Silver top low idle

[AlexFourTwenty]

So I’m a new member, I have a AE85 coupé with a 4age 20v silvertop transplant. Currently having some troubles with idling. It will drop so low it starts to lope and sometimes it stalls. Can this be a vac. leak or could it be carbon build up on my itb’s. Its pretty much stock, Just running straight pipe. Also I would like to add i believe it’s running rich because the gassy smell is horrendous. Makes my eyes burn if I’m not going at decent speed lol

[AlexFourTwenty]

So I found out it was actually the throttle cable. They did a hack job and I just needed to adjust it properly. But I am still concerned about it running super rich. I got an exhaust welded on today and it’s still smelling like straight gas. Note the o2 sensor is on there but it’s not connected.

[totta Crolla]

(10-14-2017 06:34 PM)AlexFourTwenty Wrote:  Note the o2 sensor is on there but it’s not connected.

Do you think it's there for show ?

[AlexFourTwenty]

(10-14-2017 06:58 PM)totta Crolla Wrote:  

(10-14-2017 06:34 PM)AlexFourTwenty Wrote:  Note the o2 sensor is on there but it’s not connected.

Do you think it's there for show ?

The peeps that did the swap are savages. I had to redo a lot of wiring because every now and then it would smell of burning cables. Surprised it hasn’t caught fire    

[Bean]

Considering I spot an MAF and the 20V runs on MAP normally - do you have a 20V ECU?

[AlexFourTwenty]

(10-15-2017 09:43 AM)Bean Wrote:  Considering I spot an MAF and the 20V runs on MAP normally - do you have a 20V ECU?

Yes I have a 20v st ecu

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I got the exhaust welded up and I installed a pan muffler now it’s super quiet (now I’m scared the piping they used is too small in diameter) I think it’s like 1.25 or something, whatever the stock headers and mid pipe are for a 20v Engine.. Gas smell slightly went away but I can tell it’s still running hella rich.

[jdm86gtz]

First up you should check for vacuum leaks between the AFM and the head, spraying carb cleaner can help narrow down suspect areas as it will affect the running RPM.

Did you have to pull the throttle cable tight to bring the idle up? You might have a problem with the ISCV, its located (in stock form) under No.4 throttle body. You might have a dirty internal valve or a wiring issue to the valve control motor, with no throttle cable and the engine up to running temperature the idle should be steady at around 850RPM
Random photo of ISCV from Google:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/A...CF7352.jpg

Any sign that the AFM was tampered with? The black plastic cover can be forceably removed to access the internal mechanism and then clocked to alter fuel delivery. This isn't really advised though.
Did you find the O2 connector on the wiring loom?
Also do a diagnostic check by shorting pins TE1 and E1 in the diagnosis box (check the lid for pin location) and count the dash engine check light flashes.
Random picture from Google of the ecu error codes:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v207/k...Page3a.jpg

What size is the return pipe from the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel tank? OEM size with EFI is 7mm OD pipe.

[AlexFourTwenty]

(10-16-2017 06:59 PM)jdm86gtz Wrote:  First up you should check for vacuum leaks between the AFM and the head, spraying carb cleaner can help narrow down suspect areas as it will affect the running RPM.

Did you have to pull the throttle cable tight to bring the idle up? You might have a problem with the ISCV, its located (in stock form) under No.4 throttle body. You might have a dirty internal valve or a wiring issue to the valve control motor, with no throttle cable and the engine up to running temperature the idle should be steady at around 850RPM
Random photo of ISCV from Google:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/A...CF7352.jpg

Any sign that the AFM was tampered with? The black plastic cover can be forceably removed to access the internal mechanism and then clocked to alter fuel delivery. This isn't really advised though.
Did you find the O2 connector on the wiring loom?
Also do a diagnostic check by shorting pins TE1 and E1 in the diagnosis box (check the lid for pin location) and count the dash engine check light flashes.
Random picture from Google of the ecu error codes:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v207/k...Page3a.jpg

What size is the return pipe from the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel tank? OEM size with EFI is 7mm OD pipe.

ill check for vacuum leaks and I’ll see if I can clean the iscv. I must say I did notice that it looks like they tampered with the maf on the square plastic cover. O2 sensor is on but wires are cut off. I’ll check the fuel pressure pipe and I’ll get back to you. About the maf. If they fucked With it how do I check if it’s working correctly.

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I don’t know if that has anything to do with it but after a couple days now I got this problem that it stumbles and jerks on light throttle even when it’s in neutral if I step on the throttle lightly there’s a certain rpm (cluster not functioning) where it just cuts and goes back up cuts and goes back up. Yet when I full throttle it goes away. Only when light throttle is applied will it jerk. Almost as it it was an ignition cut.