3rd member talk (ring&pinion setup etc.)
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07-25-2006, 02:54 PM
Post: #11
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3rd member talk (ring&pinion setup etc.)
I can see an easy way to put more oil in the differential (use half a U turn that has the same tread as the plug, and install it in the diff, making sure it points up. That way it will fill until “the half U” get to his top, how much depends on the size of “the half U”
My problem is that I think it is not a good idea to do that, and the pinion sealer will start to let go some oil. |
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07-25-2006, 03:49 PM
Post: #12
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3rd member talk (ring&pinion setup etc.)
I didnt think this one up myself.. a well respected ring and pinion manufacturer (richmond gear) recommends doing this for racing applications in their installation instruction video (which I have).
FABRICA MI DIEM, PVNC! |
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07-25-2006, 04:31 PM
Post: #13
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3rd member talk (ring&pinion setup etc.)
hey guys, really good writeups there!!
thumbsup!! adam will need all that soon i think! |
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07-25-2006, 04:53 PM
Post: #14
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3rd member talk (ring&pinion setup etc.)
Some helpful links and info:
Quote:20.1.2 Splash Lubrication Quote:Worm gear lubrication http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/D...ation.html http://www.qtcgears.com/Q410/QTC/Q410P441.htm http://www.machinerylubrication.com/arti...icleid=707 http://www.khkgears.co.jp/english/teach/KHK342_1.html Judging from this info..both factors may be influencing ring gear failure, but temperature failure is most likely. Also see the remark in one of the links about shockloads. Ordinary gear oild cannot handle the extreme stress from shockloads. In these cases synthetic fluid MUST be used..Now I am sure synthetics come at their own cost, but I'm too busy to find out now. A wheel to steer the front of the car A pedal to steer the rear |
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07-25-2006, 05:31 PM
Post: #15
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3rd member talk (ring&pinion setup etc.)
great link's
I thought that an LSD oil could handle something like 120º, but from what I read it's more like 90 |
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07-25-2006, 08:59 PM
Post: #16
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3rd member talk (ring&pinion setup etc.)
[quote="Ivan141"]
-Increasing capacitiy the other way, there is this build-up thread of an N2 spec ae86 coupe where the rear axle housing is modified to allow more oil in it. A sort of protrusion is welded on the rear of the axle for that purpose. I have also heard a similar story from a guy that used to race a KP60 starlet quote] My brother has the ae86 bible with all the part numbers and stuff and I too saw that the rear axle was modified this way.There was a description written in english and said something about the oil being pumped into the diff via a copper tube that was aimed right where the ring and pinion connected.I can look it up if u are interested, don't know if a cooler was also involved, probably yes. Real men race downhill |
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07-25-2006, 09:31 PM
Post: #17
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3rd member talk (ring&pinion setup etc.)
Quote:20.1.3 Forced-Circulation Lubrication Sounds like the above to me. Needed above 12m/s tangential speed. A wheel to steer the front of the car A pedal to steer the rear |
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07-26-2006, 08:46 AM
Post: #18
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3rd member talk (ring&pinion setup etc.)
On that subject, you can clearly see the oil pickup and oil return where the ring and pinion meet on the N2 car.
http://kaipower.web.fc2.com/story/ae86/v...ol.11.html Cant say I like the way that the protrusion looks, maybe it is done this way due to clearance issues. My guess is that it acts like an oilpan so the pickup always has enough oil to keep the gears lubricated. The website mentions a 400cc increase in oil capacity. Couldnt really see how the oil is routed outside of the axle. Also note all the funky modifications to the 5-links.. panhard is relocated%reinforced...but that's all a bit off-topic. FABRICA MI DIEM, PVNC! |
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07-26-2006, 08:58 AM
Post: #19
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3rd member talk (ring&pinion setup etc.)
The protrusion is made that way for a very good reason. Its the only way you can add volume to the housing, without changing the oil level. Going lower then the housing reduces already tight ground clearance. Anything above the oil filler cap doesn't get filled anyway. So you see the space you are left to work with.
To high an oil level will cause the gears to act too much like a whisk, beating the oil to a foam state. Foamed oil has very poor lubrication properties. Thats the reason that you ideally don't want to raise oil level in a car that won't be spending much of its time under high G cornering loads. A wheel to steer the front of the car A pedal to steer the rear |
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07-26-2006, 11:05 AM
Post: #20
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3rd member talk (ring&pinion setup etc.)
Hmm, maybe using an external reservoir (possibly combined with the oil cooler) would be a good solution for increasing the oil capacity without making large protrusions such as the one on the Kai Power AE86. The reservoir could be pressurized so that an electric oil pump would suck from the bottom of the diff housing, fill the reservoir and cooler, and then return the oil back. The return path could be done through a pair of oil squirters, similar to those used to cool the pistons on smallport 4A-GE - putting these on top of the diff housing would ensure a constant lubrication on the gears with cooled oil. A relief valve would probably be needed in addition to the squirters to keep a constant pressure on the squirters as having them as the only return path would probably create too much pressure in the system.
This would require drilling four holes to the diff housing (intake, two squirters and relief valve) and making threads for them. The relief valve and squirters can be connected with copper tube, so that only two steel braided hoses would leave from the diff housing to the pump, reservoir and cooler which would be mounted to the body of the car. The power for the pump could be taken either from the fuel pump, or by adding a separate fuse and a switch to the dashboard/center console. |
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