Distributor position and cranking

[pack]

Hello there,

Just to make sure i'm doing the right thing.

I've removed my dizzy to place new exhaust manifold. Now took back my engine to the 0 mark at the timing belt pulley and place the distributor mark as the manual say.

When the engine is at the marks, doing a full compression on the first cilinder the rotor of the distributor should mark the first mark at the distributor cap right?

Thanks in advance

[jondee86]

You need to have the #1 cylinder @ TDC on the compression stroke. If
it is @ TDC on the exhaust stroke, the dizzy will be 180 deg out. Then
with the crankshaft timing mark on zero, set the dizzy in position with
the "ears" more or less in the middle of their adjustment. The rotor
should be alongside the #1 cylinder spark lead contact.

Cheers... jondee86

[pack]

jondee! Thanks for the reply!

To clarify the issue here, i've recently converted my AE86 to ITB's using the megasquirt management system.

I'm getting this trying to crank the engine.

It's all OK!

COmpression, Spark and Gasoline.

What i think is that i've put the distributor somehow 1 tooth ahead of it's position.... I'm getting mis-sparks.... What you think?

[fax0815]

Getting any detonations in the exhaust?

Might be 180° out, take the top cambelt cover of and see if the cambelt pulley marks line up with the tdc mark at the bottom, thats your compression stroke and thats where you need to silde in the dizzy.

If the engine had a rebuid, new timingbelts etc and never run since, you better be 100% sure take the rocker covers off and have a look what the cams look like on number 1 cylinder with the marks lined up (compression stroke), do they form a V?
If not the camgears were put the wrong slot, also while I´m writing that you shouldnt have decent compression with the camgears out...

[jondee86]

Need more fuel !!!! To get it started from cold you will need a A/F ratio
as rich as 10-11:1 and probably 13:1 when hot. The engine won't run at
18-19:1 AFR. If you have a Master Fuel trim, wind that up until it starts

Cheers... jondee86

PS: Needs air as well. 20V has an ECU controlled ISCV. How are you
getting idle air into the engine ? Throttles cracked open ?

[pack]

fax0815 Wrote:Getting any detonations in the exhaust?

Might be 180° out, take the top cambelt cover of and see if the cambelt pulley marks line up with the tdc mark at the bottom, thats your compression stroke and thats where you need to silde in the dizzy.

If the engine had a rebuid, new timingbelts etc and never run since, you better be 100% sure take the rocker covers off and have a look what the cams look like on number 1 cylinder with the marks lined up (compression stroke), do they form a V?
If not the camgears were put the wrong slot, also while I´m writing that you shouldnt have decent compression with the camgears out...

The engine hasn't been rebuild. The marks are aligned perfectly.

Yes, i'm getting detionations at the exhaust! That's why i've reduced the fuel quantities....

jondee86 Wrote:Need more fuel !!!! To get it started from cold you will need a A/F ratio
as rich as 10-11:1 and probably 13:1 when hot. The engine won't run at
18-19:1 AFR. If you have a Master Fuel trim, wind that up until it starts

Cheers... jondee86

PS: Needs air as well. 20V has an ECU controlled ISCV. How are you
getting idle air into the engine ? Throttles cracked open ?

jondee.... It's getting too much fuel, the O2 sensor get's flooded and get's wrong values.... A false "lean"...

I've reduced the amount of fuel to get it started...

I'm getting idle via a ISCV valve connected to the ITB's.

Thanks

[jondee86]

Well, it could just be that the timing is retarded a long way. Try pulling
the dizzy (with the cap off) out just far enough to disengage the gear.
When the gear is free, turn the rotor clockwise a little bit, and ease the
dizzy back in. You should be able to feel/see from the rotor position, when
it has moved forward one tooth. Plug it back in and try starting.

Once the engine is idling, check the timing with a light. Worst case, if you
can't get enough adjustment by turning the dizzy, you may need to
advance it one more tooth.

Cheers... jondee86

[pack]

Thanks jondee!

I suppose that is the problem. Here's what i got in mind.

Mark the 1st plug on the distributor.
Remove the cap.
Rotate the engine and place it on the marks.
Take the dizzy out and try to align it, according the manual.
Place the dizzy, with the rotor facing the 1st spark plug fitting.


And the advance the dizzy until i get a nice and smooth crank.

Then i have to strobe it to the definite position.

Maybe this could work

[jondee86]

Yes. If you rotate the engine to TDC before you take the cap off the
dizzy, you can check where the rotor is regarding the #1 spark lead
contact pin. If the tip of the rotor is alongside the pin, then the setting
is about right. If the rotor has not yet reached the pin, then the timing
will be a long way retarded.

Cheers... jondee86

[pack]

Later on today i'll be doing this

Thanks