Boost Gauge help with Pictures

[Okami]

So... I have tried the test with my finger... WORKS!

I have tried screwing the little thingy DEEP into the Bolt
I have tried screwing the little thingy LOOSE into the Bolt

All I get is that it reads 0.0 bar and then when I floor it : 0.1 bar.
Maybe I should remove the adjustment bolt and put one of the xtra's on it that came with the boost meter.

I will try that next.

[Okami]

Ok... the Extra's that came with the meter don't fit where I want them to...
So now I just removed the screw inside the line coming from the fuel pressure regulator... Tomorrow I will see what it does - if it does nothing than I have no CLUE whatsoever of what is wrong with it.

[NoHachi]

You can suck at the meter and see it moving to vacuum, blow for boost. Very diy checking method, just watch out that you start out easy so you don't ruin the gauge (dunno how much vacuum and boost you can produce..depends on your hobbies I guess :wink: )

[Okami]

NoHachi Wrote:You can suck at the meter and see it moving to vacuum, blow for boost. Very diy checking method, just watch out that you start out easy so you don't ruin the gauge (dunno how much vacuum and boost you can produce..depends on your hobbies I guess :wink: )

Thanks NoHachi

I removed the screw and it's now having a reading going from:
-0.4 boost I go to 0.0 boost

When I punch the throttle it runs up to +0.1 boost

So it works just fine tho I dont understand how it reads that stuff right now...
Super weird.
When Idling I have -0.4 and when I punch it I have +0.1 or 0.0
Going craaaazzzyyyyyy!

[mech5107]

-0,4 isn't very normal for idle, except you running some aggressive cams. A good engine should have at least -0.6bar.

I don't know how much bust the 4agze is meant to take, but also 0,1bar is nothing...
Is there any check valve in the vacuum line used for the boost signal?

[NoHachi]

You need to post a picture of "the thingy with the screw".

It shouldn't be this difficult and no screw should be needed. My guess now is that you have created an air leak by removing the screw..not good! Best not to drive it like that because it could affect the FPR (dunno the GZE system).

Keep IT Simple. Gauge->line->T-piece. Thats it.

[Okami]

Ok I will try to explain...

The boost meter is mounted at my dash.
It has 2 lines...
1 electrical line for 12v + ground.
1 line (small white tube-line) going to multiple golden screw / nuts / bolts (thats what I meant with thingy - I forgot the words Nuts and Bolts).

From the nuts and the bolts comes a slightly bigger hose that fits on the T piece.

so : meter > white tube line > nuts and bolts > black tube line > T-Piece

[NoHachi]

I think that's you problem. Try sucking on that bolt+screw thing or try and feel if you have vacuum on that thing with the engine idling. It should be a straight passage to the boost meter.

[Bean]

from what I can see on your second pic that <> shaped bit inside the screw is a crush fitting - so you would need to feed the white tube through it (have it sticking out a little on the other side) and then screw it very tight into the other end, this will compress it and form a good seal - this crush fittings are usually just a one time part as once crushed the seal if you take it apart a put it together again the seal wont be as good as in the beginning.
that screw on the other end is rather pointless to be honest, the only reason I could think of is that they made it to block the hose when no gauge is attached... is there a hole in the screw? if not take it out.

[Okami]

NoHachi Wrote:I think that's you problem. Try sucking on that bolt+screw thing or try and feel if you have vacuum on that thing with the engine idling. It should be a straight passage to the boost meter.

Thanks but I did remove the screw - just put it back for photos.
This morning I drove my wifey to her work and thats when I got the BELOW 0 vacuum (-0.4).

So its still weird. Now when I go to pick up the wife again I will see a 0 idle instead of -0.4.

I just dont understand this weird thing.