Cams for a stock 4age 16v

[MartinS]

Absolutly true, but I think even then you have somekind a "natural" limit, so you cant dial in them in the first 1000.

133whp would that be arround 160bhp?

[BOOMEX]

GTRJazz Wrote:Here is mine on the dyno made 133@ the wheels7650 rpm.
4AGE,HKS 264 cams,TVIS removed Kakimoto exhaust

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=krMns5rOTJ0

What is the lift of your cams?

[tolisspi]

I have a problem (not a first time)
Toda ll late the order for 1 /12 month.
Maybe i ll cancel the order and buy the lifter of yaris
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_2001_TO...302.3.html

[tolisspi]

The differents 1szfe and 4age. The 4age has shims too but 1szfe not have. What happen with the shims?

[fkn16v]

I believe it works like this

The lifters in a 4age are seperate to the shim, eg 2 pieces.

Where as the 1szfe lifter is thicker then 4age and is all in 1.

4age has 1 lifter size but different shim thickness, and 1szfe has different lifter thickness's, getting rid of the shim.

For the 1szfe im not sure what teh (j) and (l) are for?

[tolisspi]

Any new for the cams?
Experience?
I ll replace my cams with stock ones because i cant find a cheap standalone ecu or to replace them with something else but with stock ecu
I found this site
http://www.camshaftshop.co.nz/index.php/...ducts.html
and so is the 266 Duration, 8.75mm Lift for stock ecu?
more info
http://kelfordcams.com/applications.aspx
Also..
http://www.crower.com/cat/import/toyota/...afts.shtml

[Ivan141]

You cant find a cheap standalone?
If you find megasquirt expensive then you're budget is too tight.
If the build it yourself part is troubling you, there is a guy here in the netherlands who sells smd (surface mount components) versions of megasquirt with about everything you need for 250 euro's I believe.
http://www.bs-autotune.nl/content/view/66/76/

[Roku_trueno]

Really nice solution here Tolis! No need for a new wiring loom. Megasquirt might not be no1 in standalones, but it's significally better than a piggy pack one at about the same price.

[totta Crolla]

9.5mm lift is the absolute maximum you can use before fairly extensive head modification is required.
The cam lobe will hit the head casting at 10mm it is very close with 9.5mm lift.
Different valve springs will also be required at higher lifts too as the original springs will go close to "coil bound" much above 9mm.
So drop in cams, i.e only timing and shims needed are limited to lift of around 8.5mm, duration should not be too much of a problem.
If I were doing it all again I would look for cams with around 8.5mm lift and a duration between 256 and 268 degrees depending on compression ratio, effectively a higher compression (10.5 - 11-1) can make best use of the longer duration. hth
TC

[oldeskewltoy]

I differ with apardal... *IF* you have the cam card it can be easier to tell what your cams should spin too....

The current HKS cams run to 8000(256), 8300(264), and 8800(272)rpm. This is born out in the cam card/sheet






A friend gave me a rough translation of the Japanese text... the rpm points noted... are suggested spring minimums....


OEM cams die @6600 rpm. most 256 cams can be tuned in the low to mid 7k rpm range, 264 cams usually go the upper 7k, low 8k range.

In my humble opinion.........

The IDEAL cam to toss in a stock 4AG... a 248 duration cam... (stock is 240=bluetop, and 232=redtop), that way you can run it up closer to rev limiter(248 should go to about 7k), without losing too much in the bottom end do to excess duration lowering dynamic compression ratio. I'd also look for lifts around 8.1mm for that is about the safe point to run on stock springs before bind occurs.