Which is the best setup for grip??

[Apolan]

why avoid obx? i was thinking of getting tht header of theirs.. is it no good?

[jamiemirror]

They make acceptable headers (well, you need at least redrilling but ...).
I have direct impressions from Civic OBX LSD here, car tends to turn right-side when acceleration. Ghost in the LSD maybe

[NickBW]

NoHachi Wrote:

jamiemirror Wrote:Tires, suspension, driver !

I would change that to:
driver = 60%
tires = 30%
Everything else = 10% (doesn't matter much where you spend the money).

Smartest thing is to spend the money according to that list too....60% into driving events/schools etc, 30% tire budget, maybe add pads and other expendables, 10% spent on all the issues that crop up...power, suspension etc..

And torsen diffs don't really offer any advantages...If you get one wheel into the air somehow its back to open diff mode.. Difficult to find and expensive too, so dont spend much time looking for one.

good advice.
Also, a good alignment and brake pads should be up there as well. All new suspension bushings is another good path to take.
I would avoid being a rush to buy a bunch of expensive suspension units that are easily recommended with out reason or specifics. Hold up on that until you know what it is you want changed and by how much. Just throwing on random suspesnion parts with out an understanding of how it all works together is a sure fire way to making your car handle like crap.(which laughably is more often then not the case among 'tuner street cars' *giggles*)

[Mux213]

On NickBW's note,

Also don't do everything at once. Do one thing at a time, try and see what the difference is and evaluate if you're headed into the direction you want to go. Something that another person recommends because its suits his desires may be totally the wrong thing for you even if there is nothing wrong with his advise itself.

There is nothing worse then spending a couple of thousand euros tuning your car just to find out you got something you don't like..

[speed-inc]

As you have seen so far there are a lot of good points mentioned so far and in the end you still have to decide for your self what you want. Everybody is different in taste, drivestyle and...
So just go on track and see which areas you want to improve on the car.
Tracktime will show the weak spots probably quite fast.

Just go on track whenever you can, because not only the car needs work, also your drivestyle.

This is the order I would go today, also with money as a factor:

-Take everything out what you do not really need
-Fit a decent seat, steering wheel if you want to
-When your tyres are worn out, buy some good ones
(Whenever something has to be changed, try to upgrade. Aftermarket parts are most the time not really more expensive than oem ones)
-Get lowering springs
-Get bushes
-Get stabilizers
-Do something about the brakes (pads, discs, lines or full kit)
-Strutbars front and rear
-Get dampers or complete suspension
-Get a lateral rod to get rear axle back in line
-Get a better LSD

After all this you can go all out on suspension parts like tension rods, links.... and a cage.
You can also start to add lightweight bodyparts carbon or FRP. Lexan glass will also help to reduce weight.

All this is just for the handling department.

Concerning the engine and drivetrain I divide it by cost.

No to very little budget and some time:
-Take off the engine cooling fan and mount an electric one from the junkyard. Various will fit, just check the size.
-Take off AC if there

Low budget:
-Open Air filter kit or selfmade
-Quikshift

Mid budget:
-Header
-Final gear
-Fuel pressure regulator
-Adjustable cam gears
-Clutch and flywheel (you can also take some wheight off the original flywheel)

High budget:
-Cams
-Headwork
-Pistons
-Other transmission gearing
-Change engine
-Programmable ECU

Endless budget:
-Get a Toda Kit
-Send your engine or car to Techno Pro Spirit or some other good Tuner in Japan

Also check on the forum for used parts. You will find some bargains once in a while.
On this car you can do a lot of stuff yourself if you can build stuf from IKEA. :wink:
This of course will depend on your knowledge, but you can always ask.

So much about my ideas.
This is no general route, just what I think about it. And as mentioned before everybody will do this differently.
Most important will be:
HAVE FUN and DRIVE SAVE

Cheers

[Sgonzalez]

THANKS TO ALL!!!!!


WELL I HAVE SOME ISSUES SINCE MY CAR IS NOT COMP STOCK,

THAT’S WHY I NEED ADVICE IN SUSPENSION AND SECURITY


http://www.aeu86.org/viewtopic/hi-everyo...highlight=

[oldeskewltoy]

NoHachi Wrote:

jamiemirror Wrote:Tires, suspension, driver !

I would change that to:
driver = 60%
tires = 30%
Everything else = 10% (doesn't matter much where you spend the money).

Hmmmm, I agree with the order.... not so the percentages....
Driver = 50%
Tires = 20%
suspension = 20%
everything else = 10%

I just believe correct suspension geometry, and function makes up for more than part of 10% of everything else......


Back to the original poster.... Grip set up is up to the driver. From considerable research I've found that rate isn't as important as RATIO. Ratio from front to back that is.... Many grip based AE86s use a front to rear ratio of between 3 to 2 or 2 to 1. For example a 8kg/mm front spring mated to a 5.3 kg/mm rear spring would give you a frt to rear spring ratio of 3 to 2. Obviously using a bit of math... a 2 to 1 ratio would use a 4.0 rear spring ratio. The ratio usually depends on 2 things... power and drivers comfort.

Drift set ups(closer to 4 to 3 or even 1 to 1) can be used in grip racing, but you have to be careful of over rotation. In most racing some oversteer is usually the fastest way around the track, but not all drivers are comfortable with a lot of oversteer as speeds increase.

Added power can compensate for a nose heavy car(as ratio moves to 2 to 1), but power and an AE86 are not always synonymous.... BUTTT if I read further you have a boosted 20V so power isn't an issue!

The easiest, quickest suspension upgrades for your car(based on the photos.....) I'd say a full TRD bushing kit, and a GReddy S-Type suspension package. Springs are bit rear biased, but overall it is the easiest, most complete set up on the market for the AE86.

There are other forums... a few have reviews and suggestions when using the GReddy kit, it will give you an idea of where to start with suspension tuning......

OH... AGAIN...DON'T forget the tires! Put good tires on it, don't dump 1500-2000 Euros into the suspension and then only 150 Euros into the tires.....

[IBMFD3S]

Quote:WHICH IS THE BEST SETUP FOR GRIP??

none (to my opinion)

you must develop and get used to your setup with your settings: you must like the handling and the feeling, experiment with strutbars, experiment with swaybars, experiment with tirepressure, experiment with camber. and rimsize... 13", 14", 15", 16" or 17" rims?
13" will tell you: we are going off in a second or two, behave!!! warning you!
17" will tell you: everything ok, everything ok, everyt ... i quit.
185 wide all around? or 185 front 195 back? maybe 195 front and 225 in the back?
furthermore, every driver is different, probably nobody can drive your times with your car and you can't drive their times with their car.

so i think it's all personal, you must be able to feel, listen and talk to your car. you two must become one and if one isn't feeling well...
'feel' how he/she moves, turns, glides, changes his/her ballast.
'listen' to the engine, the tires and the laptimes.
'talk' with steering in different ways and the pedals on different times.

just my opinion

[NoHachi]

@Oldskewltoy:
Well..those factors are just from my own experience.
50% driver is just way to little. I ran up to 20 second faster laptimes in our 100hp, crap suspensioned heavy ass volo compared to some people in their fully tuned impreza STi's. The difference between a poor and very good driver (not me) is even bigger..probably up to a minute on a 2 minute course. So driver influence is HUGE, not a mere 50%

Tip I heard on the miata forums: If the car is not performing the way it should: first tighten the nut behind the wheel

If you then look at the rest of the performance envelope: Tires will help you corner everywhere, help your braking and help you put down power. (brake pads -at least for road racing - belong right alongside them...not for autoX though). On slicks the volvo keeps up with much better handling cars. After the driver, its the single largest influence.

A decent suspension setup only helps you in the max.G corners....a lot smaller difference then the tires make. This is assuming the presence of a normal stock suspension setup to begin with. After the car is on slicks, it doesn't matter much what you add..a bit of power, better suspension..anything will lower your laptimes, but nothing close to the drop you saw when mounting a racing driver (lol) or slicks. They'll add funfactor though.

Obviously a working car helps...so if your starting point is a non working car (25 year old shocks, leaking engine etc), obviously that needs sorting first.

[Jan Pedersen]

He didn't ask about the driver - thats another issue... He just wanted to know how to make the car better so we have to assume that his driving skills are ok imo... I'm not saying that your wrong, though

If your shocks aren't blown I would start off with some new bushes OEM, TRD, prothane or whatever. Slap on some good tires and see what you need to upgrade next