MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!

[parrot]

Sorry, you're right of course.

The toothed washer goes on the pulsation damper first, then you feed the damper through the fuel banjo, then place a normal copper washer on the bottom and bolt it to the fuel rail.

That way fuel comes through the fuel line, up into the damper and then down the centre of the damper bolt and into the fuel rail.

[Nanaki]

Wow thanks that is completly helpful! Thank you guys. I think my ECU part number is 89661-12051 If Im not mistaken. I googled it and it seems to be correct for the Japanese 'Maped' Blue top. It is also the same one listed on Club4ag in the Japanese 16v ecu pin outs section.

Jondee you wouldnt be interested in selling your damper and seal if I am unable to find one would you?

Also would laking that seal/ a working damper cause the FPR not to have the fuel pumped from the fuel rail? or would that mean I would still need a new FPR? I tryed the Japanese one and the one off my GTS motor and both do the same.

***Update*** May not need the Gasket, Might have found something that may work will update later.

[jondee86]

Regarding the damper.... the problem I have seen is when someone
loses the toothed washer and just replaces it with some random copper
washer that is lying around the workshop. They will find a washer that is
a snug fit on the centre bolt (where the teeth touch) but it will be a bit
small on the outside diameter.

When this gets tightened up, it pushes the washer up into the groove
under the "head" of the bolt, and it becomes wedged there. Because
the banjo leaks, a second larger washer is added... the leak stops...
and then the engine either does not run, or starts and dies when the
throttle is opened. The small washer is blocking the flow of gas.

If you look at your damper and see a ring of copper at the top of the
bolt in the groove where the gas should enter the head, then you have
a washer jammed in there. If it is clear, then use a plain copper washer
that is big enough to seal on the outside edge, while providing at least
1 mm of clearance on the bolt. You will have to find a way to hold it
centred while you tighten the bolt... that is what the teeth are there for.

According to the manual, there should be a small black button (like a
rivet head) on the top of the "mushroom". When you have pressure in
the damper and the diaphragm lifts, this button should also lift up by
a millimetre or two.

If you get all this working and you have plenty of fuel flow/pressure
to the rail, and the engine still does not rev out, it might be time to
start looking at other possibilities

Cheers... jondee86

[parrot]

Jondee86 is right. Before taking that photo, I had to prise an old regular copper gasket out of the groove of this spare damper - not easy.

Don't reuse old copper gaskets, remember the fuel is under pressure. An old one may result in fuel squirting around a hot engine bay and a fire.

I can't believe that Toyota don't still sell them.

[jondee86]

:wink:

There ya go... maybe someone else has had the same problem and
swapped out the "faulty" damper.

Cheers... jondee86

[Nanaki]

I will look and see just to make sure.. Also I was told that maybe I have the vacuum line for the MAP sensor pluged in wrong. I ran it up to one of the two ports on top of the throttle body. it seems to let the car start and idle. And If im not mistaken If I move it back to one of the rear ports on the mannifold it wont really start up and idle. I was told that having the MAP sensor in front like that might be sending false readings to the ECU as the vacuum fluxs around when its revved up or something. .. Just a thought.

As for the rivit on the damper... I never saw that pop up... I think that now that I have one of those seals ( found one. ) then I may try the damper off my GTS motor again.. Its weird the ' Head ' Of the JDM damper was metal like the FPR but the one off the GTS motor was plastic.. Honestly looks like one of those funky safari hunting helmet/hat things.

[jondee86]

When you are checking for fuel by pulling hoses off, there should be
more than a trickle coming out !!! The pump should be capable of making
around 30 or 40 psi (2-3 Bar), and fuel should squirt out like water from
a garden hose

The FPR is there to make sure there is pressure in the rail, not to stop the
flow of fuel. When the engine is idling, I would guess that about 90% of
the fuel arriving at the rail is going back to the tank through the FPR.

The vacuum hose from the manifold to the FPR adjusts the rail pressure
according to manifold vacuum. If you don't have the hose connected, the
injectors will over-fuel at idle. If you are running an O2 sensor, maybe the
ECU can compensate... if not, it will run rich at idle, and improve as the
manifold pressure drops.

The MAP sensor needs to get the best quality vacuum signal possible, and
this is usually pulled from the middle of the manifold. I don't know how
the internal porting works at the throttle body, but I think you will be
better off putting the hose back on the OEM plug.

Cheers... jondee86

[Nanaki]

jondee86 Wrote:The MAP sensor needs to get the best quality vacuum signal possible, and
this is usually pulled from the middle of the manifold. I don't know how
the internal porting works at the throttle body, but I think you will be
better off putting the hose back on the OEM plug.

Cheers... jondee86

Hmm OEM plug? I dont know where this is supposed to be OEM wise I was guessing thats all.. Also... Im just wondering. Would the O2 sensor cause this problem?.. Cause the One that came on my Japanese motor was ruined and I put on the one from my GTS motor.. They do have different part numbers. Im wondering that maybe the O2 sensor could be giving false readings to the ECU telling it to do what its doing...

Also I tryed the GTS Damper and it still bogs when reving and no fuel being let out of the rail back to the tank. The Vac line for that is hooked to one of the three vac ports on the rear of the manifold Im running out of Idea's

[jondee86]

There is a black plastic plug in the side of the manifold. The MAP should
be hooked up to one of the three outlets on that plug.

All other ports on the manifold that don't have hoses
hooked up to them should be blocked off.

If you can get the motor to start and run, then you obviously have spark
and fuel. But if you don't have any fuel being returned to the tank, then
the chances are you don't have enough flow/pressure in the rail.

The pump needs to be able to maintain better than 30 psi in the rail at idle,
and around 40 psi at WOT, otherwise the injectors will be under-fueling.
Maybe you need to get hold of a pressure gauge and get some actual
measurements on what is happening at the rail ??

Cheers... jondee86

[Nanaki]

jondee86 Wrote:There is a black plastic plug in the side of the manifold. The MAP should
be hooked up to one of the three outlets on that plug.

All other ports on the manifold that don't have hoses
hooked up to them should be blocked off.
Cheers... jondee86

... Weird.. If I hook the MAP sensor to one of the three on the back of the Manifold the car will either not start or it will start up and die after about 10 or 20 seconds..