cams cams cams

[megabob]

Hi Guys,

Yes its another cam discussion

I have a stock 4AGE with a slightly skimmed head running Mikuni PHH44 carbs and Janspeed 4-1 manifold with full Janspeed exhaust system.
Shes being used as a weekend car so not a daily drive, so i could stand to loose a little low end torque/power.

I've been looking at the following:
- Kent cams, 282 Deg Inlet/Exhaust
http://www.kentcams.com/product-details/...mpetition/
- Piper cams, 288 Deg Inlet/Exhaust
http://www.pipercams.co.uk/pipercams/www...OY16VBP285
- Cat cams, 282 Deg Inlet/275 Exhaust
http://www.catcams.co.uk/acatalog/7105140.pdf

My 86 was dyno'ed at 127HP and my goal is about 140HP, nothing too crazy, don't wanna spoil the balance.

If anyone knows which would be best or any alternatives then all info is appreciated

[d3nso]

What cam setup are you running at the time, stock cams?
140HP can made with cams in the 264° range, 282° or 288° sounds more like 150HP+

[superli]

this catcams setup can do the job : http://www.catcams.com/products/camshaft...TUP_id=828

look at this post you will see makkuro he reached your goal : http://www.aeu86.org/viewtopic/my-86-dyn...13/t/13629

[megabob]

d3nso - Yeah stock cams at the mo

superli - Thanks for the link looks like my goal is a little easier than i thought

Looks like I'm going higher than i need to I'll look into something a little milder.

Cheers guys

[jondee86]

superli Wrote:look at this post you will see makkuro he reached your goal.

As oldeskewltoy will tell you... increased cam duration will require
raised compression to get the best out of the cams (rule of thumb ).
Note that makkuro cut the head and used a thin metal head gasket
when re-building his engine.

He got 134 rwhp (and wheel hp is the only accurate measure of hp). So
if you already have 127 rwhp, a set of cams should be all you need. But
if that 127 hp is engine hp back-calculated from wheel hp, then it will take
more than a set of cams. Pedantic... yes There is a lot of confusion
caused by people "guessing" engine power, based on wheel hp dynometer
measurements, and it pays to be crystal clear when seeking advice.

WHEEL HP IS THE ONLY VALID FIGURE... ALL ELSE IS BS!!!

Unless you are using an engine dyno of course

Cheers... jondee86

[NoHachi]

Wheel-hp will vary as much as 20% between dyno's and is as useless as engine hp. Sometimes more (see e.g. Mahle dyno's or dynojet dynopac)

[gon]

NoHachi Wrote:Wheel-hp will vary as much as 20% between dyno's and is as useless as engine hp. Sometimes more (see e.g. Mahle dyno's or dynojet dynopac)

agree
Wheel-hp will vary with the grip on your tyres, the pressure on your tyres, the oil on your gearbox,etc etc ... you are better off with the calculated HP because on the coast down the dyno calculates the losses of your tyres/transmission/etc.

Unless we are talking about hub dynos (the ones you remove the alloys and bolt the hub on the dyno)

PS: I have some cams to sell (TODA 288 8.5 IN and HKS 272 8.1 EX) they gave me 161bhp with throttle bodies and a skimmed head and made a very nice round engine. Drop me a PM if interested

[jondee86]

NoHachi Wrote:Wheel-hp will vary as much as 20% between dyno's and is as useless as
engine hp. Sometimes more (see e.g. Mahle dyno's or dynojet dynopac)

Yes, understood. But providing you use the same dyno each time, you
should be able to measure any change (+/-) due to modifications you have
been making. I can't think of any other reason for using a dyno

And personally, I would never use an inertia dyno when there was a hub
dyno available. [plug]And being designed and built in NZ means Dynapak hub
dynos are used by all our top tuners.[/plug]

Cheers... jondee86

[jondee86]

gon Wrote:... on the coast down the dyno calculates the losses of your
tyres/transmission/etc.

The problem with using the coast down figure for transmission loss, is that
it does not take account of the power lost to friction when the power train
is fully loaded at WOT. The hypoid bevel differential is said to absorb from
5 to 10% of transmitted power, and obviously the power loss will be much
greater at WOT than it is at coast down with the clutch disengaged.

Idealy, power should be measured at constant rpm, to eliminate the
power lost in overcoming the inertia of the rotating parts of the drivetrain
(wheels and tyres, driveshaft etc).

However, providing you use the same dyno for each run, and try and
keep all the other variables (temperature, wheels, tyres etc) the same,
the difference between wheel hp from run to run will be a useful readout.

Who are you really fooling if you shop around to find the highest reading
dyno, just so you can "make" an extra 5 or 10 hp ???

Cheers... jondee86

[harkes]

Hi

As mentioned you dont need nearly as aggressive cams to make ~140 crank-hp (must be since your std setup delivers 127).
My previous engine made 150hp with 256 Cat-cams and my current make 189 with 290 Kent-cams. Measured on the same dyno