Drift setup, choices on a budget

[ggrahl]

Hey guys, i've read a bunch of posts saying how you guys think that spending most of the money on track time is the best way to go. Definitely makes sense.

I have a pretty decent condition 86 sr-5 with a 3tc, dual weber carbs, rear disk brakes, I believe i have a manual rack, new exhaust, no cancerous rust, just a little surface rust. I have 4 matching wheels 13" tetas, and a pair of replica tetas 14". So far, I know i'm way better off than a lot of people with their new drift cars. I had to replace the battery (i put in an economical one), the brake booster, new wagner ebrake lines, it needs new pads in the front, possibly rotors in the back, some of the brake lines are cracking, the suspension looks old and shot, and the clutch isn't in the best of condition. I'm gonna have someone weld the differential (I've already decided on this, don't talk me out of it lol, best for my budget, and I don't wanna deal with another axle)

With all that said, and with your guys opinions on more drive time, what do you recommend? I will have 4,000 US dollars to budget in February to spend on whatever more or less (I'm in college, so it would have to last the next 6 months or so). My daily driver currently has blown piston rings and I drive about 400 miles a week, so if this ae86 can be a daily driver, that'd be great. I've been looking to buy the Megan coilovers for 1200 US dollars with the spindles attached, that would take care of the suspension, I'd also replace the bushings, 110 US dollars. Brake lines are pretty cheap, but if I replace em, I figure braided lines, or should I not worry about them? Should I just drive on the suspension I have until something goes? I also need new locks for my car, Solex 75 US dollars. I need an overflow tank, ??$$$?? If i get the coilovers, I'd get an RCA while I'm at it. I'd get the cheap Ebay strut bar for the rear, maybe front.
I don't have bucket seats, harness's, or roll bars/cages.

I personally enjoy working on my car, so I like to buy parts here and there just to keep me busy. If you guys don't think I have enough money to really accomplish much in drifting yet, then I'll just work on replacing parts, body kit, paint job, etc etc... I'm a college student, tight budget.

I'm also curious to know how much you guys spend on a drifting weekend? Here, events cost 50-70$, gas is 3.35$ per gallon, and how ever much for tires (used like 15-25$ each), so I figured a day at the track could EASILY cost 200 bucks, and that's without replacing anything that brakes lol. How do you guys go to and from the events? Do you drive the drifting car, or tow?

[CA86]

F-me....

that's cheap compared to the Netherlands...

An event costs between €150 and €250
1.5 to 2 tanks of petrol
couple of tires
food + drinks

My last drift day summed up to:
€170 for the event
€100 or so fuel
€30 (about) on drinks and food
2 tires I had laying around... all in all about €300 (according to xe.com $385)

braided brake lines are always a good idea, specailly if your changing the coil-overs... You'll already be taking them off (not sure though)
Bushing are most def worth the effot, but it's a b*tch to get them all in.
Maybe a bit stiffer engine mount and gearbox mount.?

[NoHachi]

- coilovers: fine low hassle solution, have them welded to your original struts for a more budget approach
- brake lines: if cracking replace with the cheapest you can find, breaded or not doesn't matter.
- Diff: welding is ok for now
- new locks: why solex? skip or find something cheaper
- overflow tank (radiator?) find something at a pick and pull and make it work any toyota will do (5-10$)
- RCA: jup
- strutbars: nope and definately not in the rear.
- bushings=ok

[fax0815]

as above:

1. coilovers (+RCA, adj panhard rod, wheel alignment)
2. bushings
3. welded diff
4. if the brake lines are broken fix them, sometimes OEM is just as expensive as braided lines
5. locks/ expansion tank from the scrapyard
6. fix what breaks

[zenki]

Interesting topic.

Do nrca give an advantage over rca's or is the difference not noticable?

CA86 Wrote:braided brake lines are always a good idea, specailly if your changing the coil-overs... You'll already be taking them off (not sure though)

To change suspension the brakelines don't come off.

[danielvanderwoude]

I would say make it stage 0 first. Meaning all fluids and filters replaced, fresh ignition parts etc and get some new (upgraded) brakes and brake lines. Replacing/upgrading bushings is a very good idea.

You absoluteley don`t need coilovers so find a cheaper suspension setup from a good manufacturer. But I am not sure if it is availeble for the sr5. BTW is there a strut difference between ae85 and ae86? Don`t buy 15inch and/or wide tires because then you wil need more HP. I believe that you learn to drift better with a "slow" car. Instead of powersliding you will need to drift on handling, shifting weights etc. Stripping your car is the cheapest and effective tuning but maybe not a good idea if you want to use it as a daily.

[fax0815]

zenki Wrote:Interesting topic.

Do nrca give an advantage over rca's or is the difference not noticable?

CA86 Wrote:braided brake lines are always a good idea, specailly if your changing the coil-overs... You'll already be taking them off (not sure though)

To change suspension the brakelines don't come off.

They do the same thing to your steering geometry, in addition NRCA´s add like 1-3°deg camber to what you already got depending on how low your car sits. They also add front track (~50mm).

If you remove the suspension it´s not neccesary to remove the brakes lines but it´s never going to be easier

[ggrahl]

The main reason I want to do the coil overs is for adjustability, and it kinda takes care of all the major suspension pieces, shock/strut/perch/spindle. For a new shock/strut/spring set-up, is about 500? And that doesn't include the camber adjsutment, or pillow ball top. So I feel 400 xtra or so will be worth it. About how long would a new set of coilovers last? Doing 3-4 meets a year and driving just around town. So less than 5k miles a year. I like to think they last a few years.. I'll check the junk yard for the locks, hopefully I can find a car. Good idea about the overflow tank.

[ggrahl]

CA86 Wrote:F-me....

that's cheap compared to the Netherlands...

An event costs between €150 and €250
1.5 to 2 tanks of petrol
couple of tires
food + drinks

My last drift day summed up to:
€170 for the event
€100 or so fuel
€30 (about) on drinks and food
2 tires I had laying around... all in all about €300 (according to xe.com $385)

Guess I can't complain about this anymore ^^ lol

NoHachi: I thought the rear strut bar helped lose traction in the rear, easier for initiating the drift?

[RymdSegel]

Hijacking old thread, are d2/ksport coilover kits stiff enough too use it for amateur drifting?
I've changed to urethane bushings too all around.