long. This is with a healthy bottom end. Weakes part ob the bottom end for high revs are the conrod bolts as they tend to stretch too much at high rpm.
As you are in uk try getting hold of BenR from awt.co.uk he built a couple of very good 4A-GEs

[oldeskewltoy]

totta Crolla Wrote:I have accumulated some parts over the years and I will list them together with the car specs. so maybe you could tell me what you think I should use.

Parts shown with a * are not yet fitted.

Smallport engine fitted using Bluetop ecu and sensors. Modded smallport inlet manifold. Stock airfilter. Tubular exhaust manifold and competition exhaust system.
Twin 45DCOE weber carbs, ready to fit with linkages and manifold etc *
CATCAMS 264in 260ex 9.5mm lift cams with underbucket shims *
HKS valve springs *
Cusco MFE ECU *
Freedom ECU *
Superchip ICON programmable ignition piggyback *

The Superchip Icon can allow ignition timing adjustment to the Cusco or stock ECU If I "lock out" the stock distributor to use it with the carbs.

Please also keep in mind that the car is used for tarmac rallying and the car that won my class over the weekend on one of the fastest rallies of the year was a 200hp 850kg Civic. It came a very creditable 2nd overall in icy conditions.

10% is a lot I know but I would like to do better than 6th in class !!

The car handles nicely and has plenty of grip and that is due mostly to the help and advice given by people on here so I thank you all very much.
Cheers, TC

my humble opinion....

Get rid of the bluetop ecu... in fact my VERY honest opinion... sell all the old ECU's you have... sell them as high priced as you can(like on club4ag - sell them as unique and "special") with the money you get from all the other management set ups, buy yourself a ViPec, or other mid grade, easy to tune COMPLETE management system.

Get rid of the Webers too.. sell those like you are selling the old ECUs...

Keep the cams, although you'll likely need another full compression point to properly run them.

carefully performed mods can easily net you a 10% power gain

[Uzelac]

I agree, sell all carburators and ECUs and put something that's easy to tune but have full capabilities (spark, fuel).
I beleive ITB's are not that essential but would help.

I like the cams, think they are great for rally use, better to have lift than revs.

p.s. Of course, all that is less important than driver and handling characteristics.

[NoHachi]

Freedom ECU will do that just fine..if you can find someone who can tune it. Aren't all screens still in Japanese?

Mounting any ECU and getting all sensor working is a real !@#$%. So I would start trying to do a parallel install whilst keeping the engine running on the stock ECU. Once you have the driveability equal to stock, then add cams and other stuff. The timing map will be very close, fuelling shouldn't be to far off either. Good enough to get you from home to a rolling road for tuning.

[totta Crolla]

Thanks again to everyone, I would like if possible to have a plug in system (factory reliability) hence the Freedom ecu.
Would I be correct in thinking that the late AE92's use a knock sensor and exhaust temp sensor in order to run aggressive timing to make the most power or is it just an emissions thing ?
If I could get my current engine running to maximum factory power it would be a start I guess, how compromised is it currently by using the bluetop ecu, injectors and sensors I wonder ?
The Freedom has different maps loaded, anyone know if there is a standard 'reference' map within these ?
Oh and I worked that my belly is worth 6hp
So I'm gonna need a new racesuit next year too

[NoHachi]

Good luck with the Freedom ECU.. its a nice piece of equipment though.

Try contacting some of these guys. The Freedom discussion is toward the end and some non-Jap speaking people seemed to have figured some of this stuff out:
http://www.clubroadster.net/vb_forum/sho...729&page=3

If its just a matter of plugging it in and experimenting, then go right ahead.
Just run a wideband and wire up a small amp and some speakers to the knock sensor.