Banpei's new TA60 family cruiser

[banpei]

(10-03-2023 07:55 PM)The Doctor Wrote:  21301 VALVE SUB-ASSY, NEEDLE
21301-15160

Thats the Toyota part number of the needle valve.
Should be around 40 euro from Toyota (if it's still available).

Weird that the carb is flooding now. Normally they don't go wrong, unless some dirt is inside the fuel bowl, or someone messed with the float height, or the needle valve.

Not sure about chinese copies of the Aisin carbs, never had anything to do with them.


//edit: i've asked a friend, he might have some spare ones.

Thanks for the part number and asking Mark!
I see the part number is compatible with the TA40 and TA60 Celica. Does that mean I could also scavenge one from the 2T-B carbs that I have lying around?

I suspect it has to do with the PTZ fuel pump that doesn't have a return line. Previously any excess fuel would flow back to the tank through the return line. This now has changed and the fuel pump continuously keeps pumping fuel to the carb. This means the pressure will not be relieved. If the needle was already a bit dodgy and old, the float would not be able to close off the fuel supply enough. Replacing the needle probably helps, but perhaps its better to find a good replacement pump or add a bypass fuel regulator in the system. But that's the opinion of a non-mechanic, so I could be totally wrong.

[banpei]

After some sanding, the Black Racing rims aren't that black anymore:

I ran out of time, but the next step is to wash them, degrease them, and then paint them.

After some conversations with The Doctor, I realized that replacing the float needle might not actually solve the issue. The carburetor was working fine before the engine overhaul and the garage didn't touch it. I am getting more and more convinced the issue lies with the fuel pump that just keeps building up pressure because it doesn't have a return line.

I understood the first generation (TA12/TA22) doesn't have a fuel return line at all. The second generation (TA40) has the fuel return line on the carburetor. The third generation apparently moved the fuel return line to the fuel pump. So probably the float needles of the TA40 and TA60 would not solve my issue as they might be different. Similarly, a Chinese knockoff carb might also have the same issue. So I decided to first try a fuel pressure regulator with a bypass and ordered one.

[banpei]

Small update on the Black Racing rims. After sanding them down I cleaned them thoroughly and applied two layers of primer. I didn't take pictures of this proces, but I do have one picture when I applied the first layer of paint to the first wheel:

I ended up going for cheap ass Motip 51047 paint which appears to be somewhere between Watanabe gunmetal grey and bronze.

After three layers of paint I applied three layers of clear coat matte:



I'm quite pleased with the results. Not bad for a rattlecan job inside a shed.

There are a lot of flaws, like for instance this wheel where a spec of dust settled on the clear coat when it was still wet:

And you can still see some scratches of my sanding action, so that's not perfect either. But it was never my intention to make them perfect. If I wanted that, I would have sent them to some company that would coat them and make them perfect. I had low expectations to begin with, so I'm pleased enough.

In the meanwhile I have also painted the frames of the JDM tail lights. I forgot to take photos of that and I also need to paint the red stripe on them. So that progress will follow later.

[DJexor]

[oldskull]

Look good

[banpei]

Thanks!

[livelaughlevin]

the rims turned out great! what did you use to get this result? paint and sanding wise
. My old rims may get this treatment too till i can get some nice advans or ssr's

[banpei]

(10-29-2023 08:36 PM)livelaughlevin Wrote:  the rims turned out great! what did you use to get this result? paint and sanding wise
. My old rims may get this treatment too till i can get some nice advans or ssr's

I just sanded them down lightly with 120 grit at first to get most of the paint loose, then two more sanding rounds with 400 grit and 600 grit.
This made the surface smooth enough for two layers of primer. The primer was then sanded down with 600 grit.
Then three layers of paint and three layers of clearcoat so far. I still need to do the insides and then I'm done.

If I had to do it again, I would not use the 120 grit but immediately go for 240. There were still some scratches visible from the 120 grit after I sanded down the primer. However, I couldn't be bothered to do another primer session. I regret this because now it's still faintly visible in the final layers.

[livelaughlevin]

(10-30-2023 10:46 PM)banpei Wrote:  

(10-29-2023 08:36 PM)livelaughlevin Wrote:  the rims turned out great! what did you use to get this result? paint and sanding wise
. My old rims may get this treatment too till i can get some nice advans or ssr's

I just sanded them down lightly with 120 grit at first to get most of the paint loose, then two more sanding rounds with 400 grit and 600 grit.
This made the surface smooth enough for two layers of primer. The primer was then sanded down with 600 grit.
Then three layers of paint and three layers of clearcoat so far. I still need to do the insides and then I'm done.

ah, where did you find the paint? could only find model scale packages so that would turn out pretty expensive

If I had to do it again, I would not use the 120 grit but immediately go for 240. There were still some scratches visible from the 120 grit after I sanded down the primer. However, I couldn't be bothered to do another primer session. I regret this because now it's still faintly visible in the final layers.

[banpei]

(11-03-2023 12:15 PM)livelaughlevin Wrote:  ah, where did you find the paint? could only find model scale packages so that would turn out pretty expensive

I bought Motip paint at Fource in my hometown.
You can find their retail stores here:
https://automotive.fource.nl/vestigingen/
I think the one in Utrecht will be the nearest for you.