Ian.G's Track/Drift Levin.

[XJS]

nmwisima Wrote:

alimonos Wrote:Zax is it an open throttles setup(from silver or blacktop the ITBs) with map sensor? what e-manage you are using?

GReddy e-manage: an inexpensive fuel management system... blah...blah....blah...
There 's only one Greddy e-manage and it cost enough to scare you...
(its pretty affordable if you compare it with other aftermarket managemenbts though)

There's three versions: the "blue" e-manage, the "gold" e-manage and the newest, the "ultimate" e-manage.

[Ian.G]

Yes Jon,

lack of a cooler almost certainly contributed to the demise of my engine.

I am looking at options right now - either TRD dry sump system or Good quality oil cooler system and different sump pan.

[Ian.G]

This is the engine I have a chance of buying....hmm



Spec as follows:

Originally built by Raw Engineering in 2002 to TracPac Two (170 BHP) spec. at a cost of over £4000 - ran approximately 4000 miles as such.

Now up-rated by Paul Jackson of BPJ Engines to Irish Tarmac Rally Championship high torque spec. (at a total cost of £4100 and with zero miles since) via:

Fully machined rally spec. cylinder head with re-profiled valve seats and ports - valve size increased to suit short duration high-lift cams - new 1089 profile camshafts (245o @ 50th lift ), 32mm inlet valves, new valve springs and steel top caps and 28mm steel cam followers. Cometec head gasket, 45 mm throttle bodies, OMEX 500 fully mappable 3D engine computer, uprated fuel regulator, injectors and pump etc. Also has Tollbar Racing unique and safety minded anti-cavitation re-circulating water pump system (I think this is one of those Davies Craig electronic water systems)

I dunno if those ITBS will clear the master cylinder in the hachi but I'll maybe go and measure up on saturday.

Reasonable spec ?

[XJS]

Sounds good, IMHO. Does it have any dyno sheet when it was mapped?

[banpei]

It sounds very familiar somehow.
http://www.aeu86.org/viewtopic.php?t=2137

[Ian.G]

Yup - it is said to have a dyno sheet - plus we are only 20mins drive from a really accurate dyno so the guy could possibly take the car up there so I can see it make its power.

Well spotted banpei - spoke to the chap via his advert on racecarsdirect - I hadn't realised it was posted on here too - been a bit busy for general thread reading recently.

[Ian.G]

Well,

my brother and I have had a fun day removing the engine and gearbox from my hachi.

Before he arrived I striped out most of the dashboard apart from the crash pad itself so I can begin removing the rest of the aircon wiring and refridgeration unit. This will also allow me to remove the remote central locking wiring and unit, and almost certainly the electric windows at some point. The dash pannel can now be worked to install the oil temp and water temp gauges.

We decided to try and get the gearbox and engine out in one go - and we nearly did apart from we ran out of lift on the engine crane lol. So whilst it was all hanging in mid air we had to remove the gearbox which was fun.

So - what did we find.

1. The engine is standard as hell inside.
2. The flywheel looks pretty standard
3. The pistons and rods look standard
4. I am not sure how to determine this for sure but I am pretty certain this is not a 7 rib block, no sign of oil squirters anywhere
5. The cams are completely standard
6. The head appears to have had no work at all.

When we removed the sump we found lots of bits of metal on the oil strainer/pickup which is never a good sign.

So onto the damage

1. The main bearing closest to the back of the engine is badly destroyed
2. The big end bearing closest to the back of the engine is badly destroyed
3. The conrod closest to the back of the engine has a damaged bearing surface from the bearing failiure
4. The crank is marked from the main bearing failiure and the big end bearing - hopefully this can be reground.
5. cam seats are a little scratched but I'm not sure how serious this is.

The bores look in great shape though - and the piston rings seem like they are ok.

So based upon all of this we can determine that the previous owner in japan simply banged on the throttle bodies and freedom ecu and ran it standard with external bolt on parts. If it lasted 210,000km thats not too bad I guess.

Now we have to decide what we are going to do to recover from this mess. Needless to say it wont be cheap.

[Ian.G]

more pictures

[Matt Skinner]

Whats happening with the old engine?

[Ian.G]

Depends...

block is good...how can I know for sure its not a 7-ribber ?

Crank with be crack tested, reground and polished if possible. If its good I will either cryogenically treat it or nitride it to make it a stronger. Don't know how many times you can re-grind a 4AGE crank - don't know if its already been done before.

One of the conrods could be dead from bearing pickup - so I either find another std one or replace the whole set with some stronger ones.

Oversized king main bearings and big end bearings will be used.

Pistons are probably ok - maybe just a clean up and some fresh rings - or again - maybe some new forged ones.

Once the bottom end is built up like that it should be strong for 200bhp.

I think the head is the most difficult bit to get right - this may well go off to Angleworks to have BenR work some magic on it.

I'm confused right now - just need to chill for the rest of the evening.