DIY: Hopeless project.

[Rascal21]

Theyre P.A.S.S stacks, 40mm or 45mm or 50mm I think, just didnt know what to get at the time I bought them so I just got something


I just have to make plea here:

Any kind soul out there with a nose for EDM AE86 electronics?


Issues the car has is:
1: instrument cluster backlights not working , though they worked before when I tested the panel just a few months ago, I just dont get it..

2: headlights not working, signal lamps blinks 10 times faster than normal too (This started happening recently as well)

3: I`ve looked at the ae86 manuals but the only stuff I figured out from that is wire colors for tacho, oil pressure and water temp, but on both terminals @ cluster, the white and blue 14-ones that is, there are similar wire colors for all 3 instruments, like, theres one yellow-green on white terminal, and one yellow-green on blue terminal.. so naturally I would not be sure which to connect there

[Rascal21]

Nothing makes sense anymore..
Tacho, according to wiring diagram, is supposed to be black wire, but on my cluster teminal plugs there are NO black wires, I see Black/Brown Dots (For panel lights) and a black with stripe (Didnt see what color, bad lighting, but manual specified pure black)

Theres also another issue.
Oil Pressure and water temps should be easy to connect, right? Well.. Yellow/black, yellow/green wires are on both white and blue terminals for the cluster.. LOL

[Rascal21]

Turned out that the soldering on the light-switch @ gauge surround had gone bad, wiping the soldering plus cleaning it with some town-special and re-soldering it did the trick and the gauge lights worked again for a little, then stopped working... sigh..

It also turns out that the turn signals goes hardcore-trance speed on you if a turn signal lamp is not connected/has gone out (Thats actually kinnda smart)

Headlight issue seems to be that no power gets to the headlight relay @ engine bay fusebox, now thats a tough fish, the relay that sends power to the headlights works, but the headlight relay is not clicking (And I`ve tried quite a few) so I`m suspecting that either the assumed (i.e what the manual states) red-white wire from kick-panel relay to headlight relay might be shot somewhere in-between or theres a bad ground somewhere.

Anyone know if AE86 fuel gauge is compatible with any type of sender or does it HAVE to be an AE86 sender?

[Rascal21]

Well I got the engine running thx to Jon here reminding me of ECU ground:

Adjusted timing properly so no backfires, Idle sounds to be spot on for some reason too (Have seen a lot of people experiencing too high idles)

Now to figure out why on earth the CEL (Warning light), oil pressure gauge and tachometer are not showing feedback despite being connected to the harness

[Rascal21]

Well, some minor progress.

Decided to take the rear axle apart (Whilst on the car) to get rid of a 3rd-member oil leak (Probably pinion seal or 3rd member>diff housing seal)

Had to make my own slide-hammer to get the shafts out:

The welds only came out so-so with a mix of concave/extruded V-welds cuz I experienced wire feed issues and I`m shit at welding:


But at least the welds are holding, I guess an OK enough level of prep-work with an angle-grinder pays off!

I was wondering why AE86 shafts are so much harder to get out than on the TA40 (Which come out by hand), but as it turns out the AE86 shaft seals/bearings are way longer than those on the TA40, which I found surprising because both, minus brake arrangements, are essentially the same axle:


It also turns out my axle has shaft spacers as well (Not too thick ones though), though I can`t confirm that as ToyoDIY currently does not list the schematics, anyhows:


I`m not sure who was the last to reinstall the third member, but I`ve seen gaskets applied better, at least the CWP`s are ok despite leaks:


The rear brakes are pretty much shot though, I`ll have to re-grind the discs (Of which even the cheapest non-genuine costs 170E both sides), which are 264mm I believe, and get new pads (Ferodo has a nice set of pads for the CP2382 calipers, these pads go for around 100E both sides)

One of the disc spacer bell`s has to be re-made from scratch as well, to much metal has chipped off of it over the years.

Also, after A LOT of tinkering:

And thinking.. based on my headlight wiring arrangement I found out my car is West-German.

This theory was further reinforced when I was made aware of an old photo on Facebook, of my car (Taken way back in 198 somewhere in Sweden:

(Notice the soft springs Volvo-style and rear wheel flexing, LOL)
Some guys got around to talking about it in the comments, as it turns out this car was showcased on Toyota`s dealership in Kôln back in 1984, and while they were playing around with it on the Toyota parking lot, they managed to crash it into the only light-pole in the entire lot

This explains why the bonnet lock mechanism and bracket is entirely missing on my car )

Anyway, the story goes it was then sold off and modified into a works-car for Gr.A rally, and to my knowledge it was driven in such events until around 2003-2004 when it was semi-retired (More on that later)

Long story short, I need a German engine bay fusebox (Where the two High Beam 10A fuses can be installed in the fusebox, instead of those two holes being blocked) Anyone got one of these they can sell for cheap/trade? I have 2-3 non-german fuseboxes I think

[robokill]

i don't think we have german and non german fuse boxes. Probably fuseboxes that where with AFM or MAP could be different. I think I have a few laying around but the question is.

Which one do you need :-) Can you find a picture on the internet with the right setup ?

All in all you are really working on it. What did they do to the exhaust? Did the fueltank move as well seeing that the exhaust is now exiting on the right side of the car.

[Rascal21]

Well, if you have a look at the Parrot`s EU AE86 wiring guide, you`ll see that it shows two different engine bay fuseboxes, the West German version has a 10AMP fuse for each High Beam as well (Whereas the non-West German version has no fuse inserts there), but I can supply pictures of the difference today

I`m tired of the constantly defuncting TA40 (Read, engine) so I want the ae86 driveable asap
Even if that means I have to step up despite sinusitis

The fuel tank was removed, and replaced with a older KE/TE fuel tank placed in the boot, so the 2,5" exhaust was made to cross over to the passenger side, presumably to make slightly more resistance and less noise with the larger exhaust diameter

Then again it`s just a weird car that few people can get to grips with, some things on it are conventional, other parts are pretty unorthodox..

[Rascal21]

Here`s the fusebox comparison:


In other words, I need a fusebox that looks like the bottom one in this following pic:


The one in the bottom of the last pic was a result of me trying to replicate the old fusebox (Which had burned/melted because of several factors which I have long since rectified), by simply cutting up the plastic and slapping some connectors from the old fusebox into it.

But I`m still only getting one beam (Whether that is high or low beam I do not know since I cannot yet drive the car out of the garage), because the normal EDM boxes do not conform with the Germany Domestic Market boxes, they simply have different routing inside.

And yes I`ve tried adding the dimmer relay, but it`s not getting any power, the only way to get lights at all is to use the short-pin in place of the dimmer relay.

[Dave W]

I did some wiring almost like you mentioned. I took power from just one of the 10 amp fuses holders, [fused changes to 20 amps] and run it to a two way relay controled by the red-green wire from the steering column. I used the 2nd 10 amp fuse holder [also changes to 20 amps] for powering driving lites controled by another relay. Dave W

[Rascal21]

Yeah I considered doing the above, but the issue with this West German specimen compared to what seems like every other ae86 in existence is I`m having problems finding the original circuits for high beam and low beam going from dash-switch and column-switch, through the fender and into the fusebox, otherwise there`d be no issues at all fabbing up a good relay setup

Btw quick update with a quick 20v RWD coolant trick coming up tommorow if things goes as planned