OST-026: "My White Hatch"

[oldeskewltoy]

Before and after.... All views are upside down....


manifold, port, bowls (#2) before any work is performed





manifold, port, bowls (#3) after sizing, before finishing - note the port roof taper is smooth from throttle body mount to both bowls





The port floors taper where it meets the manifold... before on top....



After(still some finishing work required) on the bottom. I made the port floors taper less severe by moving it back about double its stock distance from the manifold mounting edge.






Now, back to the ports of #2 and #3....



The purple line shows the original taper on the left, and on the right you can see the new taper is about twice the depth... but note the port floor, where it turns to go to the valve (green line) is the SAME. The yellow box outlines the amount of material removed from the front roof of the port. Yet still inside the Toyota intake manifold gasket



The manifold is now nearly finished




More to come.....

[oldeskewltoy]

from another forum Wrote:Neat pics, I don't think we went it to too much detail about head work though.

I'm still collecting parts for my build

Some people like to see... but as I alluded too, I like to see, and if I didn't make these posts... I seriously doubt I'd be as good as I am.



3 down... one to go



if you look carefully inside port 2, you can see where I adjusted the port roof for a more consistent taper.


Here is a close up before and after of port 3, this time instead of a 2 panel... a sliding gif... to show the work on port 3




and now port 4 in mid work...





More to come....

[robokill]

I thought the T3 adapter would have better fitment.

Good call on the ports though. But wouldn't it be easier to use a 20V engine instead of welding in parts to the head and rebuilding a complete intake plenum?

[oldeskewltoy]

robokill Wrote:I thought the T3 adapter would have better fitment.

My previous experience with a T3 adapter




solution... slotted bolt holes with jackscrews

robokill Wrote:Good call on the ports though. But wouldn't it be easier to use a 20V engine instead of welding in parts to the head and rebuilding a complete intake plenum?

20V has problems of its own... and besides it is easy enough to make a 16V, especially a smallport, make similar power on similar specs .


As far as welding and completely new custom manifold... I have yet to add any material to any head I've worked.

I understand that Hasslegren adds (welds in) extra metal into the area of the stock injector ports, I know Loynings has figured out a way to significantly raise the ports with out welding. In both of these cases this is for professional racing, and so INVE$MENT is part of every last horsepower.

The 4AGE is a GREAT example of INVE$MENT... when Toyota was running the series they needed 12,000 rpm to make "only" 240 hp. These days... they are making close to 270hp, and only twisting them to 10,000 rpm to do it! Now the investment to get to 270hp @ 10k was likely close to $1,000,000



Now back to work.... remember those short radius's - radii??




How about a bit closer...


#1...




#2...




#3...




#4...





More to come......

[oldeskewltoy]

The short radius's are done... and as can be assumed... so is the port roofs, and manifold...




I move on to the chambers, and exhaust side next week....

[oldeskewltoy]

from another forum Wrote:OST: I have a couple of inquiries relative to this entire thread? Specifically, 1.) how do you keep the set screws on the manifold from vibrating loose on a running engine?
2.) What is an approximate cost for you to duplicate a 16V head just like the one in this post?
3.) How many hours of labor does it require to duplicate if you do it.

This post and your pics are outstanding!! You are to be commended for your prowess as a head porter/developer.

1) Locktite 290



2) It depends... Anywhere from $1000 and up... price depends on many things... some excluding my porting work*

LIKE:

Who is supplying the smallport head, and ITB adapter? (smallport heads are tough to come-by recently...)

Is the head in basic usable condition? That means it has the cam caps w/ good journals, it has good valve guides, and good valve seats.

Do you want OEM valves, OEM back cut valves, or aftermarket valves?

You will need aftermarket valve springs to function w/ 9mm lift cams

Do you want Toyota, or aftermarket valve seals?



* - my current pricing for porting work on a 4AG 16V head -

$600 (minimum service) to do the 16 bowls/seats, taper the valve guides, deshroud and balancing chamber volume, exhaust port re-taper, and polishing.
$150 to blend the intake guide bosses and to re-taper port roof - largeport
$175 to blend intake guide bosses, blend port walls, and re-taper port roof - smallport
$100 for machining of the heads surface
$80 for cam journal deburring and polishing, and overall deburring
$80 for hand lapped valves
$60 for re-assembly
$60 to set valve clearances - your supplied camshaft, special order shims not included
$80 to adjust T3 smallport/largeport adapter
$140 to blend T3 ITB manifold for silvertop throttles
$220 to blend T3 ITB manifold for blacktop throttle

Loynings valve jobs - a few hundred to a few thousand


3) Since it isn't finished yet, the best I can give you is a ballpark time estimate - 50 to 60 hours.


Just a small detail for me... but so much easier on my client when it comes to assembly, and fitment... check out the injector port clearancing





More to come.....

[oldeskewltoy]

from another forum Wrote:

oldeskewltoy Wrote:

from another forum Wrote:..how do you keep the set screws on the manifold from vibrating loose on a running engine?

1) Locktite 290

We use about 20 different Loctite products in our aerospace assemblies. Callout for Loctite 242 seems more widely used in critical components.
.

So much to learn from OST builds.


I bow down to you sir m(_ _)m

NEVER bow to another.... you'll miss the performance

seriously... I've failed at SOOO many things in my life it isn't funny.. I eventually found something I'm good at... it only took 35 years for me to find it ... but thank you for the sentiment

I use the 290 for one reason... it is wicking.... (it seeps into the threads and then sets up) The 242, and other thread lockers don't have this capability. Why is wicking important to me... simple really... it allows for fine adjustment in the jackscrews, and once set, I don't have to remove them to apply thread locker...


Now as to how critical it is... it isn't that critical... for once the manifold is bolted tightly(14ft/#s) to the head the jack screws could (theoretically) come out and fall away, the manifold isn't going to move once tightened.




Now as to magic... watch these machining marks disappear.....


going....








gone!

More to come....

[oldeskewltoy]

More to come.... INDEED...

[oldeskewltoy]

#4 is basically finished... 1 down... 3 to go....






More to come.....

[robokill]

you live so far away :-) would loved to come see you work